Hydrolyzed collagen in cosmetics

Requested by Marie Claire Chief technologist of the laboratory of modern cosmetics MIXIT Galina Ryazanova repeated why collagen is so important for the skin, and talked about what types of collagen there are, how to slow down its loss and how to replenish it with the help of cosmetics. So, first a little educational program.

The condition of the skin directly depends on collagen ─ the basis of connective tissue, which is responsible for the elasticity of the skin. In the skin, collagen is found primarily in the dermal layer (in other words, in its “base”) and makes up about 70% of all skin tissue proteins. The main task of collagen is to maintain skin turgor. Thanks to collagen, the skin is smooth and elastic - without wrinkles. Collagen, like elastin, helps the skin maintain its ability to “elastic deformation”, i.e. ability to recover from visible changes under load. We are talking about the speed with which creases from a hard pillowcase disappear after a sleepless night or, for example, a network of facial wrinkles around the eyes disappears after an overly emotional dialogue. Collagen stabilizes our facial oval in the shape of a “beauty triangle”, preventing it from floating and falling down. With the help of collagen, the skin can regulate its water-lipid balance and does not dry out.

The skin can return to its original state when pressed or stretched ─ this is its natural property, and collagen is responsible for it.

After 25 years, natural collagen production decreases by an average of 1.5% per year, and after 40 years, collagen in skin cells is consumed at a very rapid rate. Smoking, love of fast food and tanning, constant stress and lack of sleep increase the likelihood of disruption of collagen synthesis in skin cells. With age, this leads to the accumulation of damaged collagen, and is visually manifested in the fact that the skin “sags” unevenly, the oval becomes flabby, and wrinkles appear on the face. Our main goal is to maintain the level of collagen necessary for the skin, maintaining it over time in all possible ways.

What place should it be in the lineup?

It all depends on the type of collagen (more on them later) and the direction of the cosmetic product. For classic formulations, the collagen dosage ranges from 0.5% to 5%. But there are so-called “collagen sheets”, consisting of 100% collagen - their mechanism is somewhat similar to fabric masks with alginate components. In creams, gels and fluids, collagen is usually located “somewhere in the center”.

Types of collagen

Collagen in cosmetics can be designated as:

Collagen (Native Collagen). Most often, this type of collagen is used in creams as a film-forming substance to retain water inside skin cells. It is also used in hair products - shampoos, conditioners. Such collagen has a large molecular weight and cannot penetrate deep into the skin.

Soluble Collagen. This type of collagen is obtained from animal connective tissue. It moisturizes the skin well, improves its elasticity, and protects against stress factors.

Atellocollagen (Soluble Marine Collagen). In their structure, the molecules of hydrolyzed fish collagen are similar to our own collagen and can easily penetrate into deep tissues. Once in the dermis, amino acids stimulate active cell renewal.

Hydrolyzed Collagen. The amino acids glycine, proline and lysine predominate in this type of collagen. This collagen is used in cosmetics as an additive to your own collagen when it is deficient in the body. It can be found in moisturizing creams and the entire range of lifting products.

"Plant collagen" ─ this is a myth. There is no natural plant collagen, and there is nothing wrong with products containing so-called “plant collagen.” Usually these are healthy plant proteins, obtained mainly from wheat and algae, which contain the necessary groups of amino acids, are easily absorbed by skin cells and are much less allergenic than natural collagen.

The most effective products with collagen

Where is collagen found? The main products with it are anti-aging creams, serums and lotions, masks for the care of the area around the eyes, care for the neck and décolleté, lifting serums and creams for the face and body, any moisturizers, creams and balms for hands and nails, moisturizing shampoos, conditioners and hair rinses and even hair dye developers.

For the most part, collagen is used to achieve the “Cinderella” effect ─ instant lifting and tone of the skin, or for long-term hydration. Typically, products with a cumulative effect, in addition to collagen, contain a number of active components, including because it will help them to be better absorbed and penetrate deeper into the skin. Therefore, cosmetologists recommend using collagen complexes at once, for example, “serum-cream-mask” with collagen for a pronounced and quick effect.

Are there any contraindications?

There are few of them, but they still exist. This is, first of all, individual intolerance. It is also not recommended to use products with collagen during exacerbation of skin diseases, infectious diseases, manifestations of herpes, or autoimmune diseases. You should not use products with collagen in the first four months of pregnancy to reduce the risk of developing allergies.

Galina Ryazanova is the chief technologist of the laboratory of modern cosmetics MIXIT.

Possible individual intolerance

The component is obtained by processing cartilage, bone tissue, tendons and skin of cattle. Contains amino acids (lysine, glycine, methionine, valine, leucine, etc.). has thermal stability; soluble in water; pH 5.5; universal

Improves the overall condition of the skin: smoothes and evens it out, makes it firm and elastic, removes fine wrinkles and refreshes. It has a wound-healing and soothing effect, retains moisture in the deep layers of the skin. Has a regenerating effect.

Like most hydrolysates, it is an excellent moisturizer, promotes the regeneration and restoration of damaged skin cells, provides it with all necessary nutrients, is effective in rejuvenating the skin and combating age-related changes, heals the skin and restores its structure in the shortest possible time, helps cleanse the skin of dead cells and tightens up a little.

Synonyms: COLLAGEN HYDROLYSATE; COLLAGEN HYDROLYSATE PROTEINS; COLLAGENS, HYDROLYZATES; HYDROLYSATE PROTEINS, COLLAGEN; HYDROLYZED ANIMAL PROTEIN; HYDROLYZED ANIMAL PROTEIN POWDER; HYDROLYZED ANIMAL PROTEIN SOLUTION; PROTEINS, COLLAGEN, HYDROLYSATE; COLATRON; COLLAGENS, HYDROLYZATES; CROTEIN SPO

Collagen, along with hyaluronic acid, is found in one form or another in the vast majority of Korean cosmetics, especially anti-aging ones.

At the same time, not everyone understands what role it plays in cosmetics, what it is like, and how one type of collagen differs from another.

In this article we will try to dot all the i’s.

In a nutshell, collagen is a protein that makes up 80% of the dermis (the middle layer of the skin) and provides strength to the skin.

Special cells - fibroblasts - are responsible for the synthesis of collagen in the skin. Unfortunately, as we age, fibroblasts become less active and less collagen is produced.

In addition to reducing synthesis, collagen is also prone to destruction under the influence of a special enzyme - collagenase.

In addition, the collagen fibers themselves change with age: instead of elasticity, excessive thickness and “stiffness” appear, which leads to the formation of creases, and therefore wrinkles.

Do not forget that external factors also have a huge impact on the state of collagen:

- unbalanced diet with a predominance of sugar (glucose);

What is collagen like?

Collagen in cosmetics can be different:

— Nautical. It is synthesized from the skin of fish and other “sea creatures”. Expensive and “demanding” to produce. Its molecule size is smaller than that of animal collagen. The structure is most similar to “human” collagen.

— Animal. Synthesized from the skin of artiodactyls. It has a large molecular size. Inexpensive to produce and therefore very common.

— Plant collagen. Since collagen is a protein of exclusively animal origin, it simply cannot be plant-based. What is called plant collagen is not actually collagen. Although it should be noted that the structure of plant “collagen” is very similar to “animal” collagen.

And that is not all! Collagen can also be:

— Native - this is “adult”, “full-fledged” collagen, identical to skin collagen.

— Soluble - collagen, which was not allowed to grow to the end and become native. It is synthesized from the skin of young animals. Capable of penetrating the skin.

— Hydrolyzed - collagen, which, as a result of a series of chemical processes, broke down into individual amino acids and peptides. Also able to penetrate the skin.

The role of collagen in cosmetics

So what does collagen do in cosmetics?

Since collagen is able to attract and retain 30 times its own weight in moisture, it perfectly moisturizes the skin, normalizes water balance, prevents dehydration, and also helps soften the skin.

- Reduces the appearance of wrinkles.

Due to its high hygroscopicity, collagen, moisturizing the skin, helps smooth its microrelief.

— Tightens the oval of the face.

Collagen has a pronounced lifting effect.

Collagen has been proven to accelerate wound healing.

— Enhances the effect of other active components.

Collagen increases the effectiveness of the extracts that are also contained in the product.

— Improves hair condition.

Collagen envelops each hair, creates a protective barrier, smoothes keratin scales, gives shine and silkiness.

Collagen, as a component of cosmetics, has no age restrictions as such - everything is very individual. If you have very dry or dehydrated skin that requires effective moisturizing, then collagen products can be used from the age of 24-25. If you have normal, combination or oily skin - from 30-35 years old.

Choose products taking into account the characteristics of your skin and the desired result. Love yourself and be beautiful!