You will be surprised, but there is also a fashion for cosmetic ingredients. True, it is not due to what was shown to us on the catwalks of Paris-Milan-London at the beginning of the season, but to scientific discoveries. One of the latter is a molecule called madecassoside.
What it is
Madecassoside is called an extract of centella asiatica (aka gotu kola, aka tiger grass) - a plant that is found in India, China, Indonesia, and Madagascar. In fact, this is not just an extract, but an independent active component isolated from centella. That is, in the list of ingredients on the packaging of a cream or serum it will be written - Madecassoside.
First of all, we should thank the developers of the La Roche-Posay brand formulas, as well as the Koreans who adore advanced technologies, for the popularization of madecassoside. Local brand A’Pieu even released an entire line of products bearing the name of this molecule.
What is he doing
“Centella asiatica leaf extract helps heal minor wounds and burns, restores skin cells, normalizes water-salt and fat metabolism, increases skin firmness and elasticity,” lists the beneficial properties of the plant Natalia Medvedeva, dermatologist, medical expert of the La Roche-Posay brand .
As for madecassoside itself, it is easier to say what it is not capable of. Because the list of his skills is:
- stimulates collagen synthesis, which means it makes the skin dense and elastic;
- fights free radicals;
- has an anti-inflammatory effect;
- weakens UV radiation;
- improves blood flow, has lipolytic properties.
Who will find it useful?
All this means that cosmetics with madecassoside will be useful to everyone.
- Residents of megacities - against attacks from harmful environmental factors.
- Vacationers at resorts - so that the sun's rays do not age the skin as much as they could.
- For older women - to reduce wrinkles and sagging skin.
- For perfectionists - to combat cellulite and anything in general, from crow’s feet to rosacea.
- For men - for speedy healing of the skin after shaving.
Does the substance have any disadvantages?
Madecassoside is considered a safe molecule, and even in the authoritative database of beauty ingredients Cosmobase, characteristics such as “carcinogenicity”, “allergenicity”, “immunotoxicity”, “danger during pregnancy” are listed as zero. So the forecasts for use are more than pleasant.
Superheroes in the world of cosmetics are products that can handle anything! Scope of application: everywhere and at once, anytime and anywhere. For whom - "suitable for everyone."
In other words, if you're not particularly good at one thing, why not take the "I'm good at a little bit of everything" approach.
What does this cream promise: Softening, nutrition and hydration, reducing the appearance of age-related changes, restoring smoothness, firmness and elasticity, strengthening and protection from damage, anti-inflammatory effect, etc.
It is almost impossible to figure out what exactly this cream is for and what skin it is for. "Problematic, sensitive, dry skin, suitable for any skin type.."and so on ad infinitum. Everything is due to the varied composition of the product.
Volume 50ml Volume 50ml
I like the packaging design. In the spirit of pharmaceutical cosmetics with a hint of some kind of healing ointment. But in life it turned out that in a sleepy state easily confused with a tube of toothpaste.
Despite this funny drawback, the packaging is very pleasant: a soft 50 ml tube that does not leave strong creases, kinks or cracks. It is pleasing to the eye and fits well into the bathroom.
I carefully went through all the reviews for this product, and 90% of consumers assure that this is simply an amazing cream and one of the best on their shelf. There were also preliminary tests on the hand, and not just once.
To be honest, the test on my hand was wonderful, the skin instantly became soft, straight deliciously soft.
I wanted to stroke and touch the place where the cream was. 😍 Not greasy, unique, seemingly not sticky.
This is not a cream in the classical sense, but it is not a gel either. Doesn't melt, doesn't spread, doesn't leave a typical oily sheen, not dense, not slimy like a snail. Quite pliable. The texture visually resembles Voltaren ointment. It seems quite light, but when applied to the skin it has extraordinary tenacity. The coverage area is small. Because of this, you want to apply a lot of it, since it is distributed without this visual airiness. It’s difficult to rub one pea all over your face.
The aroma is light, floral and herbaceous. Dissipates quickly.
It absolutely does not lie on a wet face (toners, water-based serums). If your face is even the slightest bit wet, it will slide across it and stay on your fingers. You cannot walk over it with thermal water; it will not be absorbed.
I applied the cream to my hand, walked with it for 10-15 minutes, rinsed water, but he didn’t get away. There remains some kind of invisible, but really tangible barrier. The stickiness is gone, the slight shine is gone, but the barrier is there, you can feel it tactilely. It's light, but it's definitely there. “Paraffinized/coated with wax” - I don’t know how to describe what I see and feel. This feeling can only be removed with a wash. In other words, just wash it off thoroughly.
It’s a good idea to use it as a finish after all the serums (after letting them dry first), since there is no chance for them not to be absorbed overnight. You wash your face in the morning and realize that you have nothing to wash off. The face is not slippery. Everything was really absorbed! All cosmetics under the barrier of this cream are now 100% in your skin.
Sometimes the cream reacts with some serums (if I'm not mistaken, it was lactic acid) and turns into a single mass. In other words, it no longer becomes a top coat, but is now one with what was applied before.
- Stickiness
- Incredible softness
- Feeling like a mask
I went to analyze the composition after using this cream during my daily routine. completely refused to soak into my face. An hour/two/three... time to go to bed, but my face was still sticky. Washing your face with water to remove this feeling is still stupid, but effective. Of course, during sleep, all the stickiness remained on the pillow. But no, I'm not happy with that. And going outside is not an option at all - all the dust is yours. Needless to say, it is extremely difficult to apply makeup on it ☹️
And yet, this cream scares me!
What exactly? - 1) a sticky mask that it creates on the face 2) a component that forms this mask 3) its composition as a whole 4) possible consequences (clogged pores)
Let's talk about the composition:
On the front side of the cream, 2 of the 37 ingredients that the manufacturer calls are highlighted in bold text. "main active components"
- madecassoside 0.1%
- Centella asiatica leaf water 40%
In fact, centella water is a large part of the cream, and madecassoside is on the list of ingredients further10th positionand in an extremely ridiculous dosage. I would focus on Niacinamide, since it is in the top of the first ingredients.
Moreover, the composition itself as a whole is far from the safest and most pleasant, although it is rich in beautiful names. And even with a cursory glance, an ordinary buyer will doubt “is it worth it?”
Film-forming components — Dimethicone Crosspolymer and PEG dimethicone, which are in the first half of the list.
Here are the culprits of the stickiness and mask effect 😑 Which, by the way, can cause clogged pores.
They are responsible for softness - Propanediol, Phenyltrimethicone, Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Panthenol, etc.
These components are at the top of the list and only one of them is natural. It is their saints who give this momentary softness and smoothness.
Natural ingredients: green tea and witch hazel extracts, adenosine, lactic acid, etc.
Conclusions: This cream didn't ruin my skin, but it didn't improve it either. It turned out to be unpleasant to use and wear, causing discomfort.
Revitalizing cream with madecassoside for face