Chemical peeling with fruit acids

Nowadays, peeling with fruit acids is perhaps the most popular exfoliating procedure. Want to know how to get the most out of it?

1. What problems does peeling with fruit acids solve?
2. What acids are used for fruit peeling?
3. Features of peeling in the salon
4. Stages of fruit peeling at home
5. Tools Overview
6. Precautionary measures
7. Tips and reviews from cosmetologists

What problems does peeling with fruit acids solve?

Peeling, exfoliation, exfoliation is getting rid of dead cells of the surface, stratum corneum of the skin. Why remove it? To ensure that the skin is renewed and does not look dull. Along the way, peeling with fruit acids can solve a lot of problems. Let's talk about everything in order.

Fruit acids weaken the bonds between the cells of the stratum corneum and thus promote their removal, revealing clean, young skin.

The skin, devoid of the “husk” of dead cells, looks fresh and radiant.

As a result of controlled trauma to the skin, the process of its renewal begins. The basic principle of action of fruit (and any other) peeling is based on stimulating the self-healing of cells - they produce collagen and elastin more intensively, rushing to “fix” everything.

For the same reason, young cells more actively produce natural moisturizing factor, which contributes to the healthy functioning of the skin.

“Any peeling is perceived by the skin as trauma. And since there has been an injury and the skin is damaged, it is urgent to synthesize scaffold fibers and glycosaminoglycans of the dermis to restore the defect. This way, not only the surface layer of the epidermis is renewed, but also the deep layers of the dermis.”

Peeling with fruit acids is said to be the most gentle. But if you have thin, dry or sensitive skin, it is best to consult your doctor before undergoing the procedure.

Fruit peeling has become a familiar skin care routine for many. Home exfoliation courses and significantly more effective peeling courses in a salon or clinic act against:

photoaging and wrinkles;

post-acne, scars and scars (not too deep);

acne - beta hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid, are used to combat this problem (but your doctor may also recommend fruit peeling).

dullness of the skin with hyperkeratosis (too thick stratum corneum of the skin).

“The older we get, the more important tissue renewal is: with age, the natural cycle of differentiation and maturation of keratinocytes lengthens and instead of a month it is 50–60 days. It is necessary to exfoliate your skin, otherwise aging will only accelerate. The regeneration processes will slow down significantly, and the penetration of anti-aging treatments will be difficult.”

The effectiveness of fruit peeling is related to the acid concentration. After a very superficial home peel, the pigment spot will become paler. And after a course of superficial peeling in the salon (with a higher concentration of acids), it may disappear completely.

Peels with fruit acids have become popular because the rehabilitation process after the procedure is usually not very long, and the effect - renewed and radiant skin - is noticeable almost immediately.

Skin renewed after peeling looks radiant, fresh, flawless. © Getty Images

What acids are used for fruit peeling?

Let's list the most popular fruit acids for peelings.

Glycolic (from sugar cane) is perhaps the most popular AHA acid. It is used in a huge range of concentrations, from 2% in home toners to 70% in salon treatments.

Almond (from sweet almonds) has the greatest softness (along with lactic acid).

Dairy the acid, of course, is not fruit in origin, since it is obtained as a result of milk fermentation, but in terms of characteristics and action it still belongs to this category. It is considered the softest of the AHA acids, suitable for use even on damaged, sensitive skin.

Pyruvic (wine) - found in grapes. Pyruvic peeling at a certain acid concentration can have a deeper effect than the most popular glycolic peel.

Apple It is obtained not only from apples, but also from many other fruits and berries: apricots, cherries, cherries. It also has pronounced antioxidant properties.

Lemon popular in whitening peels because, in addition to exfoliating, it also has whitening properties. Not only and not so much citrus fruits are rich in it, but, for example, blueberries.

Phytic acts quite softly. It is obtained from cereal extracts, such as rice husk, quinoa, etc. Gently exfoliates and has an antioxidant effect.

Blueberries, berries, almonds are all sources of fruit acids (AHA), which are used for peeling. © Getty Images

Features of peeling in the salon

Chemical peeling is carried out in a course that requires preparation. You should start by consulting a doctor. Depending on the condition of the skin and the problems that need to be solved, he will make a cocktail of fruit acids and select the desired concentration. All this depends on skin type, its pH, health characteristics, etc.

The procedure is unlikely to be performed on the day of the consultation. The skin needs preparation.

Medical director of the SkinCeuticals brand Elena Lykova recommends the following regimen:

“When preparing for peeling, it is better to use an integrated approach. It is recommended to adjust your usual skin care a month before the procedure.

Include antioxidants in your usual beauty routine.

Use a renewing (exfoliating) serum in the evenings (before applying night care products).

Use sunscreens with the maximum level of protection (50+). This is a prerequisite for preparing for a chemical peel.”

A chemical peel is a controlled chemical burn. The cosmetologist applies an acid or a mixture of acids to cleansed facial skin and leaves for several minutes. Then, with the help of a neutralizing substance, the reaction stops and the acids disintegrate. The first visual impression after peeling is not the most pleasant: redness, tightness, peeling. The skin needs rehabilitation and proper post-peeling care.

For a speedy recovery and the best effect after peeling, the following are very important:

the most delicate cleansing (give preference to soft foam cleansers);

antioxidant serums to accelerate skin recovery;

powerful moisturizing care (no oils!);

products with an SPF factor of at least 50, intended for the face.

Stages of fruit peeling at home

About 10 years ago, a revolution took place in home care. Scientists have found a way to “pour” fruit acids into vials for home use. Of course, you shouldn’t expect the stunning effect that is possible after a salon course, but noticeable and pleasant skin renewal is quite possible at home.

Fruit acids for home use do not tolerate fuss and negligence. Peeling is peeling, and it must also be carried out according to the rules at home.

The product with acids is applied in the evenings to thoroughly cleansed dry skin. Follow the step-by-step scheme.

Waterless cleansing using micellar water (with or without oils) to remove makeup and impurities.

Washing with a mild cleanser - gel or mousse depending on skin type and personal preferences. You should not use scrubs. The skin should be blotted with a soft towel, ideally a silk one.

Alcohol-free toner. Let it absorb completely.

Peeling with fruit acids apply only on completely dry skin, avoiding the eye and lip areas unless otherwise stated in the manufacturer's recommendations. Products with a low concentration of fruit acids can be used daily (read the recommendations for use on the product packaging). Home peels with more concentrated AHA acids are used in courses strictly according to the instructions.

In 2-3 minutes (or as recommended by the manufacturer) onto the skin apply a caring night cream or a mask. If you use a mask, be sure to carefully remove excess after 10-15 minutes.

In the morning, before going outside, be sure to use sun protection factor cream.

Peeling with fruit acids is a safe and highly effective procedure designed to rejuvenate the skin and reduce its oiliness.

Fruit peeling is very popular: it minimally injures the skin, does not require rehabilitation care and does not disrupt the usual lifestyle. Therefore, if you are not a supporter of anti-aging injections and newfangled hardware techniques, then this procedure is for you!

Fruit peeling is a superficial chemical peeling; its components are acids of plant origin. When exposed to the skin, they cleanse the pores well, normalize the secretion of sebum, reduce the formation of acne and comedones, and also stimulate the functioning of fibroblasts, which promotes the production of collagen, firmness and elasticity of the skin.

In addition to surface peeling, there is also:

1. Medium chemical peeling – eliminates advanced stages of acne, post-acne, pigmentation, smoothes wrinkles.
2. Deep chemical peeling - affects the deep layers of the epidermis, and can remove facial folds and sagging skin, scars, scars and old age spots.

Peeling with fruit acids causes a chemical burn, the degree of which is strictly controlled by a cosmetologist. The principle of this effect is based on the restoration of the damaged surface, during which the process of skin regeneration starts, that is, active cell division and renewal of the upper layers of the epidermis occur, resulting in:

1. the complexion will improve: healthy and uniform
2. turgor increases, the skin becomes soft and smooth
3. fine wrinkles are smoothed out, the expression of facial folds is reduced
4. pigment spots lighten
5. Increases skin HP, elasticity, firmness
6. capillaries and blood vessels are strengthened
7. tightens pores, removes blackheads
8. the number of skin rashes decreases.

Indications for peeling with fruit acids

Gentle fruit peeling, if necessary, can be done at a young age to combat teenage problems and improve skin condition. In older age, to prevent the first signs of skin aging, that is:

1. flabby, aging skin that has undergone photoaging
2. normal skin that is pale or sallow in color
3. freckles and minor age spots
4. low turgor, small wrinkles
5. pimples, acne and minor acne marks
6. oily or oily skin, enlarged pores, comedones
7. combination skin type with a T-zone prone to oiliness

At the same time, fruit peeling does not cause dramatic changes in the skin; in adolescence it is relevant for acne and pimples, in older age - for the purpose of lightening and slight rejuvenation of the skin, as well as as a preparatory stage for more serious procedures.

getting rid of freckles: photos before and after fruit peeling

To treat more serious problems, we recommend a medium peel or a deep chemical or laser peel.

The most effective fruit acids

For superficial peeling, cosmetologists select those acids that are most suitable for a particular age category and/or skin problem.

The most popular today are the following alpha hydroxide (AHA) fruit acids:

Mandelic acid. One of the mildest fruit acids, its source is bitter almonds. Due to its high molecular weight, mandelic acid molecules slowly penetrate the stratum corneum of the skin, providing a gentle cleansing effect. Almond peeling is the most gentle, recommended mainly for hypersensitive, dry and rosacea-affected skin.

Glycolic acid. Obtained from green grapes, sugar beets and sugar cane. Due to its low molecular weight, acid molecules instantly penetrate into various layers of the dermis and promote the process of regeneration of healthy cells. Glycolic peeling is the most popular and can be used to eliminate various problems, but is especially recommended for correcting age-related changes.

Lactic acid. Lactic acid is found in blueberries and tomatoes. Peeling with lactic acid has excellent moisturizing properties, so it is often used for dry, dehydrated skin.

Lemon acid. Sources of citric acid include lemon, many citrus fruits and pineapple. Lemon peeling is recommended for tired, problematic and oily skin with comedones and enlarged pores.

Wine acid. The maximum concentration of tartaric acid is concentrated in grapes. It is also found in cherries and apples, tangerines and oranges, avocados and limes, gooseberries and black currants, pomegranate, lingonberries, etc.

Apple acid. Sources of malic acid are apples and tomatoes. The pectin contained in the acid heals the skin and relieves inflammation, while ascorbic acid stimulates collagen production. The antioxidants contained in the acid neutralize the effects of free radicals.

And not only. Some salons practice combined fruit peels, which consist of several types of acids with different properties.

What determines the effectiveness of fruit peeling?

The fundamental condition for obtaining the desired peeling result is: the frequency of the procedure, the percentage composition of the acid and the time of its exposure.

1. Frequency. The frequency of superficial chemical peeling depends both on the general condition of the skin, but also on your capabilities.

Typically, clinics offer a course of 7-10-15 sessions every 10-15 days. Some people can afford such an intensive course, but for others once a month is enough.

You need to know that fruit peeling can be performed as a one-time procedure:

1. up to 25 years of age, it is recommended both as a course and once every one and a half to two months to remove blackheads, acne and reduce greasiness
2. from 25 to 30 years, a one-time procedure can be performed to improve the overall condition of the skin; two to three peels per year are enough
3. 30-45 years old, as a preventive measure, you can take a course of 4-6 sessions, and then only maintain the effect with one session every one and a half to two months
4. at 45-60 years old, fruit peeling is mainly used as a preparatory process for deep chemical peeling or other procedures.

If necessary, you can carry out autumn-winter peeling once every one and a half to two months, combining it with various rejuvenating procedures. If you have serious problems: pronounced age-related changes and old age spots, you may be offered a course of 5-10 sessions with a frequency of 10-15 days.

2. Acid concentration. Selected by cosmetologists depending on skin type, age and problem being solved. So:

1. Skin rejuvenation. To restore aging skin, remove fine wrinkles and pigmentation, the percentage of acids can vary from 25 to 50.
2. Problem skin, pigmentation. To cleanse the skin of sebaceous secretions, remove blackheads, acne and post-acne, the ratio of acids also varies from 25 to 50%.
3. Scars. To eliminate scars, doctors use the highest concentration of acid - 50-70%.

IMPORTANT: Medium and high concentrations of ANA are used for peelings. When using high concentration acid, the procedure is carried out no more than once every one to one and a half months.

It must be remembered that the higher the percentage of acid, the stronger the skin burn, the more time it takes to recover.

The exposure time of fruit peeling is the most important factor determining the effectiveness of this procedure, therefore it is selected individually. It cannot be fixed, as it depends on the type of skin, its barrier properties, the thickness of the stratum corneum, the presence of cosmetic defects, and sensitivity to the drug.

1. Avoid visiting the solarium and UV radiation two to three weeks before the procedure.
2. It is necessary to stop hair removal one month before the procedure.
3. Avoid exfoliating sponges and preparations with retinol for two to three weeks before peeling.
4. Avoid using alcohol-containing lotions on the day of the session.
5. Avoid the use of acne medications containing isotretinoin

You should refuse the procedure if you have:

1. skin infectious diseases, including herpes
2. papillomas or warts
3. keloid or hypertrophied scars
4. allergies to peeling components
5. cancer or recent radiation therapy
6. cryosurgery or surgery performed within a month before the procedure
7. pregnancy and lactation period.

Preparatory stage and fruit peeling

To maximize the effect of fruit peeling, a week or two before it is carried out, it is advisable to undergo pre-peel preparation using a special lotion, washing gel or cream based on fruit acid, which helps remove dead skin cells and soften the stratum corneum, which will ensure maximum impact of the peeling composition.

Fruit peeling, like any salon procedure, is carried out in stages:

1. Cleansing the stratum corneum from sebaceous deposits, dirt and makeup residues.
2. Degreasing and pre-peeling. Involves treatment with special preparations based on fruit acids. Necessary for maximum effect.
3. Peeling. Application of the acid composition and exposure, depending on the problem, from 2 to 10-20 minutes. At this time, a slight burning or tingling sensation may be felt.
4. Neutralization. After the specified time, a neutralizer is applied to stop the peeling process.
5. Final stage. At the end of the procedure, everything is washed off and a post-peeling cream is applied to the face, which will soothe and moisturize the skin.

In total, the procedure takes 40-50 minutes. At the end of the fruit peeling session, you can safely go home; no post-peeling care is required.

Light redness and peeling are almost unnoticeable, so you can apply makeup and return to your normal lifestyle.

However, there are still some caveats.

1. It is recommended to use at least SPF-30 sunscreen even when there is no sun.
2. Refuse to visit the solarium and do not plan a vacation at sea for two to three weeks.

Side effects of fruit peeling

The use of cosmetics based on fruit acids is completely safe if their concentration does not exceed 10%.

High concentrations of fruit acids can cause severe chemical burns on sensitive skin, accompanied by redness, severe burning, blistering and pain.

In some cases, again on dry and sensitive skin, discoloration and scarring may appear, which will subside over time.

Cost of fruit peeling

The price of the procedure depends on the class of the salon, the products used and the areas treated. So in salons in Moscow and St. Petersburg, the average cost of fruit peeling is:

1. dairy - from 700 rubles.
2. glycolic – from 1,000 rubles
3. wine – from 1,500 rubles

Peeling with fruit acids at home

It is, of course, better to entrust even superficial chemical peeling to professionals. But, if for some reason you decide to do it yourself at home, then this is quite possible.

To do this, you can buy acid peeling from the domestic cosmetics manufacturer “Kora” at the pharmacy.

Exfoliant Cream-mask Bark for the face with fruit acids It is quite effective, has a mild effect and does not cause allergies. There are many positive reviews about the drug. With regular use, facial skin becomes softer and brighter, it is moisturized and deeply cleansed, pores are narrowed, fine wrinkles are smoothed out. Caution: Cora is not suitable for sensitive skin.

Fruit peeling Skinlite (South Korea) - an ideal product for sensitive skin, gives it youth, freshness, and velvety.

Peeling Janssen Inspira MFA - German brand of professional cosmetics Janssen Cosmeceutical. Professional peeling Jansen basically contains a biocomplex of fruit acids (40%). Recommended for aging skin. The drug is suitable for home use. Sold in beauty salons.

Read the instructions, and only then proceed with the procedure at home:

1. Apply the cleanser to damp skin, lather with your hands until foam forms, and wash your face with running water. Take care of your eyes.
2. Then use fruit lotion to exfoliate. Using a soft brush, apply first to the forehead and nose, then to the cheeks, chin, neck and décolleté, and only then to the cheekbones and eyelids. Shoot in reverse order. Try to apply the lotion strips end to end so that they do not overlap each other. Take care of the mucous membranes of the eyelids and lips.
3. After applying the peeling composition, you may feel some burning or slight tingling. Monitor your skin's reaction. The exposure time depends on the individuality of your skin. As a rule, two to three minutes is enough for the first time. Next, apply the neutralizer and rinse your face. With subsequent use, the exposure time can be increased. The procedure time is 15-20 minutes.

Peeling with lemon juice at home

Peeling with acids is not a newfangled procedure, it has come down to us from ancient times, it was used in Ancient Greece and Egypt, Queen Cleopatra often resorted to it. Our ancestors also used it. Try it too, just be extremely careful and monitor your skin’s reaction.

To obtain a peeling composition, combine lemon juice (not to be confused with diluted citric acid, this is a synthetic product) with any vegetable oil in a 2:1 ratio. That is, two tablespoons of lemon juice and one spoon of any base oil: olive, almond, flaxseed.

Dip a cotton pad into the mixture and apply to your face. After 3-4 minutes your face will begin to tingle. After 2-3 minutes, rinse your face with plenty of water; the skin will remain red and the pores will remain tight.

The frequency of lemon peeling depends on the condition of your skin; as a rule, after slight peeling, the stratum corneum should be completely restored.

To carry out peeling, you can also mix lemon juice with honey in a 1:1 ratio.

For these purposes, you can also use pineapple, sour kiwi, unripe grapes and milky tomatoes in combination with honey or butter.

Before experimenting at home, contact a professional for the first time.

For many girls, the phrase “cleansing your face” evokes unpleasant associations with sore and inflamed skin for several days. But soft and pleasant peeling with fruit acids is the complete opposite of methods for getting rid of problematic epidermis and dead cells.

Types of acids

Fruit peeling is the removal of dead skin cells from the surface of the skin in order to restore its beauty, radiance and softness. The technique mainly uses natural ingredients, which have not only exfoliating properties, but also excellent antioxidant properties.

What acids are used:

1. 
   
   
   
   Dairy;
2. Lemon;
3. Wine;
4. Glycolic;
5. Apple.

Dairy is a source of proteins and beneficial minerals. It is found in grapes, apples and a variety of fermented milk products, including fermented baked milk and kefir. This is an ideal peeling for those with problematic sensitive skin, as it provides a very gentle cleansing. In addition, lactic acid fights dry epidermis, keratinized parts of the body (heels, elbows, knees) and whitens the face.

Lemon is suitable for problematic skin, which not only needs to be cleansed of dead cells, but also saturated with natural vitamins and antioxidants. It is also known for its whitening properties. Experts use it together with tartaric acid to ensure maximum effect. Contained in all citrus fruits.

Photo - Citric acid

Tartaric acid will provide superficial peeling of the mature and aging surface of the face. It can be found in ripe grapes, citrus fruits and homemade wine. It is also added to shampoo to accelerate hair growth and various body lotions.

The action of glycolic acid is aimed at lightening certain areas of the epidermis. It has the lowest molecular weight of all the options presented, thanks to which it easily penetrates into the middle and deep layers. This ensures the treatment of age spots and cell regeneration from the inside. This is a professional acid that is made from green sugar cane.

Malic acid, accordingly, is found in ripe apples. This exfoliating composition is suitable for all skin types, because, penetrating into the integumentary tissues, acid molecules restore the water balance of cells and accelerate their recovery.

Photo - Malic acid

Home use

Peeling with fruit AHA acids is easy to do at home due to the availability of most of the necessary products. A special mask is applied to the face, which, absorbed into the skin, eliminates dullness and dead cells, restores water balance and cleanses pores.

Step-by-step instructions on how to carry out fruit peeling:

1. Cleanse your face using alcohol-free products. Do not apply toner and cream, they can negatively affect the result;
2. Before the procedure, you will need to prepare a medicinal composition. Many reviews say that peeling with grape fruit acids is the most effective, so we suggest considering its recipes. You can prepare a simple mixture - just squeeze the juice from fresh berries. Experts recommend supplementing this composition with citrus fruits or milk proteins. Therefore, peeling based on grape juice and yogurt is considered the most effective. Combine them in equal parts and stir well, heat slightly in a water bath until pleasantly warm. That's it, the product is ready;
3. Remove hair so that it does not interfere with the application process. Apply the mixture carefully onto your face using a cotton swab. Avoid the eye area; if the mixture gets on the mucous membrane, it will start to sting. Leave on the skin for at least 30 minutes, ideally 40;
4. Rinse off only with plain water; the use of gel and soap is strictly prohibited. Afterwards, do not apply the cream for several more hours.

Photo - Before and after peeling

You need to repeat the procedure twice a week for normal skin and once for sensitive skin. The result will be noticeable after 7 uses; for some girls, the effect, as in the photo, appears only after 10 sessions. Before and after fruit peeling, it is not recommended to sunbathe in the sun; you need to wait a couple of days. Also avoid applying decorative cosmetics.
Video: fruit peeling for face

Professional brands

It is not always possible to prepare a fruit mixture at home, especially if you want to do complex glycol cleaning. Fortunately, now in the pharmacy you can buy any compositions that contain fruit peeling with acids (Bark, Holy Land and others). Let's consider their effectiveness:

The most popular brands of peelings with fruit acids are Kora, Holy Land and Gemene for home use. Their principle of action is similar to each other: eliminates skin grayness, helps normalize moisture balance and cleanse pores, accelerates regeneration.