Ana acids in cosmetology

If you disguise your freckles with a tan, then you have something to worry about, because your skin may become uneven, darker in some places, lighter in others. And even worse are pigment spots.

The best time to get rid of these problems, if you still did not listen to Militta’s advice and sunbathed without sparing your skin, is October. You can conduct a course of home or salon peelings. We have already said that before getting rid of pigmentation, we need to find out its cause of origin - whether it appeared from microtrauma, hormonal changes or from excess ultraviolet radiation. How to restore the former freshness?

For example, sun spots can be cured with the help of special cosmetics, some of which act only on the surface of the skin, others penetrate deep enough and can suppress the synthesis of melanin, and age spots can only be cured with the help of hardware procedures or acid peeling. Fruit acids take an active part in acid peeling. These include malic, citric, tartaric, glycolic, and lactic acids; salicylic acid has a similar effect.

Lactic acid is formed under the influence of bacteria during lactic acid fermentation of sugary substances. Glycolic acid is found in sugar cane. Acids processed into cosmetic preparations are similar to peeling.

In cosmetology, products containing fruit and salicylic acids, resorcinol, and niacinamide are more often used.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA acids) – fruit acids have already proven their effectiveness. ANAs began to be used in the 70s by American cosmetologists as exfoliants for acne and whitening agents for the treatment of pigmentation. Then ANAs began to be obtained from apples, grapes and citrus fruits, combining them with other biologically active substances and obtaining various cosmetics.

They help fight premature skin aging. AHA acids accelerate the exfoliation of the stratum corneum and renewal of the epidermis, and promote better penetration of whitening components through the skin. ANAs dissolve substances in the skin that bind dead cells, and thus the stratum corneum quickly exfoliates. Skin looks smoother, fresher and softer.

With long-term treatment with AHA preparations, the renewal processes of deep-lying cells are stimulated, therefore fine wrinkles are smoothed out and age spots are lightened. Acids remove the stratum corneum, opening the way for lightening components. The skin becomes firm and elastic, retains moisture better.

However, they can cause skin irritation and even hyperpigmentation. This can only happen if they are used incorrectly. If you buy products with AHA acids and use them at home, you should know that their concentration in a cosmetic product should not be more than 4%. High concentrations may cause irritation.

When using ANA at home, testing must be done first. If the skin responds with redness by 4%, you should immediately wash off the product and try using a lower concentration (2.5 - 3%). If the skin continues to protest, treatment with ANA drugs will have to be discontinued. But if your skin takes products with a 4% concentration, then use this product for 4 - 6 weeks, and then start using products with 10%, but with great caution (for a short time - 2-3 minutes).

The preparatory stage is required. AHA peeling does not act instantly, everything happens gradually over several days.

As a rule, non-professional preparations contain 2-3% AHA content. But in order to significantly improve the skin, the content of these acids must be at least 70%. This is unacceptable for a non-professional cosmetic product, as it will certainly lead to severe side effects. Therefore, salon procedures are more effective, since your skin is under constant supervision of a cosmetologist.

The higher the concentration of AHA in cosmetics, the less time these products remain on the skin. If the cosmetologist does everything correctly, side effects are rare. In any case, when treating with fruit acids, be careful not to go into the sun without protective cream. In addition, treatment with fruit acids is not suitable for those with skin rosacea. However, when using preparations with ANAs that also contain strontium nitrate, the risk of complications with rosacea is reduced, which makes it possible to treat any type of skin, even with the presence of rosacea.

Cosmetics with ANAs are preparations that contain various substances depending on their purpose. One of the most effective acids in the fight against pigmentation is the active form of nicotinic acid or niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3.

The enzyme tyrosinase is responsible for the formation of pigment, promoting the synthesis of melanin, which becomes too much due to solar radiation or other reasons. Melanin accumulates and forms so-called foci of pigmentation. Niacinamide suppresses the activity of already produced tyrosinase, that is, the production of the enzyme does not change, but the signal for melanin synthesis is suppressed.

In other words, niacinamide performs two functions at once - it reduces the synthesis of melanin and the intensity of its delivery to the cells of the epidermis. Unlike other acids, nicotinic acid does not irritate the skin and strengthens blood vessels. Typically, 2-4% niacinamide is considered the best concentration in the product. If, when applying the product to the skin, you see slight redness, which will go away after 15 minutes, everything is in order - the product contains a sufficient amount of niacinamide.

In addition to niacinamide, bearberry extract also works.

If you decide to use products with AHA acids...

– refuse to use professional cosmetics for any purpose, especially those containing AHA acids. This can only be done under the supervision of a cosmetologist in beauty salons. It is better to spend money on a salon than to pay for an expensive professional cosmetic product and end up with problems.

– girls under 25 years old should not use products with AHA acids. At this age, the skin is capable of renewing itself; there is no need to further stimulate it, otherwise it will “get out of the habit of working.”

– don’t expect an immediate effect. Non-professional cosmetics with fruit acids act gradually.

– in non-professional cosmetics, grape and citric acids are more often used, and they should be indicated on the packaging. Otherwise, it may be fake. If you buy a cream with fruit acids from a store you can trust, you are unlikely to harm yourself, since the concentration of active substances in it is small.

– use protective equipment during whitening procedures. At this time, any contact with ultraviolet radiation has negative consequences.

– the best time for whitening procedures is from October. Chemical peeling cannot be performed from May to September inclusive, as the sun is most active during this period.

– in order for the fight against pigmentation to be most effective, it is necessary to constantly fight with mild lightening agents, and carry out intensive whitening as a course of treatment.

When you decide to fight pigmentation, be patient and choose the most gentle of all means. Don't expect instant results, follow your doctor's recommendations.

What products do cosmetologists recommend? We'll talk about this next time.

Types of AHA acids:

1. Glycolic acid - found in sugar cane and green grapes. In the series, AHA has the smallest molecular weight, so it easily penetrates the epidermal barrier. Glycolic acid also has the ability to reduce hyperpigmentation.

1. Lactic acid - found in sour milk, yogurt, blueberries, passionflower, maple syrup, apples, tomato juice, grapes. It has a pronounced moisturizing and exfoliating effect, and also improves skin hydration. Lactic acid is part of the natural moisturizing factor (NUF), a complex of substances with moisture-retaining properties. Improves the condition and thickness of the epidermis. Regulates skin pH levels. (Day anti-aging face cream 50g, Night anti-wrinkle cream 50g, Anti-aging eye contour cream 15g, Anti-aging face wash 100g, Moisturizing face cream 24 hours 50g, Moisturizing wash gel 100g, Toning shower gel 200g)

1. Apple acid - found in many fruits, especially in apples and tomatoes. In addition to the exfoliating effect, it stimulates cells, enhancing cellular metabolism.

1. Wine acid (tartar) - found in free or esterified form in ripe grapes, old wine, oranges. Has exfoliating, whitening and moisturizing effects.

1. Lemon acid - found in citrus fruits (lemon, lime, grapefruit, orange, pineapple, papaya, kiwi). It has the highest molecular weight of all the listed AHAs. It has a whitening effect on the skin, which is enhanced in the presence of tartaric acid. It has antioxidant and bactericidal properties, improves cell metabolism and renewal, stimulates the production of collagen - a substance that gives the skin elasticity and a fresh, healthy appearance. (Moisturizing face cream 24 hours 50g, Moisturizing eye cream 15g, Moisturizing gel for washing 100g, Energetic face cream with UV filter 50g, Toning shower gel 200g, Firming Body Cream with UV filter 200g, Moisturizing shampoo – conditioner 200g, lip balm with UV filter 5g).
2. AHA acids are found in the fruits of pineapple, kiwi, papaya - removes dead cells and accelerates the process of cell renewal.

Action of ANA acids:

The exfoliating effect of AHAs is explained by their ability to weaken the adhesion (cohesion) of corneocytes in the stratum corneum. In response to increased desquamation, cell division in the basal layer is activated.
ANAs have a moisturizing effect on the skin by accelerating the renewal of the epidermis. It is known that on the surface of keratinocytes there is a complex of hygroscopic molecules, or natural moisturizing factor - NMF. NMF is most pronounced in young cells. In old horny scales, NMF degrades. Accelerated cell division of the basal layer and rapid desquamation of horny scales leads to an increase in the content of functionally active NMF in the skin.
Strengthening the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagen occurs due to the stimulating effect of AHA on skin fibroblasts. Another explanation for the effect of ANA on the synthesis of the intercellular substance of the dermis is provided by the theory of stress. The chemical effect of AHA on the skin is a stressful effect, in response to which the skin's protective systems are activated. This leads to the mobilization of internal resources, increased reparative activity of skin cells, and increased synthesis of vital molecules.
Thus, under the influence of AHA, the epidermis becomes thinner and the dermis thickens. The stratum corneum becomes firmer and more elastic, and fine wrinkles on the skin are smoothed out (see fig.)
When using AHA acids, cell regeneration is activated, the skin becomes fresher and more elastic. The flow of moisture from the lower layers of the skin to its surface increases, the skin is moisturized and softened. This is very important for dry skin. The lipid balance is normalized, the ducts of the sebaceous glands are cleaned, therefore, the oiliness of the skin is reduced, and the appearance of comedones and acne is prevented. Skin areas with hyperpigmentation are lightened. In addition, regular removal of dead cells facilitates the penetration of the active components of creams and serums into the skin.
Professional cosmetology is focused on a more pronounced and lasting therapeutic result, therefore a wide range of enzymes are used in programs. And in order to achieve the best effect, combinations of enzymes of several types are usually made, obtained, for example, from papaya, pineapple and cane, etc. If alpha-hydroxy acids are combined with certain other substances in cosmetic preparations, their effectiveness increases markedly, since the components complement and enhance each other. For example, vitamins A and E enhance the antioxidant, whitening and tonic effects of acids. The moisturizing effect and lipid protection are guaranteed by the combination of alpha hydroxyl acids with hyaluronic acids. The presence of salicylic acid in AHA products provides deep cleansing.

FEATURES OF USING COSMETIC PRODUCTS WITH ANA-ACIDS FOR DIFFERENT SKIN TYPES:

1. Oily skin with a tendency to develop ACNE
Thanks to the exfoliation effect, AHAs cleanse the excretory ducts of the sebaceous glands, preventing them from clogging and the formation of acne. When using ANA, the likelihood of cicatricial complications of acne is reduced. The use of AHA facilitates the penetration of the active components of acne treatment products into the skin. Fruit acids are famous not only for their exfoliating properties. They are also good at sebum regulation - they reduce the production of sebum by the sebaceous glands. Therefore, cosmetics with AHA are recommended for young girls who suffer from the fact that their faces are constantly shiny.
However, the positive effect of fruit acids does not end there. They will certainly appeal to women of any age, whose skin is “decorated” by enlarged pores: AHA narrows them. Fruit acids also have a corrosive effect: in cosmetics they dissolve sebaceous plugs, that is, blackheads.
And, most importantly, when using products with AHA, not only comedones are eliminated, but also deep cleansing of the skin occurs. Because sweat comes out through its pores, and along with it all the waste and toxins that enter the body with food, medications, and from the air. Thus, the detoxification process is greatly accelerated.

2. Dry skin
Everyone knows that the beauty and youth of the skin directly depend on its hydration. On the surface of our skin there is a group of hygroscopic substances (amino acids, urea, etc.), which form the so-called NMF (natural mustoraising factor), that is, “natural moisturizing factor”. These substances draw water from the surrounding air, absorb it like a sponge, and then moisturize the epidermis from these reserves.
As for fruit acids, they dissolve the skin protein keratogelin into amino acids and thereby enhance the hydroscopic properties of our natural moisturizing factor. After all, the denser the rows of its components, the better it absorbs water.
Thanks to the action of AHA, old scales are effectively removed from the surface of the stratum corneum, which facilitates the penetration of moisturizers into the skin.
The uniform exfoliation provided by AHA significantly softens rough, dry skin and restores normal skin pattern.

3. Aged (mature) skin
Thanks to the exfoliating effect of AHA, horny layers are eliminated, which prevent the penetration of nutrients necessary for the regeneration and protection of mature skin.
ANAs remove layers of horny scales that roughen the skin pattern and emphasize wrinkles, and also prevent their appearance.
Exfoliation of dead horny scales stimulates the processes of normal regeneration of skin cells.
The importance of hyaluronic acid is difficult to overestimate, because the elasticity of our skin depends on it. This substance attracts water and is responsible for the condition of the epidermis; it is also, in fact, a frame that holds intertwined collagen and elastin fibers. Accordingly, the less hyaluronic acid in the epidermis, the worse we look.
And with age, its reserves inevitably begin to dry up. At the same time, fruit acids stimulate fibroblasts - connective tissue cells of the body, which are responsible for the production of hyaluronic acid, as well as collagen and elastin. Of course, you shouldn’t hope that after using cosmetics with AHA acids, wrinkles will disappear completely. However, you can firmly count on the fact that small wrinkles will be significantly smoothed out, and deep ones will become much less pronounced.

4. Hyperpigmented skin
Thanks to the exfoliating effect of AHA, excess layers of horny scales are more actively removed from the skin surface, which facilitates the penetration of bleaching agents into it and increases their effectiveness.
In addition to the exfoliating effect, citric and tartaric (tartaric) acids have a whitening effect.
By removing dead, hyperpigmented horny scales, ANAs provide a progressive reduction in hyperpigmentation.

WHAT PROBLEMS DO COSMETICS WITH ANA-ACIDS SOLV?

1. Cell stimulation and renewal
2. Increased skin elasticity
3. Reducing the depth of wrinkles
4. Concealing skin imperfections
5. Even out skin color
6. Skin hydration
7. Skin cleansing (destroying excess oil and dead cells) in combination with salicylic acid
8. AHA can be used on all skin types

The effect of AHA acids depends on many factors, and mainly on skin type. The effect of cosmetics with AHA acids occurs gradually, over the course of several days: the color and texture of the skin improves, and a feeling of freshness and softness appears.

COME IN AND BUY!

When purchasing cosmetics with the treasured abbreviation for personal use, first of all, pay attention to the percentage of acids. Even a small percentage can renew and refresh your skin without any risk. The only exceptions may be cases with a severe allergy to citrus fruits.
Pay attention not only to “fruit” creams and masks, but also to shower gels, as well as shampoos that contain AHA acids. The latter, by the way, do an excellent job with the “snow problem” - dandruff.
If we talk about shower gels, then, in addition to a pleasant fruity aroma, they will bring you smooth and elastic skin and a good mood!
But if you want to enjoy a “fruit” mask or cream, you will have to adhere to certain rules:

1. You should not use creams and masks with AHA acids after prolonged exposure to the sun.
2. Do not expect an immediate effect, as cosmetics with AHA acids act gradually. After several sessions you will definitely feel the difference!
3. Do not exceed the exposure time indicated on the packaging. Pinching and tingling means that “the process has begun,” but if your face begins to “burn” strongly, wash off the mask with cool water.
4. After using cosmetics with fruit acids, mild irritation and burning may occur. The effect of AHA acids depends on many factors, and mainly on skin type. The effect of cosmetics with AHA acids occurs gradually, over the course of several days: the color and texture of the skin improves, and a feeling of freshness and softness appears.
5. If you have sensitive skin, this does not mean that fruit acids are contraindicated for you. Immediately before use, apply a small amount of product to the crook of the elbow joint and wait a few minutes. If irritation occurs, it is better to refuse its further use.

SO WHAT DO COSMETICS WITH ANA-ACIDS GIVE US?

The use of cosmetics with these miracle acids eliminates blackheads, closed comedones, enlarged pores, and post-acne. Reduces the depth of wrinkles and fine lines. Moreover, the results are already noticeable after a few weeks of daily use. (Clean, smooth, even and well-groomed skin for a long time! By ensuring the separation of the scales of the stratum corneum, AHAs facilitate the penetration of any cosmetic products into the skin, increasing their effectiveness.

While looking for another jar in a cosmetic store, you probably noticed these abbreviations: AHA and BHA. And they wondered - who is this and what do they eat with?

If you've never used acids on your face, but want to get started and finally understand AHAs and BHAs, this post is for you. In it we will talk about the most popular acids in cosmetics, their types, properties and features. We will also explain which type of acids - AHA or BHA - to choose depending on your skin type and pressing problems.

Hydroxy acids

AHA and BHA acids belong to a large and friendly family hydroxy acids (hydroxy acids).

AHA fruit acids

Fruit acids are called alpha hydroxy acids (alpha hydroxy acids). Abbreviated as AHA (AHA) acid.

The fruit nickname AHA acids was given because many of them live in fruits. Read more about the habitats of alpha hydroxy acids here.

Types of fruit acids

IN cosmetic worldwide, AHA acids include:

BHA acids

Brothers of AHA acids are BHA acids - beta hydroxy acids (beta hydroxy acids).

IN cosmetic worldWhen talking about BHA acids, we mean one acid - salicylic acid.

Word to the chemists

IN chemical world - from the point of view of the structure of the molecule - hydroxy acids have a different classification.

Chemically, AHA acids include:

Chemically, BHA acids include:

However, malic and citric acids are also also have the properties of AHA acids. Therefore, in cosmetics they are classified as fruit acids (AHA).

Where is salicylic acid, you ask? Salicylic acid is classified as a BHA, but this is chemically incorrect. Salicylic acid and its derivatives (salicylates) do not belong to BHA in their chemical structure and sit on a separate shelf.

There are many more hydroxy acids than we have listed. In this post we will analyze only the most popular ones. We are not chemists, and we will not delve into the structure of molecules. We'll talk about acids from a cosmetics perspective.

1. About AHA acids - glycolic, lactic, mandelic, tartaric, citric, malic.
2. About BHA acid - salicylic acid.

Fruit acids - glycolic, lactic and salicylic acids - are the most popular and often used in cosmetology. Their effectiveness has been confirmed by multiple clinical studies.

AHA: the effect of fruit acids on the skin

Why use fruit acids for your face? See for yourself. AHA acids:

1. exfoliate;
2. stimulate regeneration;
3. stimulate the synthesis of collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid and ceramides;
4. moisturize;
5. increase firmness and elasticity;
6. have an anti-age effect;
7. lighten;
8. provide antioxidant protection.

Acids, such as citric acid, are also used in cosmetics as a pH regulator.

BHA: the effect of salicylic acid on the skin

VNA has no less cool properties. Salicyl:

1. deeply cleanses pores, dissolving fat from the inside;
2. normalize the activity of the sebaceous glands;
3. reduces skin oiliness;
4. relieves inflammation;
5. fights germs;
6. prevents acne.

Read more about the mechanism of action of acids on the skin here.

From a cosmetological point of view, the main difference between AHA and BHA acids is solubility.

1. AHA - water soluble. They act on the surface of the skin, in the epidermis and in high concentrations in the dermis. Does not penetrate pores.
2. BHA (salicylic acid) is fat soluble. It acts inside the pores, on the surface of the skin, in the epidermis and, in high concentrations, in the dermis.

The agony of choice

So, what to choose among the variety of acids? Let's figure it out.

When to choose AHA acids

1. for aging skin;
2. to combat photoaging;
3. to smooth out wrinkles;
4. for pigment spots and post-acne;
5. to moisturize the skin;
6. for dry skin;
7. for normal skin;
8. with young skin no problem.

Keep in mind: fruit AHA acids are not the best help for problem skin. Better take a closer look at salicylic acid.

When to choose BHA acids

1. for oily skin;
2. for problem skin and acne-prone skin;
3. to fight acne;
4. to combat blackheads;
5. to cleanse forgotten pores (closed comedones);
6. with enlarged pores;
7. with milia;
8. for rosacea (there are suggestions that salicylic acid fights microbes on the surface of the skin that provoke rosacea, and it also relieves inflammation and redness).

Important! Salicylic acid should not be used if you are allergic to aspirin.

If your skin is aging with wrinkles, but also oily, choose salicylic acid. Better yet, combine AHA and BHA acids in your care.

Read this post about the properties of each specific acid.

Summarize

AHA and BHA belong to the hydroxy acid family.

In the cosmetic world, AHA acids include glycolic, lactic, mandelic, tartaric, malic and citric acids. The only BHA is salicylic acid.

The main difference between AHAs and BHAs: AHAs are water soluble and do not penetrate pores; BHA (salicylic acid) is fat-soluble and penetrates pores well.

For hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, photoaging, aged, dry and normal skin, choose AHA acids.

For oily, problem skin and acne, choose BHA (salicylic acid).

Do you use products with acids? Share in the comments.

In the next post we’ll talk more about cosmetics with acids - creams, lotions, masks. About the working concentration of acids, and how to use them correctly.

Improve your cosmetic literacy, stay with us and be beautiful.