Oils dry out the skin

Dry skin and oils are literally made for each other. Let's see if there is a logical explanation for this love, what it is based on, and how we can make the most of it. Review of the best cosmetic oils, according to the editors of skin.ru - to boot.

1. Properties of oils
2. Facial skin care with natural oils
3. Nourishing and moisturizing oils
4. Essential oils for dry skin
5. Rating of the best oils

Properties of oils

In the wake of the popularity of natural and organic products, once forgotten vegetable oils have again risen to the top of success. Now they are used not only by fans of spa rituals and lovers of folk beauty recipes, but also by the general public.

Vegetable oil is a valuable cosmetic ingredient © iStock

The mass passion for oils, both vegetable and essential, is explained not so much by fashion as by the awareness of the modern consumer. To fall in love with oils deeply and forever, you just need to read the list of skin-beneficial properties that they possess. It is not for nothing that oils occupy the most honorable places in ready-made cosmetic formulas, not only of spa brands, but also of pharmacy, luxury brands, and now also of the mass market.

Why are they so good?

They have a composition similar to that of sebum and help the molecules of active substances penetrate deeper and faster into the epidermis.

Rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids Omega-3, Omega-6, Omega-9, which intensely nourish, smooth the skin and are powerful antioxidants.

Contains vitamins A, E, B1, B12, C, PP.

Includes microelements (potassium, sodium, zinc, calcium, iron, selenium).

Oil is extracted directly from fruits, seeds or seeds of plants. Its value and quality depend not only on its origin, but also on its production method. First-class oils are obtained by cold pressing, which preserves all the properties of the product. Any subsequent pressing or heat treatment deprives vegetable oils of most of their beneficial qualities.

Oils are loved by fans of natural cosmetics © iStock

Facial skin care with natural oils

It is common knowledge that dry skin lacks moisture. However, this is not its only drawback. “Dry skin lacks not only water, but also lipids,” explains Decléor brand expert Olga Gorokhova. — The sebaceous glands do not produce enough sebum. In addition, microcirculation in such skin is slow. As a result, the cell life cycle is shortened. Essential oils and plant oils can really help solve these problems.”

Add a drop of oil to your cream © iStock

Despite the benefits of vegetable oils, it is not customary to use them as a monoproduct. It is not for nothing that manufacturers of spa cosmetics suggest using essential oil cocktails as a serum, and then applying cream.

Nourishing and moisturizing oils

Dry skin will never refuse a portion of high-quality vegetable oil; it will like almost any oil: olive, shea butter, coconut, avocado, macadamia, almond, rosehip, borage. According to Olga Gorokhova, there are oils that are especially useful for dry skin.

Hazelnut oil famous for its moisturizing properties and high penetrating ability, which allows it to act as a vector for essential oils.

Argan oil - a storehouse of omega-6 and omega-9 acids, vitamins A and E.

Inca inchi oil contains essential fatty acids (particularly omega-6 and omega-3) and has a dry texture. Relieves skin irritation and redness, is a powerful antioxidant.

Jojoba oil It is a liquid wax and is similar in composition to sebum, due to which it quickly penetrates into the deep layers of the skin without leaving stickiness and grease on the surface of the epidermis. Promotes regeneration, increases skin elasticity and firmness, nourishes and moisturizes.

Essential oils for dry skin

For dry skin, there is a whole bouquet of essential oils: lavender, geranium, neroli, sandalwood, rosemary, rose, vetiver, marjoram, chamomile, mint (but in small quantities). Cocktails made using these oils:

help to activate the activity of the sebaceous glands;

enhance cell renewal;

have regenerating properties, which is important for dry skin.

Do not apply pure essential oils directly to the skin - this may cause redness and irritation. Exceptions are tea tree and lavender essential oils, which can be used undiluted. Essential oils are only lipid soluble (and not water soluble), so mix them with a fat-containing substance before use.

For dry skin, essential oils that have a tightening, disinfectant, and hair-constricting effect are not recommended: grapefruit, basil, cypress, laurel, lemon, bergamot.

Rating of the best oils

If the package says “cosmetic oil”, inside there is a ready-to-use product for external use. This is a very broad concept that can cover:

refined vegetable oil;

cocktail of vegetable oils;

When you see a “cosmetic oil” label, we advise you to carefully study its composition and decide whether it is right for you. Consider the following options - the best according to skin.ru editors.

Oils for dry skin.

Oil cocktails for dry skin

Warm two drops in your palms, take a few deep breaths, and apply with light dabbing movements to your face and neck. Apply cream on top.

Neovadiol Magistral Elixir serum with restorative oil concentrate, Vichy

Nourishes the skin, restores its density and radiance, strengthens the oval of the face and gives a feeling of comfort due to shea butter, rice bran and sunflower oil.

This product has several uses. Can be used as a serum; add to your cream to enhance nutrition; Apply as a mask - in a thick layer for 10 minutes, then remove any residue.

Extraordinary facial oil “Luxury Nourishment”, L’Oréal Paris

Dry oil nourishes and moisturizes the skin, gives radiance. Contains: essential oils of lavender, rosemary, geranium, orange, rose, marjoram, lavandin, chamomile, vegetable oils of jojoba and rosehip.

2-3 drops are enough. Can be used as a stand-alone product, or applied before or after cream (for a radiant effect).

Night revitalizing concentrate for face

Midnight Recovery Concentrate, Kiehl's

Night primrose oils, rosehip, rosemary, rose oil, lavender essential oils, geranium restore the skin, intensively moisturize and strengthen it.

Essential oils of marjoram, myrrh and lavender and vegetable oils of argan, cranberry, avocado and babassu intensely nourish, moisturize and soften dry and very dry skin

Perhaps you or someone you know has had experience using hyaluronic acid serums (or ampoules) and herbal oils in an attempt to save skin from dryness. The result could be even more drying, tightening and peeling. Why would moisturizers, regardless of their cost, dry out the skin? Let's figure it out.

There are 2 ways to moisturize the skin: direct and indirect. Direct hydration is the attraction of moisture to the skin. Indirect - retention of moisture in the skin. And if you do not combine direct and indirect moisturizers in one product (or at least in one procedure), then the result, paradoxically, may be dehydration.

1) Serums. Direct moisturizing. We attract moisture.

Serums are always gel-like products without oils (or with extremely low oil content). The most famous gelling agent for serums is hyaluronic acid. Let's consider it. Hyaluronic acid (or other polysaccharide gelling agents used in serums) attracts and retains water. Due to this, a gel is formed. This gel creates the effect of a “wet compress” on the skin. In theory, gelling agents should continue to attract and retain water when applied to the skin. After all, inside the skin, hyaluronic acid, which is produced in it, always moisturizes. But in fact, if the air humidity is low, then hyaluronic acid and other humidifiers that work on the principle of a “wet compress” release water into the environment. The gel dries quickly and instead of moisturizing, it tightens the skin.

All the horror stories told about glycerin stem from an incorrect interpretation of the mechanism described above. And they apply not only to glycerin, but to all components that work on the “wet compress” principle. Therefore, when using assets from this category in a product, it must contain substances that can retain attracted moisture, creating a fatty film. It will be more difficult for water to evaporate from under it.

2) Vegetable oils. Indirect humidification. We retain moisture.

In the descriptions of almost all vegetable oils they write “has a moisturizing effect.” There are 2 options in mind:

1. Or the oil remains on the surface of the skin and creates a moisture-retaining film
2. Or it is built into the skin, patching up gaps in it.

In both cases, the water that is already in the skin is retained. But no new one arrives. There may be relief at first. After all, water is retained better and the skin is more hydrated. But after 1-3 months it begins to dry and peel.

This happens for 2 reasons:

1. If oil (or other emollient) regularly creates a moisture-retaining film, then the regenerative processes in the skin are disrupted. The stratum corneum retains water less well. The skin becomes more dehydrated.

Oils of this type include hard ones: shea, cocoa, cupuaçu, muru-muru, etc.

1. If the oil is embedded in the skin, the complex balance of fatty acids and other lipids (fats) that the skin's lipid barrier contains is disrupted. As a result, the stratum corneum retains water less well. The skin becomes dehydrated.

Oils of this type include oils with omega acids: raspberry, rose mosquito, strawberry, cranberry, borage, etc.

It turns out that in different ways we come to one point: disruption of the stratum corneum.

Therefore, when formulating a moisturizer, you need to follow several safety rules:

1) If components that work on the principle of a wet compress are used, then the moisture they attract must be retained. Therefore, they need to be combined with lipids, silicones or any other substances that will create a hydrophobic (water-repellent) film on the surface of the skin and prevent water from evaporating so quickly.

If you make your own serums, be sure to add oils to them.

If you are using hyaluronic acid ampoules, apply something on top to retain moisture. The best oil is a balanced oil (agran, rice bran, etc.)

2) Lipids (fats) must be combined with substances that work through the direct hydration mechanism in order to not only retain moisture, but also replenish its deficiency. Or just use creams with oils. Oils can retain water without gelling agents.

That is, everything is the same as what was described in paragraph 1., only from the other end. If you use oils, make creams (that is, products that contain water) rather than applying them pure. If you use oil mixtures. Then, at least before using them, sprinkle your face generously with water. This will not be the same as using a cream, but it is definitely better than applying only the oil mixture.

3) When working with lipids, you need to understand their properties and the structure of the skin in order to properly balance the composition and not harm the skin.

If you buy cosmetics with oils, you can only hope that the technologist is in the know and correctly selects the optimal composition of oils in the product.

If you make cosmetics yourself, then in order to deal with fatty acids, the German strategy of combining oils (available on the Internet in many cream forums) or the “fat phase of cream” course will help.

When purchasing cosmetics, remember that ampoules with hyaluronic acid must be combined with oils (apply oils on top of concentrates). Oils should be used on well-moisturized skin. If the skin is not very dehydrated, then this method can replace the cream. If discomfort still appears after two or three weeks, then dehydration is severe enough and you need products in cream form.

Water is life. And skin hydration is a big and very important topic. It is discussed in detail in the book “2 Universal Keys for Healthy and Youthful Skin”

Cosmetologist, expert in the field of corneotherapy

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A frequent question that you, my dears, ask me is whether oil dries out the skin? I treated him very responsibly and interviewed a specialist, Hussein Naimi, Doctor of Biochemical Sciences, Doctor of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Director MAGIC ARGANA s.a.r.l Maroc.

He has already written an article for my blog on the topic Argan oil for skin. And today he will answer the question: does oil dry out the skin? Can I use oil instead of cream? How are cream manufacturers fooling us? Is it necessary to apply oil to damp skin? What oils best moisturize and nourish the skin?

Does oil dry out skin?

Let's talk about poor unfortunate skin that we put to the test every day. We smear it with creams, lotions, serums, which often contain preservatives, silicones, emulsifiers, flavors, and mineral oils.

To simplify the explanation, let's briefly introduce the structure of the skin.

On the surface of the skin there is a hydro-lipid filter: water and fat.

Below starts epiderm. The epidermis is a wall of bricks, and inside these bricks is water. The closer to the surface of the skin, the less water is contained inside the bricks. As expected, the bricks are held together with cement. They work with cement at our construction site. fatty acid — Omega 3, 6, 9, 12 and other complex lipids.

The main postulate that you need to know and understand: bricks containing water inside are surrounded and connected by cement made of fatty acids. This is the only way our skin can contain water in its structure!

Of course, the question immediately arises: where does this water come from? Exclusively from within the body, therefore it is imperative and necessary to consume a sufficient amount of water daily.

Now let's imagine that we apply an expensive and wonderful cream to our skin, which contains the purest water and high-quality vegetable oils. Water and fat are just what you need. It is the vegetable oil, not the water, that is absorbed by the skin. Due to its proximity to the fatty acids of the intercellular cement, the oil easily penetrates between the bricks, this is the so-called intercellular road. The level of hydration of your skin (% water content in it) depends on this road, on this fatty cement.

Even if you use a very good cream, your skin absorbs only the oily base from it, and the hydrocomponent (water) evaporates from the surface, leaving, at best, a pleasant sensation. It's the fatty acids that improve your skin's texture, not the water!