Aesculus hippocastanum extract in cosmetics

What cosmetics contain horse chestnut extract?

The presence of horse chestnut extract in cosmetics can be determined by the labels Horse Chestnut Seed Extract, Aesculus hippocastanum Seed Extract. Typically, horse chestnut extract makes up from 0.2 to 3% of the composition of a cosmetic product.

Properties of horse chestnut extract used in cosmetics:

Anti-inflammatory. Elements in horse chestnut extract can stimulate the production of glucocorticoids by the adrenal glands - hormones that inhibit the activity of enzymes that destroy tissue.

Vascular strengthening. Horse chestnut extract reduces the number of pores in the walls of capillaries and their diameter, and effectively fights vascular mesh.

Decongestant. Horse chestnut extract regulates the flow of tissue fluid, directing it from capillaries to vessels and reducing its accumulation in tissues.

Antibacterial. Horse chestnut extract inhibits the activity of fungal infections and many bacteria that cause skin inflammation.

Anti-cellulite. Horse chestnut extract enhances microcirculation in the skin, tones it and gets rid of the “orange peel”.

Strengthening. Horse chestnut extract stimulates blood circulation in the scalp, strengthens hair follicles and prevents hair loss.

Protective. Elements of horse chestnut extract are able to absorb harmful UV rays.

Horse chestnut extract is included in many medications for the treatment of thrombophlebitis, varicose veins, hemorrhoids, uterine bleeding, remedies for reducing joint pain and relieving swelling in the legs.

In folk medicine, an alcoholic infusion of chestnut fruits is used to lubricate sore joints, fresh juice from chestnut flowers is drunk for exacerbation of hemorrhoids, and a decoction of chestnut bark is given to improve digestion and for inflammation of the gallbladder.

Cosmetics containing horse chestnut extract should be stored in tightly closed packaging in a cool place, protected from light, and protected from moisture.

What cosmetics contain horse chestnut extract?

1. cream for normal and oily skin
2. remedies for rosacea
3. lotion for problem skin
4. hair strengthening masks
5. shampoos, hair conditioners
6. cream, suntan oil
7. cream, foot balm
8. decongestant creams
9. anti-cellulite cream
10. bath foam
11. aftershave

The use of cosmetics with horse chestnut extract is undesirable:

1. during pregnancy
2. in case of individual allergy to extract elements - coumarin, escin, styrene, flavonoids
3. for chronic renal failure
4. with exacerbation of liver diseases, low blood pressure
5. with reduced blood viscosity

What is horse chestnut extract used in cosmetology?

Horse chestnut is a large deciduous tree up to 30 m high; its homeland is considered to be the Balkan Mountains, although it grows well in almost any place where the climate is temperate and the soils are deep and loose. According to some versions, the horse chestnut got its name from the shiny brown color of the seeds, reminiscent of the bay color of horses. The ancient Romans considered the wild horse chestnut Aesculus (also called “aesculus”, “acorn”) to be one of the types of oak and enjoyed decorating parks with these majestic trees. Horse chestnut could be found not only in Southern Europe, but even in India and East Asia, on the North American continent. In the middle of the 16th century, horse chestnut began to decorate Constantinople, and was soon brought to Vienna, from where it began its triumphal procession through the most famous parks of Europe - Parisian Versailles, Vienna Prater, Lagrange Park on the shores of Lake Geneva... The festive flowering of the chestnut tree, when its entire crown is covered fragrant candle inflorescences, as well as the bright yellow autumn splendor of large chestnut leaves in combination with smooth round falling chestnuts left no one indifferent. At the beginning of the 19th century, horse chestnut first appeared in Crimea, and since then it is difficult to imagine Ukraine without the symbol of Kyiv - the horse chestnut.

Horse chestnut has long been used not only as an ornamental tree. Musical instruments were made from its wood, flowers were turned into fragrant honey, ground fruits were used to make bookbinding glue and even gunpowder. But the main value of horse chestnut is in the healing properties of infusions and extracts extracted from its fruits. Horse chestnut extract is one of the most popular remedies for the treatment of vein diseases and the prevention of thrombosis. And the anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties of horse chestnut extract, the ability to strengthen capillary walls, are widely used in the manufacture of cosmetics.

How is horse chestnut extract for cosmetics obtained?

The main value of horse chestnut is the elements escin and saponins it contains, as well as flavonoids and carotenoids. To extract them, horse chestnut seeds are crushed, poured with a 60% aqueous solution of ethyl alcohol in a ratio of 1:7, after 36 hours the resulting extract is settled and filtered. Extraction with methanol and carbon dioxide is possible. The result is a greenish oily mass suitable for adding to cosmetics.

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(GOOD) Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract (Horse Chestnut Seed Extract)

Horse chestnut extract is a plant extract with anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant properties (eliminates irritation). When used internally, it has been shown to be effective in reducing leg swelling by increasing the elasticity of the tissue surrounding the veins.

Synonyms: Horse chestnut, Wild chestnut, Horse-chesnut. (English), Gemein Rosskastanie. (German), Marronier l’Inde (French).

Use concentration: 0.5-2%

Conditions of use: water-soluble substance, extract solution is added to the finished cosmetic product at a temperature of no more than 35-45 degrees.

Storage: in a dry place, protect from moisture.

Chemical composition: chestnut fruits and bark contain a triterpene glycoside (saponin) with a complex chemical structure, escin (during hydrolysis it is broken down into escigenin and three sugar residues - the general formula is C55H88O24), coumarin esculetin and its glycoside esculin. In addition, flavonoid glycosides were found - quercitrin, isoquercitrin, quercetin and kaempferol. Starch and fatty oil were found in the fruits. sterols, tannins. The leaves of the plant contain quercitrin, isoquercitrin, quercitin, rutin and spireoside, astragalin, carotenoids - lutein, violaxanthin. The flowers contain flavonoids - derivatives of kaempferol and quercetin.

Cosmetic effect: cosmetic products containing this extract have the following effects:

1. anti-inflammatory effect;
2. anti-edematous effect, activates the removal of excess fluid from subcutaneous tissue, restores damaged lipid barrier, preventing moisture loss;
3. Since one of the causes of cellulite is swelling, which first compresses the veins, lymphatic vessels, and then the arteries, chestnut extract is used in anti-cellulite products, since it has a pronounced anti-cellulite and draining effect. Reduces congestion, promotes the removal of excess fluid from problem areas, and helps normalize blood and lymph circulation in the problem area.
4. tonic effect, improves microcirculation in the skin, promotes the removal of cell metabolism products, has antioxidant activity;
5. reduces blood flow to the surface layers of the skin, which is important for reactive skin;
6. reduces the feeling of “heaviness” in the legs, relieves “evening” leg fatigue;
7. strengthens the walls of blood vessels, is used to combat rosacea, prevents the formation of blood clots in the blood vessels of the legs, resolves subcutaneous hemorrhages;
8. since esculin has the ability to absorb harmful UV radiation, horse chestnut extract is used in sunscreens;
9. The main property of horse chestnut extract is the activation of those enzymes that stimulate the hair follicle. Therefore, horse chestnut extract is often an active component of hair loss and hair growth products.

In cosmetology, horse chestnut extract is included in creams and balms for normal and oily skin, anti-cellulite body creams, bath foams, shampoos for washing oily hair, foot creams for the prevention and treatment of varicose veins, products for stimulating growth and preventing hair loss hair. As part of foot creams, horse chestnut extract helps relieve various swelling and has a positive effect on sprains and some sports injuries. Due to its ability to compensate for the negative effects of ultraviolet rays, the extract is used as an integral part of many sunscreen creams and lotions.

The pharmacological effect of horse chestnut extract is associated with the presence of glycosides in it - esculin and escin.

Esculin stimulates the antithrombic activity of blood serum, increases the production of antithrombin in the reticuloendothelial vascular system, and strengthens the walls of blood vessels. Horse chestnut extract increases the tone of venous vessels, strengthens capillaries - reduces capillary permeability, and has a vasoconstrictor effect.

Saponins contained in horse chestnut preparations help lower blood pressure. There is evidence that saponins (in particular, esculetin) and compounds of the peptide nature of chestnut fruits inhibit the growth of some bacteria and fungi. Horse chestnut extract normalizes cholesterol levels in the blood.

Anti-edematous effect of escin: When used internally, it has been shown to be effective in reducing swelling of the legs by increasing the elasticity of the tissue surrounding the veins. In experiments on animals, it was found that escin has an anti-exudative effect that is 600 times greater than the classic flavone rutin. As shown in models of formaldehyde peritonitis, experimental pleurisy in rats and swelling of the rabbit's paw, the anti-exudative potential of escin is comparable to the effect of acetylsalicylic acid, hydrocortisone, phenylbutazone and butadione, and in some cases even exceeds them. There is an assumption that the anti-inflammatory effect of escin is associated with its effect on the adrenal cortex and the ability to stimulate the secretion of glucocorticoids.
Escin, as a saponin, reduces the surface tension of the liquid, is well adsorbed at the interface of surfaces, and these effects extend to the vascular wall. Escin increases the wettability of capillaries, which facilitates the flow of tissue fluid directed into the capillary. Thus, the fluid that predetermines perivascular edema is directed into the vessels due to increased oncotic pressure inside the capillaries.

Venotonic effect of escin: Escin reduces blood viscosity, improves microcirculation, accelerates blood flow in the veins, which prevents the formation and increase of thrombosis. Horse chestnut fruit extract slows down blood clotting, but does not eliminate existing varicose veins.

When applied topically (cutaneously), escin has been proven to quickly penetrate into nearby areas of skin and muscle. Resorption of escin into internal organs, blood, urine, skin and muscles of other areas is limited.
When administered intravenously, escin is quickly excreted from the body with urine and bile, and when administered orally, it is relatively quickly absorbed mainly from the duodenum.

Anti-inflammatory effect: In addition, the sterols contained in the extract (stigmasterol and alpha-spinasterol) have pronounced anti-inflammatory properties, anti-irritant properties (eliminates irritation) and analgesic effects.

Use in medicine: Preparations from horse chestnut fruits are used for varicose veins, acute and chronic thrombophlebitis, trophic ulcers of the legs, for disorders of arterial peripheral circulation (atherosclerosis of the vessels of the extremities, arteritis, thromboembolism of small vessels), for inflammation of hemorrhoids without bleeding, for prevention thrombosis during childbirth and after operations, with thrombosis of the central membrane of the eyes, with articular rheumatism, with diseases of the gallbladder and uterine bleeding.

The extract of this tree, which came to Europe from the Mediterranean, is one of the most popular cosmetic ingredients. It can be found in products for the face, eyelids, body and hair. Below is all about the beneficial beauty properties of chestnut.

1. Horse chestnut: what is it?
2. Compound
3. Beneficial features
4. Application in cosmetics
5. Precautionary measures
6. Cosmetics with horse chestnut

Horse chestnut: what is it?

Horse chestnut (Aésculus hippocástanum) is a tree from the sapidinaceae family with a spreading crown and beautiful inflorescences, reaching 25 meters in height. Its homeland is called the Mediterranean. After the plant was brought to Vienna, it began to spread throughout Europe.

The horse chestnut got its name from the shiny round seeds that were used to feed horses.

Another version of the name is the traces resembling a horse’s shoe that remain at the place where the petiole is attached to the branch after leaf fall.

Almost all parts of the plant are used for medicinal purposes - bark, leaves, flowers, seeds.

Compound

Horse chestnut is a real storehouse of nutrients. Its extracts contain:

glycosides (mainly esculin);

First of all, the biological activity of horse chestnut is associated with the presence of escin, obtained from the seeds. This substance from the group of saponins has an anti-inflammatory effect, strengthens blood vessels, increases their tone and promotes narrowing.

Escin helps reduce the production of the enzyme hyaluronidase, which breaks down hyaluronic acid. This is how chestnut extract helps the skin stay hydrated and elastic.

Beneficial features

Escin, contained in horse chestnut, strengthens blood vessels © iStock

Let us list the main qualities for which horse chestnut is so loved by cosmetics manufacturers.

Strengthens blood vessels reduces their permeability. This allows the use of chestnut extract to combat rosacea and spider veins.

Has a pronounced decongestant action: redirects the flow of fluid from capillaries to vessels, reduces its accumulation in tissues.

Has antifungal and antibacterial activity.

Stimulates circulation.

Improves metabolic processes in cells.

Is powerful antioxidant.

Enhances the effect photoprotective agents.

Application in cosmetics

Below are the main categories of products that contain horse chestnut extract and its effect.

Gels for feet. Relieves swelling and feeling of heaviness.

Anti-aging face creams. Improves blood flow, improves metabolic processes in the skin. Fights free radicals. Slows down the destruction of hyaluronic acid.

Eye creams. Reduces swelling and dark circles, helps smooth out fine wrinkles, and improves skin elasticity.

Remedies for rosacea. Fights redness, reduces the visibility of capillaries, strengthens blood vessels.

Anti-cellulite cosmetics. Works on the outflow of excess fluid, helping to correct the signs of “orange peel”.

Hair preparations for oily seborrhea. Suppresses the development of fungus (one of the causes of dandruff).

Shampoos. Strengthens microcirculation in the scalp, strengthens hair follicles.

Bath and shower products. Improves blood flow in the skin, removes excess fluid from tissues.

Horse chestnut is an effective anti-cellulite component © iStock

Precautionary measures

Side effects from the use of drugs with horse chestnut extract sometimes occur when they are used orally.

Products containing escin are not recommended for use:

in the first trimester of pregnancy;

during breastfeeding;

with renal failure;

Caution is required when taken together with anticoagulants.

A possible limitation in use may be due to individual intolerance to the components of the drug.

Cosmetics with horse chestnut

Concentrate that reduces the visible appearance of “orange peel”, Celluli Eraser, Biotherm, with horse chestnut and caffeine fights cellulite: testing revealed that the skin in problem areas becomes smoother after 14 days of using the product.

Youth activator cream specifically for dry skin Génifique Nutrics, Lancôme, responsible for intensive nutrition. Promotes the production of skin's own proteins. Activates the activity of youth genes, providing a noticeable anti-aging effect day after day.

Soothing and moisturizing eye cream Hydra Zen Crème Yeux, Lancôme, Provides intense hydration to thin, dry skin of the eyelids, significantly soothes and smoothes, and gives a feeling of comfort.

Anti-wrinkle concentrate for the skin around the eyes, Kiehl's, due to the high concentration of pure vitamin C (10.5%) and haloxyl, it reduces crow's feet and fights dark circles under the eyes.