Aha acids for the face - how they work (English)

August 29, 2018
Other drugs
Alexa Loktionova

Cosmetology as a separate branch of official medicine is developing at an exorbitant speed, which cannot but please representatives of the fair half of humanity. Take AHA acids, for example. These are substances that help to perfectly cleanse the skin, penetrating into its deepest layers. Not only the condition of the dermis depends on this, but also the ability to prevent the occurrence of wrinkles over a certain period of time. It is believed that AHA is the real elixir of youth that cosmetologists have been looking for for so long. Whether this is really so will be discussed in this article.

What are AHA acids?

Alpha hydroxy acids, or fruit acids, are natural substances with increased biological activity. They are found in sugar cane, fruits, wine and milk. AHAs are synthetically extracted from these foods. Today, acids are effectively used both in cosmetology and in the cosmetics industry, and they can also be used at home. Due to their positive effect on the skin, acids contribute to its ideal cleansing, which delays the appearance of the first wrinkles.

Varieties

There are many different acids that have a beneficial effect on the skin. These include vitamins and amino acids. In our question, AHA acids are of greatest interest. The most popular of them:

glycolic;
tartare;
phytic;
almond;
lemon;
sorrel;
apple;
ferulic;
vinegar

Beneficial effects on the skin

What is so remarkable about these substances, and why have they earned popularity in cosmetology procedures and the cosmetic industry? Alpha hydroxy acids have a beneficial effect on the skin, which is expressed by reducing the appearance of facial wrinkles, eliminating dark spots (pigmentation, post-acne) and removing dead cells. AHA acids are suitable for any skin type. They facilitate the penetration of other cosmetic products into the deeper layers, and therefore the effectiveness of the drugs increases significantly. In addition to the fact that fruit acids are suitable for all skin types, they do not yet have age restrictions. Of course, there is no point in using them before the age of 18, but at the age of 20 and even up to 100 years, they can have a positive impact.

If we talk specifically about the effects of AHA, it can have an incredible effect. For example, peelings with fruit acids promote:

reducing the appearance of wrinkles;
improving the appearance of the skin, namely texture and tone;
relieving swelling due to the ability of acids to remove excess fluid;
normalization of the acid-base balance and regulation of the secretion of the sebaceous glands;
alleviation of the course of dermatological diseases;
cleansing and narrowing pores;
increasing skin resistance to aggressive environmental factors;
strengthening the blood vessels of the face;
eliminating dullness, flaking, the appearance of scars and stretch marks.

Alpha hydroxy acids stimulate the production of collagen, due to which, with regular use, the skin becomes more elastic and its natural beauty returns. Therefore, the effectiveness of AHA in cosmetology cannot be underestimated.

The harm that fruit AHAs can cause

Along with the positive effects, you can also expect a negative effect from the use of this substance. If there are contraindications that were not taken into account before using acids, this will lead to manifestations of skin hypersensitivity. The same effect can be achieved when used in the wrong concentration, greater than necessary.

To avoid damaging your skin, it is important to use AHAs responsibly. If you have no experience using the products, you should definitely consult a dermatologist. The doctor will determine the use of acids, recommend the best methods of use, and determine a safe and effective dosage.

Use of AHAs in the cosmetic industry: where they are contained and how to find them on the label

Many different branded drugs are created based on alpha hydroxy acids. For example, you can find AHA acids for the face in the following cosmetics categories:

for problem skin – serums, creams, masks, tonics;
anti-aging – serums, masks, creams;
exfoliating – exfoliants, masks, peelings.

The most popular include peeling lotion Quadro Multi-Application Jet Lotion from GiGi (Israel), toning and cleansing milk Tone Up Milk Peel from Tony Moly (Korea), Aqua AHA-Peeling Toner from A'Pieu (Korea), fruit gel -scrub Aha Fruit Gel from Aravia (Russia).

How can you tell if a product contains AHA? It is necessary to carefully study the label. The composition will include the following substances:

glycolic acid – glycolic ac >

The most effective and in demand today is peeling with glycolic AHA acid. These substances cleanse the skin to the deepest layers, thanks to the keratolytic effect. Peeling is done using different acids, but it is fruit acids that have the most beneficial effect, and in terms of effectiveness they largely prevail over other substances. This peeling can be superficial, medium and deep. The choice depends on the desired result.

When is AHA use prohibited?

First, before using substances, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of an allergic reaction associated with intolerance to one or more of them. Secondly, before use you should definitely consult a dermatologist or cosmetologist. Thirdly, the use of AHAs is prohibited after or before prolonged exposure to the sun and in the presence of injured areas. Acids increase the skin's photosensitivity, which can negatively affect its condition.

Peels with AHA acids are also not recommended in the following cases:

period of pregnancy and lactation;
presence of warts;
hemophilia;
herpes in the acute stage;
infectious diseases;
presence of rosacea network;
state of fever;
pigmentary cirrhosis;
severe inflammatory process on the skin;
benign and malignant neoplasms;
severe skin diseases;
taking serious medications.

It is also not recommended to resort to this procedure in cases where less than a week has passed after hair removal, deep peeling, laser resurfacing and other cosmetic procedures.

Is it possible to use it at home?

You can often use AHAs and BHAs on your face on your own. BHA is salicylic acid, which is also often used both for peelings and for the creation of specialized cosmetics. But it has a slightly different purpose. Since this substance is a derivative of acetylsalicylic acid, BHA has an anti-inflammatory and healing effect, promotes the destruction of protein bonds between dead cells in order to remove them.

Fruit and salicylic acids in the form of concentrated solutions in ampoules can be purchased in specialized stores and online resources. However, it is not recommended to carry out peelings using them yourself, since without appropriate experience you can do a lot of harm. It is best to use the substances for preparing washes and masks. In any case, before use, you will need to consult a specialist.

Independent use of AHA and BHA excludes use in pure form. Their use is not recommended in summer, when there is a lot of sun, since during this period it will still not be possible to achieve special effectiveness. The ampoules should also be stored away from sunlight. It is important to remember that milk, scrub, lotion, tonic, serum or other product prepared independently from acids is used immediately after preparation. If you plan to store it in the refrigerator, the product's shelf life will be no more than 10 days. In general, it is better not to experiment with your skin, and at least get advice from a specialist. In general, for this there are cosmetologists who will carry out the procedure effectively, correctly and safely.

Feedback on the effectiveness of AHA

What can you see in the comments? As reviews show, AHA acids, both as part of professional cosmetics and in the form of salon procedures, are very popular. Most often they are used by girls who want to even out their complexion, get rid of dark spots, and also tighten their skin and make it more attractive. Fruit acids are truly highly effective substances, the effects of which will please even the most capricious girl.

Hello my dears! Today's post is for those who don't yet understand why it's cool to have the abbreviation AHA or BHA on cosmetic product labels. And if you haven’t used acids in cosmetic products yet, it’s time to read the article and immediately run to the beauty salon for some good shopping!

So, a paragraph of tediousness. AHA and BHA are hydroxy acids. Only these two groups of acids are used in cosmetology as keratolytics - substances that exfoliate dead epidermal cells. Marketers decided to replace the incomprehensible word “keratolytics” with a more attractive and understandable word for the common people - “fruit acids”. Over time, “fruit acids” began to be replaced with AHAs.

Thanks to the action of ANA, fibroblasts divide more actively - these are connective tissue cells that play a very important role for us: they help the rest of the skin cells to regenerate more actively and eliminate various skin defects, including age-related wrinkles. AHA also stimulates the production of collagen, which is part of the intercellular substance of the dermis.

AHAs are called fruit acids for a reason: they are obtained from sugars in fruits (for the most part), some plants and biological substances. For example, citric acid comes from lemons and other citrus fruits, malic acid comes from apples, and tartaric acid comes from grapes. But lactic and glycolic acids are obtained from sour milk and sugar cane, respectively.

In the cosmetics and cosmetology industry, only six acids are classified as AHAs: glycolic, lactic, citric, malic, tartaric and mandelic acids. From the point of view of molecular structure, chemists classify citric and malic acids as beta hydroxy acids BHA. Although cosmetologists classify only salicylic acid as BHA, and nothing else.

What AHA acids will do to your face:

moisturize;
exfoliate dead cells;
guarantee an anti-aging effect (not like cosmetic procedures, but still slow down the aging process);
lighten;
will provide cells with “doping” in regeneration and antioxidant protection;
will add a “kick” to collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid so that it is produced faster;
will increase firmness and elasticity.

What BHA (salicylic) acid will do to your face:

deal with germs and inflammation;
will prevent acne formation;
it will clean the pores well and deeply, and will also dissolve fat there;
will reduce oily skin and generally tidy up the functioning of the sebaceous glands.

Well, as we see, salicylic acid also has something to boast about over AHA acids.

And one more important point that you can easily remember: BHA is fat-soluble, and AHA is water-soluble. What does it mean? And the fact that initially salicylic acid works deeper with the skin and penetrates into the pores, while AHA does not. However, the higher the concentration of acids, the closer they come to the dermis.

AHA acids are used for photoaging, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, good hydration, post-acne. But all this applies to those who have normal or dry skin. Fruit acids are most likely not suitable for problem skin. Here it is worth taking a closer look at salicylic acid. Well, with oily skin, I think everything is clear.

Here I have briefly and succinctly outlined everything about AHA and BHA acids, without water. If you liked the article, give it a thumbs up and subscribe to my channel.

For any questions, write to me in private messages.

Aha acids for the face - how they work

Exfoliation, or the more familiar word for us “exfoliation”: a daily necessity. Our skin is not able to completely get rid of the stratum corneum of dead cells on its own, and if it is not helped, they will accumulate in a layer on the surface of the skin, interfering with the beneficial effects of your skincare products and preventing oxygen from entering the epidermis.

Daily use of an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) or beta hydroxy acid (BHA) helps remove dead skin cells, even out skin tone, and make it smooth and soft.

What are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)?

Alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble substances that act as chemical, rather than physical, exfoliants. They help in the process of removing old skin cells, which are replaced by new, fresh ones. For this reason, AHAs are great ingredients for people with dry, dull or uneven complexions, or damaged or sensitive skin.

These ingredients can also help boost the effectiveness of other skin care products you use, since exfoliating the skin of dirt and makeup residue makes it easier for the products to penetrate the skin, which will help them do the most good.

What are beta hydroxy acids?

Beta hydroxy acids are lipid-soluble substances, which means they are able to penetrate the skin through the sebaceous glands. This characteristic makes BHAs suitable ingredients for people with oily skin, which is why salicylic acid, the most common skincare BHA, is often used to treat acne. Unlike AHAs, BHAs are generally more beneficial when they are present in low concentrations in skin care products. Therefore, seeing salicylic acid listed in the middle or end of the ingredients list on your acne cream is normal and even preferred.

How do acids work?

Both BHAs and AHAs have excellent exfoliating abilities (removing dead skin cells), but AHAs work by reacting with the top layer of the epidermis to weaken the binding properties of the lipids that hold dead skin cells together. This allows the outer shell to “dissolve”, revealing the underlying skin. Exfoliants begin the production of new skin cells. AHAs are also thought to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, roughness and age-related pigmentation, and may also stimulate collagen and elastin production in the skin.

In cosmetics, active AHA acids are usually mentioned in second or third place. Such products will most likely contain the recommended concentration of 5-8%. There are several different types of AHAs, most of which are fruit and lactic acids. Here is a list of the 5 most active AHA acids:

Glycolic acid - sugar cane;
Lactic acid - milk;
Malic acid - apples and pears;
Citric acid - oranges and lemons;
Tartaric acid - grapes.

Glycolic and lactic acids penetrate the skin a little better than others, so you'll see these AHAs in products more often.

How do BHA acids work?

Indeed, there is only one type of BHA acid widely used in the skin care industry, and that is salicylic acid. Like AHAs, BHA works well as an exfoliant, penetrating deep into pores to slough off dead skin cells to make room for new ones. After six months of daily use, BHA has been shown in clinical studies to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, skin texture and pigmentation caused by sun damage.

If AHA acids work at a higher concentration, since they are softer, then at the same time with BHA acid everything is different, it itself is very concentrated. Therefore, you should not look for it in the first three ingredients. Look for it in the middle or at the bottom of the product ingredients list. BHA in skin care products usually works best at a concentration of about 1-2%.

What to choose: BHA or AHA?

AHA acid is an ideal choice for those with sensitive and dry skin. AHA group acids are not able to penetrate deep into pores, therefore they do not cause dehydration and irritation.

BHAs are ideal for acne-prone skin because BHA acids are able to penetrate deep into pores and unclog them. BHA acids also help tighten pores and have antiseptic and skin soothing effects. BHA acids are also one of the most effective remedies in the fight against rosacea.

While both AHAs and BHAs can be beneficial in skin care, you need to decide which results you want.

For example, if you want:

Minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles;
Improve the appearance of facial tone and skin texture;
Get rid of dull skin.

In this case, AHA acids are your best friend.

But if you want:

Balance the sebum content on your skin;
Treat blackheads, subcutaneous skin and acne.

Then definitely choose BHA acid.

How to get the most benefit from using AHA and BHA acids?

Apply an AHA or BHA exfoliant after using your cleanser (foam, balm) or toner.
You can use it around the eye area, but not on the eyelid or directly under the eye (along the lower lash line).
You don't have to wait for BHA or AHA products to dry on your skin; apply any other product (serum, eye cream or sunscreen) immediately after applying the exfoliant.
Experiment with different AHAs and BHAs to see what concentration of the ingredient in the product gives you the best results.
How often you should exfoliate your skin with AHA or BHA acids depends on your skin type. Typically, those with oily skin will benefit from using an AHA or BHA exfoliant twice a day, every day. Those with dry or sensitive skin are advised to use such products once a day or every other day. Check what works best for you.

Advice: if your AHA or BHA product has a water-like texture, apply it with a cotton pad; if it is lotion or gel, apply it with your fingers.

Why don't I just use a scrub or cleansing brush to exfoliate my skin?

Most scrubs have a rough, uneven texture that can be too harsh and abrasive, causing micro-tears in the skin. Many scrubbing brushes are also a problem because they have stiff bristles and have the same negative impact on the vulnerable surface of the skin.

The exception is gentle exfoliants and gentle cleansing brushes, but even these are best used as an additional cleansing step and are not a replacement for what a properly formulated AHA or BHA exfoliant can do. Scrubs simply don't work as deeply or effectively as AHA and BHA exfoliants!

Does using BHA or AHA increase your sensitivity to UV radiation?

Whenever you exfoliate your skin with scrubs, brushes, AHAs or BHAs, you are removing layers of dead skin. Dead skin provides you with little UV protection on its own, so in some ways it does become more vulnerable. However, this problem can be solved by simply using sunscreen every day, which will not only protect it from photoaging, but also moisturize it.

Aha acids for the face - how they work (English)