Retinol in Korean cosmetics

Published Dec 22, 2013

Autumn and winter are the best time to try or repeat a course of retinol-based anti-aging care. I want to share my experience of using it, perhaps it will help someone avoid mistakes and unwanted effects, and I will also tell you about fairly effective and inexpensive pharmaceutical cosmetics containing retinol.

Having demonstrated its high effectiveness in combating all signs of skin aging (loss of elasticity, wrinkles, pigmentation), retinol rightfully tops the list of the most effective anti-aging ingredients in cosmetic products.

As you know, retinol, or vitamin A, is a fat-soluble vitamin that we need for vision, healthy skin and hair, normal functioning of the immune system and bone growth. It is also a natural antioxidant and humectant. Split ends, brittle nails and the appearance of cracks in the skin and corners of the lips often indicate a lack of this vitamin. It is found in the highest concentrations in liver, fish oil, egg yolk, as well as in plant foods - green and yellow vegetables and fruits, some legumes.

It is difficult to stabilize retinol in its pure form, so its synthetic analogues, retinoids, are used for cosmetic purposes. The most common form in creams is Retinyl palmitate, it is a more stable chemical compound and is not as irritating to the skin. Many products also use a form of retinol such as Retinaldehyde, which allows them to be used even on sensitive skin without the side effects of redness and peeling.

What are the improvements in skin condition after using retinol?

1. Visible smoothingwrinkles both subtle and more defined;
2. Lightening pigment spots and overall evening out skin tone, thanks to the ability of retinol to regulate melanocyte activity;
3. Smoothing and evening out skin texture, pores become less noticeable, skin smoother due to the renewing properties of this component (stimulates the proliferation of epidermal keratinocytes).
4. Skin elasticity increases, retinol is the only active ingredient that affects collagen in 3 directions: it restores damaged fibers, stimulates the production of new ones and protects by inhibiting collagenase.

What do you need to know before you start using retinol?

Retinol increases skin sensitivity and photosensitivity, Therefore, it is recommended for night care, while during the day a cream with a high degree of protection will be needed. It is recommended to start using products with retinol in the fall, when solar activity decreases, and then take a break in the spring-summer. With proper consistent use of retinol in combination with other care products (containing peptides, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid), the result will immediately appear after 2 months of use. During pregnancy and lactation, it is better to avoid products with retinol.

How to properly use retinol-containing products to achieve maximum effectiveness?

The latest generation of cosmetic products usually contain microencapsulated pure retinol, which is released upon contact with the skin and consistently delivers optimal doses of vitamin A to the deep layers of the epidermis.

Most European dermatologists and dermopharmacists recommend starting rejuvenation course with retinol from its small concentrations (0.50% - 0.1%) or from products containing the precursor of retinoic acid - retinoldehyde, which is well tolerated even by sensitive skin prone to allergic reactions. Since we are talking about rejuvenation, as a rule, there is no need to use products with retinol until the age of 35–40, although this does not mean that after 35 it is already necessary to use it. It all depends on the condition of the skin, its needs and the products used previously.

Retinol creams are best used for night care. 3 times a week. However, it is also possible to use retinol daily as intensive therapy - in small concentrations for 2 months, and then for maintenance care - 2-3 times a week.

The product is applied to thoroughly cleansed, dry skin; upon first use, a slight tingling may occur until the skin gradually gets used to it.

If you need to use an additional care product after a product with retinol, you should wait at least 30 minutes before applying the next product (this can be moisturizing, tightening serums or creams). However, as a rule, night creams with retinol also contain other active caring ingredients, which makes them comprehensive, complete care.

What products can you combine retinol with for the effect of renewed, smooth skin?

It is very important to remember that retinol is hydroscopic, i.e. can dehydrate the skin, therefore, it is necessary to combine its use with moisture-retaining products rich in hyaluronic acid or gluconolactone. Their use should be included in your daily morning care routine, and a deeply moisturizing mask should be applied at least once a week.

Thanks to its renewing ability, retinol is ideal as a transcursor for the absorption of the active ingredients of products combined with it. The best results were seen when combined with vitamin C, that is, retinol at night, vitamin C in the morning. As a night remedy on days when retinol cream is not applied, many cosmetologists advise using products with glycolic acid, which itself itself is one of the strongest anti-aging agents. Thus, the superficial layers of the epidermis (glycolic acid) and deeper layers (retinol) are gently exfoliated and renewed. I talked about my experience using products with glycolic acid here, and about the top 5 best pharmacy creams containing it here.

Psample model of anti-aging skin care routine with a course of retinol it will look like this:

Morning: cleansing + antioxidant moisturizer with vitamin C + SPF (remember to reapply every two hours if you are outdoors).

Evening: cleansing + product with retinol (2 – 3 times a week) + if necessary, additional care product, wait 30 minutes. On the remaining days of the week, instead of retinol, a product with glycolic acid is applied. It is necessary to supplement this treatment with a deeply moisturizing mask 1-2 times a week.

Personal experience using retinol

I bought my first cream with retinol after 35 years, it was Retinol 0,3% from SkinCeuticals. I wanted to smooth out already noticeable wrinkles between the eyebrows and on the forehead, narrow pores and make the surface of the skin smoother, even out its tone, and also lighten post-acne spots. By that time, I was already using creams containing 15% glycolic acid, which my skin responded to with a bang. My dermopharmacist advised me to add retinol to my skincare regimen in the fall to work more deeply on facial wrinkles between the eyebrows and, in general, on uneven skin texture.

I must say that I adhered to the above-mentioned care regimen and in the morning I used liposomal antioxidant serum C-Vit from Sesderma, and a protective screen from SkinCeuticals Ultra Facial Defense SPF50. In night care I alternated Retinol 0,3% (3 times a week) with NeoStrata High Potency Gel with 15% glycolic acid. I combined both of these products with active moisturizing and tightening ampoules Endocare Tensage.

After just two weeks of such care, the skin tone noticeably evened out, it tightened and became more radiant, smoothed, and the pores became cleaner. At the same time, I began to feel a slight tightness and dehydration, and sometimes the skin on my nose peeled off. These troubles quickly disappeared with the introduction of a moisturizing serum with a high content of hyaluronic acid Hydrating B5 from SkinCeuticals into my morning routine (the dermatologist recommended applying it over the C-vit serum) and using a moisturizing mask-cream from Caudalie twice a week.

As for the expression wrinkles on the forehead and between the eyebrows, after a 2-month course they definitely softened, but still cannot be said to have “disappeared”.

Top 5 pharmacy creams with retinol

1. Retinol 0,3%, SkinCeuticals is my favorite and an absolute must have for nighttime anti-aging care during the fall-winter period. Ultra-light texture, quickly absorbed without leaving a greasy film. Average price 90 euros. Capacity 30 ml. It is used very sparingly: it was enough for a full course of 5-6 months and the contents still remained.

2. Redermic R, La Roche-Posay - this cream, in the year of its appearance, 2012, became the winner in the category “Best innovative product among anti-aging products” according to the results of the annual vote of dermopharmacists in Spain. High efficiency without skin irritation, pleasant light texture. Average price 38 euros.

3. Eluage, Avéne - a whole range of products for the care of the face, eye contour and body. An ideal product for sensitive skin based on retinoldehyde, it improves skin elasticity. For the face it is available in the form of an emulsion - for normal, oily or combination skin, and in the form of a cream for dry skin. Average price 30 euros.

4. LipoCeutical Retises Nano, the Spanish pharmaceutical concern Sesderma, - the advantage of this product is that retinol is contained in nanosomes, which promotes its transport to the deeper layers of the epidermis. Available in concentrations of 0.15%, 0.25% and 0.50%. Price from 45 to 50 euros depending on concentration.

5. Kinetinol, Martiderm. Its texture is more suitable for normal and dry skin; it also has a restorative and nourishing effect. Here, retinol acts in synergy with such an active component as kinetin; in addition, it contains macadamia oil, shea butter, jojoba oil, vitamin E and a regenerating complex. Average price 32 euros.

Have you already used products with retinol? Which product containing it was effective for you?

Characteristics in the rating

Retinol is a form of vitamin A, which, when it enters the pores of the skin, goes into the stage of transformation into retinolic acid and it is this process that causes the effect of regeneration (renewal) of the skin. The component does a good job of stimulating the production of collagen and elastin, which are responsible for skin tone and elasticity, so creams containing retinol are a godsend for those who want to avoid the appearance of new wrinkles or the deepening of existing ones. Reviews often write that in addition to the anti-aging effect, you can observe the lightening of age spots and their adjustment to the complexion. And cosmetologists often mention its antioxidant properties, because retinol protects against the harmful effects of the environment and neutralizes free radicals.

Due to such a range of positive effects, retinol was often purchased independently in pharmacies; it has an oily texture and sells for a modest price. But here it is very important to note that retinol is a potent substance, so its concentration should not exceed the norm, and the highest permissible value is 2%. Such proportions cannot be maintained at home, so it is still better to trust certified cosmetics. By the way, not every professional cream will be good for everyday use. In order to help you understand the abundance of creams containing retinol offered today, we have created a rating of the best products for different purposes and different pricing policies.

TOP 10 best creams with retinol

10 Vitex Retinol+Mg “Day. Deep Action"

Budget cream Retinol+Mg “Day. Deep action" is universal and suitable for any skin type. It is recommended to use the product after 35 years of age. The texture of the cream is light, quickly absorbed into the pores and does not leave a greasy film or shine. The product does an excellent job of evening out skin color, so the product can be a good base for makeup. The microrelief is smoothed thanks to the oils of red oil palm and wheat germ.

Retinol perfectly renews skin cells and activates collagen synthesis. And magnesium, which is part of the cream, will strengthen the skin fibers and relieve tension in the facial muscles, which undoubtedly has a beneficial effect on tissue tone. According to consumer reviews, the cream, if used regularly, can “erase” recently formed shallow wrinkles. Vitex Retinol+Mg “Day. Deep Action" is recommended to be applied to the skin with gentle movements twice a day.

9 Elizavecca Milky Piggy EGF Retinol

EGF Elizavecca Milky Piggy EGF Retinol cream is a type of age-related cosmetics and it is recommended to use this Korean product from the age of 35. The composition includes macadamia oil, oligopeptide, adenosine, swallow's nest extract, retinol, niacinamide, arginine. Macadamia nut oil perfectly nourishes the skin, accelerating the regeneration of new cells. Niacinamide prevents the evaporation of moisture from the facial skin, perfectly moisturizing dry skin; improves blood circulation.

Swallow's nest extract is one of the best substances that evens out skin tone and texture, smoothing out small scars and spots that appear, for example, after acne. Also, swallow's nest has a lifting effect, which is especially important during the period of “blurring” of facial contours. The cream became a review leader, receiving many positive responses from both professional cosmetologists and ordinary consumers. The result becomes noticeable after just one month of use.

8 Medical Collagen 3D Revital Line Collagen

Revital Line Collagen moisturizing cream from the famous Russian brand Medical Collagene 3D is intended for everyday skin care. The action of the cream is aimed at renewing mature “fading” skin, it enhances and stimulates natural rejuvenation processes (collagen production, replacement of old cells with new ones), smoothes wrinkles and tightens the oval of the face. In addition to the rejuvenating effect, the cream improves complexion and gives a healthy glow to the skin.

Medical Collagene 3D Revital Line Collagen cream contains one of the best moisture retainers in skin cells - hyaluronic acid, 1 molecule of which retains up to 1000 molecules of water. And the complex of acids will enhance the processes of natural tissue regeneration. Also included: panthenol, collagen, allantoin, olive oil and peach kernels. The manufacturer recommends using the cream at the first appearance of signs of aging.

7 SkinCode genetic's Energy Retinol

SkinCode genetic's Energy Retinol is the best complex cream. The composition includes retinol, tocopherol, ascorbic acid, coenzyme, lipid complex. Coenzyme is a substance that helps remove toxins from skin cells, thereby allowing oxygen to circulate in the pores, which improves the overall condition of the tissues. Scientific research confirms that thanks to coenzyme, the elasticity of the epidermis is improved and its microrelief is smoothed.

The lipid complex perfectly supports skin immunity, and retinol lightens pigmentation on the face and reduces the depth of wrinkles. The vitamin complex protects the skin from damage from toxic substances from the air, which helps maintain healthy and radiant skin. It is recommended to use the cream from the age of 30. After regular use, the skin surface is evened out, small scars are smoothed out, spots are lightened, and complexion improves.

6 HOLY LAND ALPHA-BETA WITH RETINOL RESTORING

Holy Land ALPHA-BETA WITH RETINOL RESTORING face cream is perfect for sensitive and problematic skin. For those with sensitive skin to UV rays, the manufacturer added lactic acid to the composition; for flaky skin – hydrolyzed silk; for those prone to rashes and allergic reactions – blueberry extract. And the concentration of retinol, verified by the manufacturer, helps restore the epidermis during the post-acne period and heal small wounds and scars.

Reviews often write that they observe the effect of evening out skin tone and removing age spots. And the fruit acids in the composition are responsible for this. In addition, these acids also have a mild cleansing effect; exfoliating dead cells, the cream fights for breathing pores. Those who have tried the cream note that noticeable improvements in skin condition are observed after just one month of use. It is also acceptable to apply the product to the area around the eyes.

5 Klapp A Classic "Vitamin A"

Klapp A Classic "Vitamin A" cream is designed to care for the delicate skin around the eyes and its composition is recognized as one of the best according to reviews from cosmetology experts. The product contains a rich caring complex consisting of retinol, vitamin E, aloe, wheat germ oil, and beeswax. Aloe vera is the best way to refresh dull skin; retinol promotes enhanced cell renewal; beeswax has an excellent lifting effect and deeply nourishes the skin around the eyes, and also promotes the healing of small cracks.

Wheat germ oil has a stimulating effect on the process of tissue regeneration, softens them and eliminates flaking. The epidermis is actively renewed, resulting in a rejuvenation effect. Tocopherol is a powerful antioxidant that protects skin collagen fibers from aging. Bisabolol is a skin moisturizing and nourishing substance that does not cause allergies even in children.

4 THE FACE SHOP SMIM FIRMING CARE

This face cream is both protective and rejuvenating. The composition includes: adenosine niacinamide, propolis and Tibetan mushroom extracts. Propolis extract, due to the content of organic acids and essential oils, has bactericidal and anti-inflammatory properties. Propolis perfectly heals microcracks and enhances the protective functions of the skin. Tibetan mushroom extract improves elasticity and retains moisture in the skin, and also smoothes microrelief.

Niacinamide is one of the best stimulators of cellular renewal. Thanks to its action, the skin becomes more elastic, wrinkles are reduced, age-related pigmentation disappears, and collagen production increases. The reviews pay special attention to the protective qualities of the cream. The product perfectly protects the skin from weather conditions (wind, direct sunlight, cold), so the face does not dry out or flake.

3 GIGI Retinol Forte Skin Lightening

Face cream from one of the best Israeli cosmetic companies - GIGI, thanks to the presence of retinol in the composition, has a powerful lightening effect on pigmented areas of tissue. Changes of any etiology can be lightened: freckles, scars (including post-operative scars), traces of post-acne, chloasma. In addition to retinol, kojic acid and bearberry extract are responsible for the brightening properties, which prevent the production of melanin (darkening pigment).

Azelaic acid has an antimicrobial and sebum-regulating effect, so the use of GIGI Retinol Forte Skin Lightening cream will be appropriate in the treatment of acne. Glycolic acid contained in the cream perfectly exfoliates dead skin cells. A great advantage will be the ability to apply the cream to the area around the eyes, and it is in this area that pigmentation is often present.

2 SesDerma Retises Eye Contour

This retinol cream is designed specifically for lifting the skin around the eyes. The cosmetic product, according to consumer reviews, reduces bags under the eyes, lightens dark circles, and eliminates a “tired” look. In addition to retinol, the cream contains a stable form of vitamin C, hibiscus extract, and boswellic acids. Vitamin C is the best antioxidant for facial skin, which protects tissue from premature aging.

Boswellic acid is known as one of the best antioxidants. Hibiscus extract has a beneficial effect on the skin around the eyes due to its tonic effect; with daily use, the balance of fluid in the tissues is regulated and their swelling goes away. Another property of hibiscus is the stimulation of collagen synthesis, thanks to this a rejuvenating effect is achieved, because the skin weakened by bags begins to tighten and the blue color disappears from it.

1 Ericson Laboratoire Nourishing Cream With Fresh Caviar Cells

The cream perfectly restores tissue, stimulates cell regeneration, increases skin elasticity and tightens the oval of the face. It contains an unusual component - caviar concentrate. Caviar is known for the presence of unsaturated fatty acids, which are simply necessary to maintain healthy facial skin. Shea butter softens the skin and also nourishes it with acids and vitamins. Mango butter has an antioxidant effect (protection from the harmful effects of the environment).

Tritisol is a complex of hydrolyzed wheat proteins that help maintain the optimal pH level of the epidermis. This complex has an activating effect on collagen production. By the way, laboratory studies have shown that the new collagen fibers produced are much stronger than the old ones, which is why the likelihood of new wrinkles is minimized, which is confirmed by reviews from those who have tried it.

Retinol in cosmetics.

Nowadays, every glossy magazine is replete with the slogans “Take your vitamins!” They are useful not only for our body, but also for the skin; cosmetologists everywhere use vitamins in cosmetic products, retinol is no exception.

Retinol is a special form of vitamin A. It is perfect for treating acne, reducing wrinkles, and slowing down aging. Initially, retinol accelerated the healing of wounds on the skin that appeared as a result of cosmetic procedures. Experts continued to study retinol; during research, it was found that it can smooth the skin, increase its elasticity and fight rashes.

If you use a product with this component every day, then you can see the filling and smoothing of small wrinkles. But with retinol it’s not so simple, because... There are several forms of it, some of which are more effective, others less.

As we have already said, retinol is only one of the forms of vitamin A. A group of drugs that includes various forms and derivatives of vitamin A, as well as its structural and synthetic analogs, are called retinoids. To rejuvenate facial skin in cosmetology, as a rule, the following forms of vitamin A (retinoids) are used:

1. true retinol.
2. Retinol esters (retinol acetate, retinol palmitate, etc.).
3. Retinaldehyde.
4. Retinoic acid.

Thus, true retinol and the retinol esters most commonly found in cosmetics are completely different forms of vitamin A.

The only effective form of vitamin A that can affect skin cells is pure retinoic acid. All other listed forms of vitamin A, after application to the skin, must still be converted into retinoic acid (through cycles of chemical transformation) before they can act on skin cells. Those. Most retinoids are only precursors to retinoic acid.

How does it work?

Fight acne – this occurs due to the fact that retinoic acid eliminates hyperkeratosis of the epithelium of hair follicles, which consists of excessive accumulation of desquamated epithelial cells in the lumen of the follicle, which leads to clogging of pores with comedones (acne). Secondly, retinoic acid helps reduce the production of secretions from the sebaceous glands, and also dissolves the substance that makes up acne, which helps cleanse the pores. This is why retinoids are the best acne treatment.

Reduces the thickness of the superficial stratum corneum epidermis by accelerating the exfoliation of dead cells, which allows the skin to have a more even texture and look younger.

Increases the thickness of the deep layers of the epidermis, thereby increasing its hydrophobic properties (thus reducing the evaporation of moisture from the surface of the skin, which will maintain its hydration).

Enhances collagen and elastin production in the dermal layer of the skin (due to stimulation of fibroblast function). Accordingly, it helps reduce the depth of wrinkles and fine lines on the face, and also increases skin elasticity.

Try an anti-aging cream with retinol, which actively fights the signs of aging, reduces the depth of wrinkles, corrects facial contours, and increases skin firmness and elasticity. Intensively whitens the skin, lightens pigmentation and freckles, reduces the visibility of post-acne and redness. Evens out skin tone, fights dullness and grayness, gives the face a brightness and healthy appearance.

Also, a moisturizing and restoring cream with retinol would be an excellent product for the eyelids and area around the eyes. It smoothes and firms the skin around the eyes and nasolabial area, enhances collagen production in the epidermis, restores skin elasticity and brightens dull skin under the eyes. The cream stimulates cell regeneration, making the skin under the eyes young, full of energy and healthy.

The benefits of retinol.

1. Stimulates the process of restoration of collagen and elastin present in skin cells, without causing potential damage and irritation to the skin.
2. Fights signs of aging and age spots.
3. Enhances the production of hyaluronic acid.

Cons of retinol

1. Side effects.
2. For people with sensitive skin, it is best to use natural anti-aging cosmetics to face minimal unwanted effects.
3. Redness of the skin.
4. Irritation and burning sensation.
5. There is increased sensitivity to sunlight.