Algae extract in cosmetics

An absolutely safe component when used as directed. Individual intolerance is possible.

Chlorella extract from a unique single-celled green algae contains over twenty vitamins and microelements, including A, B12, beta-carotene, minerals, iodine, proteins, lipids, lysine, polysaccharides and amino acids, lipids.

Cosmetic effect:

It has a pronounced antioxidant, moisturizing, vitaminizing, wound-healing, antibacterial and healing effect.

Seaweed extract (Fucus vesiculosus) (algae extract; black tang; bladderwrack; fucus; kelp; laminaria digitata, sea wave; sea wrack)) - seaweed was used in China to treat burns and rashes. Polynesians used them to treat wounds, scrapes, and tumors. They were used by all sailors who realized their medicinal properties. Thanks to the presence of iodine and sulfur-containing amino acids, which give them anti-inflammatory and disinfectant properties, seaweed provides a stimulating, regenerating and nourishing effect on the skin. The ability of seaweed to moisturize the skin is associated with its response to protein, and the formation of a protective gel on the surface of the skin. This results in reduced moisture loss due to evaporation. Algae have restorative potential and a positive effect on facial wrinkles. This is apparently due to the silicone content in them. Algae protect the skin from irritation, which makes it especially effective in after-shave creams. They also have a beneficial effect on mature and dry skin due to their smoothing and softening effect. Seaweed extract is effective in treating acne due to its antibiotic properties, which provide protection to the skin from infections. Evidence indicates that seaweed may speed up wound healing and improve the healing of burns (including sunburns) and other wounds when used in conjunction with calcium alginate. They can be used as a regeneration agent for sunburned or peeling skin. They are reported to help improve blood circulation in the skin. Due to the presence of alginates, seaweed is also used in cosmetic formulations, as a thickener, forming gels and emulsions. In cosmetic products their concentration varies from 2 to 7 percent. The beneficial effects of seaweed and seaweed extract may be due to the richness of these plants' components. These include water, mineral materials, lipids, protides, glucides and sulfur esters. Seaweeds are rich in vitamins, including vitamins A, B₁, B₂, B₃, B₅, B₁₂, C, D, T and K. Minerals found in algae include: iodine, calcium, iron, phosphorus, sodium, potassium, zinc, nitrogen, copper, chlorine, magnesium and manganese. They also have minor concentrations of other minerals such as silver, lithium, silicon, bromine, titanium, cobalt and arsenic. The amino acid content of seaweed is very high compared to other plants, and the polysaccharides it contains include fructose, galactose, glucose, mannose and xylose. In addition, they contain folic acid, choline, alginic acid, uronic acid, alginates, carrageenan, cellulose, proteins, agar-agar, algin and iodine-protein complexes. There are more than 17,000 species of algae, which are classified according to their color: green, blue, red and brown. The red and brown varieties of algae are the most commonly used in cosmetic preparations and are commonly referred to as seaweed or algae extract. These algae are green when fresh and dry to an olive-brown color. The thallus of the plant is used for cosmetic purposes.

Marine ingredients in cosmetics: algae, jellyfish, etc. 🐟

The flora and fauna of the ocean are incredibly diverse. 250 thousand species of marine organisms have already been described, and approximately 8.5 million have yet to be studied. Naturally, such an abundance could not help but attract the attention of cosmetics manufacturers, which is why there are entire lines with marine ingredients. For example, products from the brands Phytomer, Algenist, La Mer, Lirikos. As well as the lines Dr Dennis Gross Hyaluronic Marine™, Estée Lauder Nutritious Micro-Algae and others.

In many ways, the growing popularity of ingredients of marine origin is due to the desire of consumers to use “natural” cosmetics. Some substances could potentially be used in the future not only as active ingredients, but also as preservatives, that is, analogues of parabens. Of particular interest is the ability of marine organisms to protect themselves from the harmful effects of UV radiation, which they have developed as a result of evolution: they have learned to produce UV-absorbing substances that can probably be useful to us too (antioxidants).

Cosmetics manufacturers often simply indicate that they contain Algae Extract, which in principle complies with the INCI standard, but tells us little about buyers. There are about 100 thousand species of algae. So the full names don’t really help you figure it out either. Therefore, I advise you to buy algae cosmetics only from those manufacturers whose recipes you trust, and from those who rely on research and conduct it themselves.

Conventionally, algae can be divided into two types: microscopic and macroscopic. Macroscopic multicellular algae are those algae that we see with the naked eye. For example, a genus of brown seaweed Laminaria. Microalgae are microorganisms consisting of a single cell, meaning they can only be seen under a microscope. This is, for example, a genus of green algae Chlorella. The diversity of microalgae can be compared to the diversity of insects, so they are widely studied for use in food, pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. And previously they were even used in space life support systems.

Algae are mainly used as moisturizers due to the fact that they contain polysaccharides and fatty acids. They are able to both attract water and prevent its evaporation from the surface of the skin. But not only. Algae can be antioxidants and thickeners. They are rich in iodine, sodium, potassium, silicon and calcium, contain vitamins A, B, C, D, E, etc. Some brown algae have antihistamine (anti-allergenic) properties, although only on cells in vitro. They are also able to inhibit the action of the enzyme hyaluronidase, which breaks down hyaluronic acid, but also only in vitro.

The most common algae in cosmetics is the genus already mentioned Laminaria. For example, according to manufacturers, the extract Laminaria Saccharina moisturizes due to alginates and reduces sebum production due to the polysaccharide laminarin, and it also has anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antioxidant effects.

Alginates are salts of alginic acid. Alginic acid are polysaccharides of multicellular algae. Do not confuse with the term alguronic acid, invented by Algenist. The first is very similar in action to hyaluronic acid; it binds water. The second is supposedly capable of stimulating cell renewal and elastin synthesis. However, the in vitro studies on which these conclusions were drawn were sponsored by the company concerned and were not published in scientific journals. So you shouldn’t attach much importance to them.

And since we’re talking about alginates, I can’t help but mention alginate masks, which are sold in powder form. It must be mixed with water, applied to the face, and then removed in one piece. Alginic acid (more precisely, its salt) is here for form, and not for moisturizing: calcium sulfate and sodium alginate in the composition bind and, after drying, form an insoluble film. The active ingredients, unfortunately, in most cases do not work in such masks, and if they do provide an effect, it is temporary.

In addition to algae extracts of the genus Laminaria, that is Laminaria Cloustoni, Laminaria Japonica, Laminaria Digitata, Laminaria Ochroleuca and etc., Several other moisturizing ingredients can be distinguished: microalgae extract Nannochloropsis oculata high in eicosapentaenoic polyunsaturated fatty acids of the omega-3 class and seaweed extract Undaria pinnatifida, which are rich in serine.

Seaweed Macrocystis pyrifera, which belong to the family Laminariaceae, are able to enhance the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, and also probably the synthesis of membrane proteins of elements of the extracellular matrix.

Microalgae extract Chlorella vulgaris prevents the breakdown of collagen and elastin, as it is able to inhibit the action of destructive enzymes of matrix metalloproteinases. It also increases the expression of small proteins called thioredoxins in skin cells, which may help protect skin from aging caused by oxidative stress. In other words, the extract Chlorella vulgaris is an antioxidant.

The combination of red algae extracts Meristotheca dakarensis and Jania rubens, according to the manufacturers, stimulates the synthesis of connective tissue glycosaminoglycans (hyaluronic acid, for example) and type I and III collagen.

Another interesting ingredient is red algae extract. Ahnfeltia concinna, which can be used as a thickener. But it is also able to stimulate blood circulation, which helps hyaluronic acid penetrate deeper into the skin (as written on the packaging of Indeed Labs Hydraluron) and accordingly is included in some moisturizers: The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5, The Ordinary Marine Hyaluronics and Clinique Moisture Surge Intense Skin Fortifying Hydrator.

Algae in cosmetics:

1. REN Flash Defense Anti-Pollution Mist - contains extract

Algae make great antioxidants. For example, the carotenoid astaxanthin from microalgae Haematococcus pluvialis, Chlorella zofingiensis, Chlorococcum, Phaffia rhodozyma. I really love Astaxanthin. By the way, it has lightening properties and can reduce melanin production.

Another, much less common carotenoid is fucoxanthin, which is obtained from brown and golden algae and also has a lightening effect in vivo. Another carotenoid is zeaxanthin, found in algae extract. Nannochloropsis oculata can also inhibit the action of tyrosinase. All of them are being studied as potential analogues of hydroquinone.

Ectoine is produced by halophilic bacteria in response to osmotic stress at high salt concentrations to prevent water loss. It has the ability to bind water molecules and is similar to glycerol. Ectoine relieves inflammation, restores skin barrier function, and is being investigated for use in the treatment of atopic dermatitis.

Exopolysaccharides are high molecular weight polymers consisting of sugar residues. They are produced by various microorganisms in the deep seabed (bacteria, fungi and microalgae) and perform a protective function, preventing drying out in extreme conditions. These are marine analogues of hyaluronic acid, found in the following formulations: The Ordinary Marine Hyaluronics, NIOD Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist, NIOD Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex, Hylamide Hydra-Density Mist, Zelens Marine Complex Deep Restorative Cream. The exopolysaccharides in these products were obtained by fermentation of bacteria of the genus Pseudoalteromonas.

Ingredients of animal origin

Marine collagen is obtained from fish (and sometimes jellyfish). And despite its origin, such collagen has a less pronounced odor and is also more durable. I have already written in detail about collagen; it moisturizes the skin.

Marine animals are also considered as alternative sources of cosmetic ingredients that inhibit the action of destructive enzymes of matrix metalloproteinases. For example, these are peptides isolated from seahorses or Atlantic cod muscles.

Salmon caviar extract, included in some eye patches, has a high concentration of omega-3 fatty acids, carotenoids and vitamin E. According to the manufacturer, it has a calming effect.

Sea water and silt

They contain various nutrients and minerals beneficial for the skin. However, seawater and sea mud may contain toxic elements due to environmental pollution, so their use in cosmetics must be strictly controlled.