What is acetyl hexapeptide 8?

Argireline (muscle relaxant) is a well-known and proven peptide whose action is based on relaxation of facial muscles, which reduces facial wrinkles and slows down the appearance of new ones, helping to preserve youthful skin. The effect of reducing wrinkles appears after at least 10 days and is much less effective than Botox itself, but is not toxic and there is no risk of side effects like Botox.

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The introduction of biological technologies into cosmetic chemistry and the creation of not only natural, but also safe synthetic components of medicinal and anti-aging cosmetics, which include the argireline peptide, and the possibility of their use in home and professional face and body care have significantly increased the effectiveness of cosmetic products.

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What is argireline

Components of cosmetics for various purposes can be extracts of plant and animal origin, antioxidants and vitamins, growth factors and hydroxy acids, substances with a hormone-like effect and mucopolysaccharides.

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Currently, in the cosmetic industry, synthetic low-molecular peptides as substances of protein origin obtained through the use of new biotechnologies are of particular interest. Their high efficiency is associated with the complex of amino acids from which they are composed, with the molecular weight and structural features of the molecule.

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Properties and principle of functioning of low molecular weight peptides

Low molecular weight peptides, such as argielin, are formed by a chain of amino acids, the number of which does not exceed ten. These protein compounds can be obtained experimentally or be one of the protein fragments present in the human body. For the most part, such substances are small biochemical water-soluble compounds.

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To increase their ability to overcome even intact layers of the stratified epithelium of the skin under production conditions, they are subject to artificial modification. It consists of attaching water-repellent groups of other substances to the peptide fragment, for example, salts of fatty (usually palmitic) or acetic (acetate) acid. In the skin layers, these fragments are separated, and the protein molecules already function according to their properties.

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The mechanism of action of peptide molecules lies in the ability to connect with receptors of cells or other “targets” that perceive this as a “signal” for corresponding processes or changes. For example, if a specific protein is targeted, it moves from an inactive phase to an active one. As a result of this, a whole cascade of multi-stage biochemical responses is launched, leading to corresponding changes in the state of tissues, muscle fibers, organs, etc.

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Mechanism of action of argireline

Facial muscles play a significant role in the formation of age-related changes in the face. The search for means that help reduce the intensity of contraction of facial muscles or their spasm, alternatives to botulinum toxin injections, has led to the emergence of a special category of cosmetic preparations.

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The active principle in them are peptides, which can lead to partial interruption or complete blockade of impulses coming from nerve endings to muscle fibers. These impulses cause muscle contraction or an increase in its tone. That is, blocking peptides lead to paralysis of facial muscles. However, the form of such paralysis is much softer, more delicate, and facial expressions are more natural than when exposed to paralytic toxins, including botulinum in drugs such as Dysport and Xeomin.

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Argireline in cosmetology is currently used against wrinkles (to eliminate them or reduce their severity) as one of the components of many anti-aging cosmetics. This drug went on sale in early 2000. It heads the list of cosmetic products that are “analogues” of Botox (in terms of their effect).

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According to the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI), the chemical name of argireline (trade name of the drug) is acetyl hexapeptide-8. Its amino acid chain of six amino acids is similar to the membrane protein of body cells, the so-called “synaptosomal associated protein 25” (SNAP25). It is one of many protein fragments of the membrane synaptic (synapse - connection, connection) complex called SNARE.

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This complex is a soluble receptor for the attachment of NSF to the cell surface. Thanks to it, the intracellular synaptic vesicle (vesicle) of the nerve ending (axon) merges with the “target” in the form of the presynaptic membrane.

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A SNARE is a transient protein complex formed from many peptides just before the vesicle binds to the membrane. It is necessary for the successful release of the vesicle from the process of the nerve cell to the outer part of the membrane. The fusion of the vesicle with the presynaptic membrane leads to the release of neurotransmitters (chemical biologically active substances) into the synaptic cleft, which transmit an electrical impulse to the muscle, causing contraction of its fibers.

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The synthetic protein argireline, due to its similarity to the SNAP25 protein, competes with the latter and is integrated into SNARE instead, forming a defective complex. As a result, full and sufficient contact of the vesicle with the membrane is impossible. Accordingly, the release of mediators and the transmission of a signal to the muscle for its contraction do not occur. Since there is no impulse, she remains relaxed (relaxed).

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Cosmetic preparations with a relaxant

Thus, cosmetics with argireline are designed to prevent the transmission of signals from nerve endings to facial muscles and maintain the latter in a state of reduced tone, that is, to obtain the Botox effect. These remedies are effective only in cases where wrinkles are formed exclusively by facial muscles. They do not affect wrinkles that have arisen due to structural changes in tissue.

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Therefore, modern anti-aging cosmetic preparations are produced not only with one ingredient, but also in combinations of acetyl hexapeptide-8 with peptides and components that have remodeling properties. The latter improve the condition of the dermal matrix and skin biomechanical characteristics.

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The advantage of the synthetic peptide argireline is its relatively high stability in emulsions and gels, as well as the ability to regulate the passage of this component through the stratum corneum into the dermis.

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The results and degree of effectiveness of the use of low molecular weight peptides are directly dependent not only on the composition of the cream, serum or emulsion, but also on their correct use. How to use such drugs? To achieve the most positive results, it is necessary to adhere to the following basic principles:

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1. preliminary use of keratolytic preparations for high-quality deep cleansing of the skin from keratinized epithelial masses;
2. intensive hydration to increase the permeability of the stratum corneum;
3. creating a protective layer that will provide conditions for reducing water loss through the epidermal skin layer;
4. increasing the degree of blood supply and nutrition of skin cells by improving blood microcirculation in it;
5. maintaining the required concentration of active peptides in the skin throughout the entire course of cosmetic treatment through topical application at certain time intervals.

Combined cosmetics that have a relaxing effect on facial muscles include, for example, the relaxing serum with argireline and hyaluronic acid for the face “Episilk hyalogic. Facial Relax Serum.” The effect of the drug begins to appear after 10 days - two weeks. The reduction in wrinkle depth reaches 50-60% after about 1 month. After the age of 55, the effectiveness of the serum is significantly less due to age-related structural changes in tissues.

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After preparing the skin, the serum is applied twice a day to the same areas that are recommended for botulinum toxin injection - in the area of ​​the outer corners of the eyes and periorbital muscles, eyebrow folds, lips, chin. The course of treatment is 1.5 months, followed by maintenance therapy 1 to 3 times a week for another 1.5 months.

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An example of other combined cosmetic forms is the daytime anti-aging face cream with argireline, antioxidants, hyaluronic acid, grape leaf extract and grape seed oil, with zinc oxide and ultraviolet filters “Crème Optimal. Vine Secret" company "Algologie". The cream is applied in a small amount to the “pads” of the nail phalanges and distributed over the skin of the face and neck with light circular movements along the massage lines.

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Russian face creams with argireline - “Cream-corrector. Smoothing of expression wrinkles”, produced by Novosibirsk LLC “DareVita”, which also includes low molecular weight sodium hyaluronate; cream-gel “Sunlight”, which, in addition to the main component, includes witch hazel.

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In Russia, with this peptide, for example, an alginate mask against expression wrinkles “SPA Alganika” (company “Profi-Plfnet”), a gel mask “Natural Element” with cornflower flower extract, elastin and hyaluronic acid, and a serum “Sunlight” are also produced. .

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Today, cosmetic chemistry in relation to the physiology of the body, based on scientific research and using technological advances in the field of synthesis of low molecular weight peptides, is increasingly reaching a new, higher level of its development.

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Argireline is a synthetic low-molecular peptide, a biologically safe alternative to Botox. The peptide is used as anti-aging therapy, prevention of the first signs of aging, representing worthy competition to botulinum toxin and Dysport.

The essence of peptides

Medical cosmetology is at a new biotechnological stage of development, achieving the effectiveness and safety of the ingredients used. Therefore, peptides are of great importance for cosmetology. Their molecules have a given bioactivity, so the effectiveness of peptide drugs can be predicted in advance. Peptide is a water-soluble biochemical compound.

In order for such substances to overcome the lipid barrier of the skin, they are modified. To do this, the peptide fragment is supplemented with salts of fatty palmitic and acetic acid. After penetration into the tissue, the fragment is separated, and the protein performs its functions. Peptide molecules act on cells of tissues, muscles, and organs by triggering several multi-stage biochemical reactions. This happens due to the ability of peptide molecules to activate protein synthesis and play the role of an information carrier for the body.

Action of argireline

The drug is created from purified protein from animal nervous tissue. It appears as a slightly oily, colorless liquid that can dissolve in water. Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-3) is a sequence of 6 amino acids. Facial folds are formed as a result of contractile muscle activity. The prerequisite for this is acetylcholine released from the vesicle into the synoptic cleft. Next, the fusion of the vesicle and the outer membrane begins with the participation of a complex of proteins: SNAP-25, VAMP, Syntaxin.

Hexapeptide is able to replace the SNAP protein. Due to the incorporation of argireline into the protein complex (SNARE), the conductivity of the nerve impulse into the working muscle of the face decreases. The resulting defective complex of proteins with argireline prevents the exocytosis of acetylcholine, preventing its release into the synoptic cleft.

The most effective areas of application of argireline – areas of frequent muscle contractions (forehead, corners of lips and eyes, between the eyebrows). Due to the lack of impulse to contract muscle fibers, their tone decreases and the folds straighten out. But wrinkles formed due to structural deformations of the skin are not affected by the hexapeptide. Argireline slows down the excess production of catecholamines (adrenaline, norepinephrine), which provoke the formation of facial wrinkles. By relaxing facial expressions, it also prolongs the work of hyaluronic acid. This allows wrinkles to remain filled with it longer.

Despite the similarity of the effect, argireline differs from botulinum toxin in lower activity. It has the property of slowing down the conduction of a nerve impulse instead of completely blocking it. This allows you to maintain natural facial expressions. It also has the advantage of being non-toxic and lacking an addictive effect.

Cosmetics with argireline

To obtain the maximum result from the local muscle relaxation procedure, it is necessary to observe the correct application technology. Argireline can be a component of the formulations of emulsions, gels, serums, and creams. The drug is used locally on problem areas, as well as delicate areas (eyes, lips). You can use it in its pure form or mix it with face cream. Serum with argireline, aloe vera, collagen is an anti-aging anti-wrinkle liquid sold at the pharmacy. It can be added to the cream.

A ready-made professional product has the best effect. The most popular are combination drugs with the effect of muscle relaxation. For example, “Episilk hyalogic. Facial Relax Serum contains argireline together with hyaluronic acid. The result becomes noticeable after 10 days, and after a month the depth of wrinkles decreases by 50–60%. Argireline in combination with antioxidants and hyaluronic acid is found in CremeOptimal. VineSecret." The ingredients also include seed oil and grape leaf extract, zinc oxide, and UV protection. The Russian manufacturer offers “Cream-corrector. Smoothing facial wrinkles." The component composition is represented by argireline, low molecular weight sodium hyaluronate. Gel “Sunlight” is supplemented with witch hazel extract.

An alginate mask with argireline has a quick anti-aging effect. The main active components are:

1. polysaccharide alginic acid from brown seaweed;
2. hexapeptide;
3. hyaluronic acid;
4. acetyl hexapeptide-8 (argireline).

For home use, you can buy it at the Algomask pharmacy. The mask activates blood circulation, smoothes wrinkles, tightens pores and fills the skin with moisture. The result appears after 3 days.

Methods of using argireline

The anti-aging effect of argireline can be obtained in several ways of administering the drug:

1. superficial;
2. using ultrasound;
3. injection.

Surface application method

The initial stage consists of preparing the skin with keratolytic agents. The saponification and dissolution method allows you to deeply cleanse the skin. After manipulation, the stratum corneum is leveled and its permeability increases. Then the skin is moisturized and a concentrate with biologically active oligopeptides, including acetyl hexapeptide-3, is applied.

Application is carried out precisely on places of intense facial activity. After 10 minutes, you can observe the first signs of skin smoothing. After a month of regular use of the drug, it is recommended to take a break. The very first session gives a cumulative effect that lasts about 7–12 hours. Discontinuation of the drug leads to the disappearance of the achieved results.

Ultrasound method

Ultrasonic exposure is applied after applying the drug to clean, dry facial skin. The necessary areas are treated with an ultraphonophoresis device. Ultrasound vibrations promote loosening of the connective tissue of the dermis and deeper penetration of beneficial substances into the skin. The rejuvenating effect is enhanced many times over, but lasts for about 12 hours. Canceling the effect leads to loss of the achieved skin condition. The course consists of about 10 sessions, after which there is a two-week break. Then the course of procedures must be repeated.

Injection administration

The introduction of argireline by injection is carried out in its pure form (subcutaneously, less often intramuscularly), or by mesotherapy. Administration of the drug in its pure form is accompanied by pain and is less effective than Botox. The most commonly used method is mesotherapy. Argireline in the component composition of the meso cocktail acts together with hyaluronic acid, silicon and other substances. The synthetic peptide Leuphasyl (leufasil) forms a powerful anti-aging symbiosis with argireline.

A specialist will be able to select an individual meso-cocktail composition for each client. The targeted action of highly concentrated injections with hexapeptides allows you to influence the deeper layers of the skin. 3 to 5 sessions may be required. The results of the procedures last for 1–4 months.

Indications

Argireline complex preparations are used to eliminate the following factors:

1. expression wrinkles;
2. age-related changes;
3. crow's feet, double chin;
4. defects from exposure to ultraviolet radiation;
5. impaired lymph circulation;
6. small scars, cicatrices.

It must be remembered that hexapeptide has only a cosmetic effect and does not change the structure of the skin.

Benefits of using Argireline

Regularly used, the product makes wrinkles appear smaller by gently relaxing the muscles. Penetrating into the basal layer of the epidermis, it affects nerve endings, relaxes muscles, leaving facial expressions natural. The main advantages of argireline:

1. no ptosis;
2. stability in gels and emulsions;
3. no consequences;
4. does not irritate the skin even in strong concentrations;
5. painless application;
6. possibility of administration by several methods.

External application of an oil-in-water emulsion with a 10% peptide content reduces the activity of facial expressions by 30% over a month of use. The advantages and effectiveness of argireline are reflected in positive reviews from people.

Contraindications and side effects

Reasons to avoid using argireline:

1. pregnancy, lactation;
2. blood clotting problems;
3. chronic diseases in the acute stage;
4. high body temperature;
5. dermatological diseases, inflammation, open wounds.

Despite its safety, side effects are sometimes observed, especially after the injection form of administration. There may be bruising, swelling, and redness at the injection sites. Sometimes discomfort and painful sensations may occur, as if from cutting glass. Usually all the symptoms go away on their own. After injections, you should not wash your face for the first 24 hours after the session; then you need to treat with antiseptic drugs. To relieve swelling, sterile cold compresses are allowed.

Argireline is a safe and effective competitor to Botox, whose action is based on the principle of muscle relaxation. It does not have a deep effect on the skin structure. The drug gives a superficial cosmetic effect, which disappears when it is discontinued.