Fruit acids for acne

Scientists discovered how fruit acids act on the skin only in the mid-1990s. What is the principle of their action and why acid formulas are so loved by manufacturers and users of cosmetics - we invite you to find out right now.

1. What are fruit acids
2. Types of fruit acids
3. Application of AHA acids
4. The effect of fruit acids on the skin
5. Restrictions on use
6. Cosmetics review

What are fruit acids

Fruit acids are called hydroxyl, and the scientific world classifies most of them as alpha hydroxy acids. You've probably seen the abbreviation AHA on product packaging - that's what hydroxy acids are.

Compared to harsher acids, such as salicylic or carbolic acids, fruit acids act more gently. They dissolve more easily in water, but do not destroy, but weaken the structural bonds between the cells of the epidermis. As a result of using products with fruit acids, the skin will become noticeably softer and smoother.

Fruit acids are included in peelings, tonics, serums, creams and masks © iStock

Types of fruit acids

Let's list the most popular types of AHA acids in the beauty industry.

Contained in citrus fruits, as well as other sour-tasting fruits and berries:

It is considered one of the most effective because it has additional properties.

Lactic acid is also an AHA acid © iStock

It is formed during lactic acid fermentation and is present in sour milk and curdled milk. Provides the softest peeling effect. The menu of many spas includes so-called “milk peeling” based on this substance. Lactic acid has a super-delicate effect on the epidermis and is suitable even for those with sensitive skin.

Contained in green grapes and sugar cane. The main task of glycolic acid is to accelerate the generation of new cells and rid the skin surface of old ones, which give the face an earthy tint.

Contained not only in apples, but also in apricots, cherries, and cherries. In the world of cosmetics, malic acid is valued for its ability to suppress inflammatory reactions and protect the skin from free radicals.

Malic acid is contained not only in apples, but also in cherries, cherries, and apricots © iStock

Application of AHA acids

Fruit acids destroy intercellular connections, remove so-called old cells and promote the process of cell division. In addition, they have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects.

Most often, fruit acids are found in cleansing and exfoliating products - toners, peels, lotions and masks. They are effective in combating acne, pigmentation, and age-related changes.

Remember: no matter how mild the acids are, they increase skin sensitivity and make it more vulnerable to sun damage. Therefore, in the summer, it is better to limit the use of products based on AHA acids.

The effect of fruit acids on the skin

When fruit acids come into contact with the skin, they primarily act on dead skin cells. It is better to start working on skin relief with the mildest acids. Otherwise, there is a risk of irritation, and subsequently a post-inflammatory spot, especially on unprepared, dehydrated skin or skin with a damaged lipid barrier.

Citric acid is considered the most effective © iStock

Products with fruit acids:

exfoliating peels, lotions, tonics;

brightening and exfoliating masks;

brightening serums and concentrates;

skin firming and anti-aging creams.

Restrictions on use

Before you start using cosmetics containing fruit acids, consult a cosmetologist or dermatologist. Depending on what problem you want to solve, you may need acids in different concentrations and dosages.

After using a product with fruit acids, apply a cream or foundation with a sunscreen if you do not want to get burned or cause hyperpigmentation.

Cosmetics review

With daily use, it accelerates the renewal of epidermal cells. Reduces age spots, makes skin smooth and soft.

Today, every beauty salon offers a range of services involving fruit acids: peelings, meso-cocktails, anti-aging and whitening masks, etc. It is difficult to find a cosmetic brand that does not use these unique substances in its products. They are sold in pharmacies and online stores, and the demand for them is constantly growing. What is the reason for this demand?

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What it is?

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In sources, fruit acids are most often designated by the abbreviation AHA (stands for “alpha hydroxy acids” - alpha hydroxy acids). They belong to the class of organic, i.e. those contained in natural plant extracts (usually fruits and berries). In the modern beauty industry, they are considered one of the best anti-aging and peeling products for the face. In cosmetology they are also called beauty elixirs.

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The most common are:

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1. benzoin (natural source - dew incense, as well as lingonberries, cranberries);
2. wine, tartar, pyruvic (grapes, green apples, cherries, tangerines, oranges);
3. glycolic (sugar cane, grapes);
4. lemon (citrus);
5. almond (almond);
6. dairy (dairy products, blueberries, tomatoes);
7. formic (nettle, pine needles);
8. salicylic acid (the main source is willow tree bark, but it is also found in prunes, raisins, raspberries, strawberries);
9. vinegar (grapes);
10. ferulic (apples, natural coffee beans);
11. oxalic (rhubarb, spinach);
12. apple (apples, tomatoes).

Each of the fruit acids has its own specific effect on the skin, but they also have common properties, which allows you to prepare real beauty elixirs - cocktails - from them. They are the basis of salon peeling and rejuvenation procedures, as well as most branded cosmetics.

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Action

Why are fruit acids so beneficial for facial skin? They have a milder effect on the epidermis and do not accumulate in tissues, which means that the risk of intoxication is minimal.

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All of them have the following cosmetic properties:

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1. make the skin smooth, smooth and silky;
2. rejuvenate;
3. resolve scars, scars, stretch marks;
4. promote the regeneration of damaged tissues;
5. stimulate the synthesis of elastin fibers, hyaluronic acid and collagen;
6. tone;
7. moisturize;
8. refreshes complexion;
9. effectively exfoliate the stratum corneum of the epithelium, which allows their use in all types of peeling;

In addition, each fruit acid has a particular property that is most pronounced. This allows you to use one or another of them to solve a specific cosmetological problem:

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1. benzoin, lemon, oxalic - whitening from pigmentation;
2. wine, tartar - moisturizing;
3. glycolic - deep cleansing;
4. almond - exfoliation;
5. dairy - rejuvenation;
6. formic, salicylic - anti-inflammatory effect, getting rid of acne and rashes;
7. pyruvic acid - mild peeling, sebum-regulating properties;
8. vinegar - tissue regeneration;
9. ferulic - rejuvenation;
10. apple – gentle peeling.

The higher the concentration of alpha hydroxy acids in the cocktail, the brighter the effect will be. But at the same time, the risk of allergic reactions, irritation and even thermal burns also increases. Do not forget that at their core these are acids with all the ensuing consequences. Therefore, experts strongly recommend carrying out any cosmetic procedures with them exclusively in salons.

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At home, you can only safely use cosmetics with them, but peelings and masks can be harmful if used in the wrong dosage.

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Salon treatments

If you want to test on your own skin how effective fruit acids are for the face, go to a cosmetologist. After examining and identifying problems, the salon will offer you a whole range of services to solve them.

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The most popular and effective salon procedure is peeling with fruit acids. Moreover, this can be both superficial and deep cleaning:

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1. weakly concentrated solutions (up to 30%) renew only the upper layer of the epidermis, exfoliate horny particles, accelerate cell regeneration, moisturize, rejuvenate, improve the texture and complexion - such cleansing can be done at least every week;
2. medium-concentrated solutions (up to 50%) act more deeply, toning, smoothing wrinkles, eliminating age spots, starting regeneration processes at the cellular level - with their help peeling can be done only 3-4 times a year;
3. highly concentrated solutions (up to 70%) are so powerful in their effect that they are used to eliminate keloid scars, scars, stretch marks - they are usually used once, to solve a specific cosmetic problem.

Glycolic peeling for rejuvenation from Mesoestetic with different concentrations of solution

Professionals rarely use solutions with a concentration below 20%, since this indicator determines their effectiveness. For home use, you can try weak ten percent emulsions so as not to harm the skin. If peeling products contain less than 5% fruit acids, it is unlikely that they will achieve a good cleansing effect.

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Another salon procedure that involves fruit acids is the subcutaneous administration of meso-cocktails. As a rule, the main active ingredient in them is the famous hyaluronic acid. It has pronounced rejuvenating properties. But AHA acids (most often glycolic and pyruvic) are often used as auxiliary components. Acting from the inside, they significantly increase the effectiveness of mesotherapy. Skin elasticity and slowdown of aging processes at the cellular level are guaranteed.

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Salons most often use the following branded lines of meso-cocktails with fruit acids, such as:

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1. Sakura (Japan) - for different age groups, starting from 35 years;
2. Dermaheal SR, Dark Circle Solution, M. Booster Face (South Korea) - for solving a variety of cosmetic problems;
3. Mesoderm (Spain) - this brand is available in almost every salon;
4. Skinasil (Russia) is a budget option for mesotherapy.

Despite the high effectiveness of peelings and mesotherapy, you need to be careful with them; these are very powerful procedures. They are carried out exclusively by specialists and are not allowed for everyone. They have quite a lot of contraindications:

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1. allergy to acids;
2. pregnancy;
3. hemophilia;
4. stones;
5. neoplasms on the face;
6. exacerbation of any inflammatory processes and chronic diseases;
7. taking powerful medications (especially antibiotics and anticoagulants);
8. cardiovascular pathologies;
9. severe tan, burns on the face;
10. weak immunity.

Due to the increased risk of side effects (in case of non-compliance with contraindications or incorrect concentration), it is better to start your acquaintance with acids with professional masks that contain them. Their range in salons is always quite wide - anti-aging, whitening, peeling, etc. They act more gently and rarely cause rejection.

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Rating of branded cosmetics

Another option for safe introduction to fruit acids is regular cosmetics containing them, which can be purchased at any store. Surely your favorite brand has a line of products based specifically on their peeling or anti-aging effects.

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Branded cosmetics with fruit acids

A small rating will guide you in prices and assortment:

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1. Fruit Peel Cream Mask is a cleansing cream mask. Janssen Cosmetics (Germany). $71.2.
2. Regenerative + AHA Face Cream - regenerating cream. Argan Treasures (Greece). $29.
3. AHA Facial Cleansing Emulsion is a cleansing cream emulsion. Tapuach (Israel). $27.6.
4. Tone Up Milk Peel - milk with a peeling effect. Tony Moly (South Korea). $25.2.
5. Face Lotion Alpha Complex - lotion. Holy Land (Israel). $24.4.
6. AHA Cream Gel is a cream-gel from the Alodem series (especially for sensitive and couperose skin). Anna Lotan (Israel). $22.9.
7. Aha Wash Cleansing - foam scrub. BCL (Japan). $21.9.
8. Aqua Peeling AHA Toner is a peeling tonic. A'Pieu (South Korea). $14.8.
9. Aha Fruit Gel is a cleansing gel. Arabia Professional (Russia). $12.
10. Cleansing mask for all skin types with papaya extract. Eva Esthetic (Russia). $3.8.

As can be seen from the rating, fruit acids are actively used in cosmetics in both the mass and luxury segments. Moreover, the choice of products is also very wide: from makeup remover milk to cream masks for regular care. Most of the products presented can be purchased at pharmacies.

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Features of application

If you want to include fruit acids in your regular skin care, you should familiarize yourself with the rules for their use. Handling them carefully will avoid unpleasant consequences and achieve maximum effect.

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1. Consult with a cosmetologist: is it really necessary for you to use such powerful active substances at home and what products are best to choose for this.
2. It is better to purchase them at a pharmacy rather than ordering them from intermediaries or online.
3. The best option is to use a 10% solution.
4. The acid is selected depending on the problem at hand (for whitening freckles - citric, for gentle peeling - almond, etc.).
5. After purchasing the product, it is necessary to conduct a test for allergies. A small amount of liquid is applied to the wrist and washed off after 15 minutes. It is better to track the results throughout the day.
6. Before applying to the face, do not use scrubs or any other cleansers. You just need to wash your face and remove any remaining makeup.
7. Metal utensils should not be used to prepare the composition.
8. Duration of action - start with 3 minutes, then (if there are no unpleasant sensations), each time extend by the same amount. Maximum - 15 min.
9. In case of severe itching or burning, immediately remove the composition from the face. Rinse off with cool water only.
10. After this, be sure to apply a soothing or nourishing cream.
11. Time: an hour before bedtime, in the cold season. In summer, when the sun is active, such procedures are contraindicated.
12. Frequency: once every 2 weeks.

Recommended compositions for home peeling with fruit acids: rejuvenating cream mask from Cora, whitening peeling with AHA 8% from Premium, peeling gel for oily and problem skin Reval Peel from Holy Land.

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Recommended products for home peeling with fruit acids

If you follow these recommendations, the risk of side effects and complications after self-administration of fruit acids is significantly reduced (but not eliminated).

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Recipes

If you are afraid to start with powerful pharmaceutical concentrates, you can always do a gentle, but also quite effective acid peeling using fruit cleansing masks.

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1. Wine

Without peeling, cut the ripe orange into large pieces and grind in a blender directly with the zest. Add a little oatmeal or wheat flour for thickness.

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1. Glycolic

Grind green grapes with seeds in a blender, mix with dry milk to the desired consistency.

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1. Lemon

Grind lemon (1 pc.) together with zest in a blender, add egg white, 50 grams of chopped walnuts. Bring to the desired consistency with oatmeal.

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1. Almond

Mix chopped almonds (50 g) with low-fat sour cream / cream, beat until thick.

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1. Dairy

Mix blueberry puree with oatmeal in equal proportions.

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1. Sorrel

Mix rhubarb puree (2 tablespoons) with sour cream (50 ml), add egg white and a little lemon juice (10 ml).

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1. Apple

Tomato and apple puree are mixed in equal quantities. At the same time, both products are not peeled or seeded.

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Fruit acids are the present and future of the modern beauty industry. Their naturalness and effectiveness are clear advantages over similar chemical developments. With their help, you can solve a variety of cosmetic problems, and for very little money (when compared with plastic surgery). So if you have any serious defects on your face, you should take a closer look at these active substances.

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Firstly, there is absolutely no need to be afraid of serums, creams and lotions that contain acids for home use. But! They should be selected after a conversation with a cosmetologist or at least a consultant, so that there are no surprises. Secondly, such products are more effective than their acid-free friends. Thirdly, we asked an expert to tell us which acids help remove acne and which help wrinkles. And, based on these comments, we collected the top 11 best funds.

Cosmo recommends

Vasilyeva Natalya Viktorovna, leading dermatologist-cosmetologist in the cosmetology department, doctor of the highest category at the Doktorplastic clinic: “Since ancient times, acids have been an integral part of beauty recipes used by women in the fight for youth and beauty of the skin. The plot from the now classic film “Moscow Doesn’t Believe in Tears” immediately comes to mind when one of the main characters appears on the screen with a strawberry mask on her face. A typical example of the positive effects of fruit acids on the skin. When acid is applied to the skin, we receive a chemical burn to a greater or lesser extent. Any damage to the skin helps to activate regenerative processes. The effect of the vast majority of peelings is based on this. The degree of damage depends on three main characteristics: the properties of the acid itself, its concentration in the solution and the acidity index (pH). Thus, the higher the concentration and the more the pH is shifted to the acidic side, the more aggressive the effect on the skin we get. The choice of acid or complex of acids depends on the goal and task that we set. There are no acids for young or mature skin, but there are problems that worry mainly young girls (acne), while others concern older women (wrinkles).

For example, AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) - glycolic, pyruvic, phytic, mandelic and other acids - are widely used in cosmetology. They promote lightening, restoration of the hydrolipid balance of the skin, accelerate its regeneration, stimulate the production of collagen and elastin (this leads to increased turgor), reduce the number and depth of fine wrinkles and folds, improve the aesthetic appearance of atrophic post-acne scars, regulate the process of sebum secretion and have an antioxidant effect. Quite versatile AHA acids that can do not everything, but a lot!

If you need hydration, it’s hard to find anything better than hyaluronic acid. But to solve acne problems, salicylic acid is used, which effectively exfoliates the stratum corneum and has antibacterial, antifungal and anti-inflammatory effects. Retinol is used as a regulator of the process of cell keratinization and an antioxidant. In addition, it promotes fiber synthesis and enhances the effect of other active components. These properties can also be used to solve aging problems.

Let's summarize: you shouldn't be afraid of care products with acids, you need to trust them. And then they will return youth, beauty, and health to your face.”

One of the best anti-aging concentrated serums with glycolic acid, which is suitable for all skin types. It can and should be used constantly. It simultaneously gently renews, regenerates and moisturizes the skin.

Let's start with the fact that SkinCeuticals is a pharmaceutical brand, which means that your skin is in good hands. Now for some scientific language: Hydrating B5 Gel contains a very high concentration of sodium hyaluronate, the only form of hyaluronic acid used by dermatologists in aesthetic procedures such as filler injections. Its ultra-pure formula, enriched with vitamin B5, instantly hydrates skin, providing it with the nutrients it needs to maintain youth and beauty. And yes, both women and men can use this gel!

Another SkinCeuticals product we couldn't help but mention. C E Ferulic serum contains a revolutionary (not otherwise!) combination of antioxidants (L-ascorbic acid, alpha-tocopherol and ferulic acid). This trinity prevents premature aging, improves protective properties against UV and IRA radiation, and also corrects superficial and deep wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, stimulates collagen synthesis, and increases skin firmness and elasticity. Plus, it helps the skin recover as soon as possible after invasive procedures, for example, so-called beauty injections.

This product is suitable for both those who have just developed wrinkles and those who have been struggling with them for a long time. This serum moisturizes, protects against aggressive environmental factors, improves skin structure and slows down the aging process. All this dirty work is done by a powerful composition in which you will find 5% retinol, vitamins C and E, as well as a complex of ceramides, panthenol, allantoin and minerals.

The basis of the Clarins White Plus serum is an extract of the fruits and seeds of the Barbados cherry, which expertly erases age spots, evens out the complexion, brightens the skin tone and gives it a healthy glow. The only point: this product does not work on its own, but only in combination with day and night cream, but it is applied before them.

What's good about this serum?! Yes, because it contains vitamin B5, as well as two types of pure (!) hyaluronic acid, which provide intense hydration to the skin, increase its tone, elasticity, density, firmness and, as a result, reduce the depth and size of wrinkles. In principle, Hyalu B5 will help quickly remove traces of lack of sleep and fatigue.

The texture of this serum is incredibly delicate, so we do not advise you to deny yourself the pleasure of applying it. The White Queen plays a major role in a high concentration of salicylic acid, which is obtained from an extract of meadowsweet, known for its snow-white flowers. As you may have guessed, this product will help make your skin tone more even, removing pigment spots, and restore smoothness and radiance.

If you don’t take into account that this smoothie cream (the name itself sounds very tasty, but you can’t eat it!) contains hyaluronic acid, it can be called natural. Since it consists of 61% tangerine peel extract, mango seed oil and other fruits. Citrus Brightening Cream has a black belt in the fight against pigmentation, as it suppresses the formation of melanin, and it also has no equal if you need to revitalize dull, gray skin, giving it radiance and brightness. Despite its natural composition, girls even with sensitive skin can use this product - there will be no allergies!

Pure Arctic spring water, cloudberry essence, vitamin C and two types of hyaluronic acid - all these components guard the beauty of your skin. After the first use, you will notice that the skin has become moisturized and has a radiance, like after a week of relaxation at the sea.

If you need to thoroughly cleanse your skin, and at the same time remove pigment spots that appeared after tanning, pregnancy or hormonal disorders, slow down the process of wrinkles and regulate the functioning of the sebaceous glands, then you can’t find a better night peeling Lotion Lite 10 from GlySkinCare! It contains 10% glycolic acid, which copes with all these tasks perfectly. But be careful! This is quite a powerful product, so during your first use, watch your skin reaction for two hours. If everything is ok, then you can safely leave him to work on the night shift while you sleep.

Like all CeraVe brand products, Moisturizing Cream contains a unique complex of three ceramides obtained from natural sources, and hyaluronic acid has also been added to the team. As a result, this cream provides long-lasting hydration (it’s definitely enough for 24 hours!), restoration and strengthening of the protective skin barrier. By the way, this is the No. 1 moisturizer recommended by US dermatologists. We have no more questions - we just want it! Better yet, give me two!