Nichols cream with aha acids

Lotions, masks and creams for every taste and budget

Text: Adel Miftakhova

Last week we talked about how products with acids help solve various skin problems - from acne to pigmentation. Today we are looking at a wide selection of cosmetics with acids: we divided the products into categories depending on their texture and found several options for different skin types and problems.

Let us clarify separately: there are many products with acids for washing on the market. However, as experts from Paula Begun’s team explain, any acid needs time to penetrate the skin and act, and cleansers are on the face for just a couple of minutes. Therefore, we will not recommend foams and gels with acids for washing, but will immediately start with tonics.

Tonics

Toners with acids are used immediately after washing - on clean skin. There is an opinion that before using the cream again, you need to wait 20 minutes so that the tonic with acids has time to take effect. In fact, this is not so: the effect of acids begins from the moment they are applied and continues as long as the acids are on the skin. You can neutralize the acid by adding alkali, and most creams have a pH level that is acidic or close to neutral, so their application simply cannot significantly affect the effectiveness of products with acids.

Clarins Gentle Exfoliator

Clarins tonic contains glycolic, salicylic and tartaric acids in low but noticeable concentrations - the manufacturer chose not to disclose specific figures. The product leaves a very slight stickiness, which goes away if you let the tonic absorb properly. The effect is noticeable after two or three applications, and if you apply the tonic at night in combination with intensive care, it will be even faster. In addition to excellent exfoliation, Clarins Gentle Exfoliator provides deep hydration and is suitable for those with dry skin.

REN Clarifying Toning Lotion

A soft and gentle toner from the REN line for problem skin. Contains glycolic, lactic acids and fruit extracts. Thanks to its gentle action, the product can be used by people with any skin type. With constant use of the tonic, the effect makes itself felt within a couple of weeks. After applying the product, a slight feeling of skin tightness may appear, but it is easily eliminated with subsequent moisturizing care - the main thing is not to neglect this point.

Stridex Soft Touch Pads

An alcohol-free exfoliator in the form of discs soaked in salicylic acid. Available in concentrations of 0.5, 1 and 2%. The discs are convenient to use on the body, including to combat ingrown hairs after hair removal. Please note that Stridex is an aggressive product: use it with caution, only on problem areas of the skin and be sure to moisturize them afterwards. By the way, the discs can deal with blackheads and small pimples in just two applications.

Biologique Recherche Lotion P50

One of the most popular acid tonics in the West, which in Russia is sold only in specialized salons. Contains a mixture of AHA acids and salicylic acid. Smoothes out fine wrinkles, cleanses pores, evens out the skin and makes it radiant - in general, everything that is usually expected from products with acids. May cause slight redness, but it goes away quickly. For sensitive skin it may be too aggressive, as it contains alcohol as a preservative.

SkinCeuticals
Blemish + Age Solution

Pimples and breakouts are commonly associated with teenage skin, but professional brand SkinCeuticals understands that even mature skin can be acne-prone. This impressive 250ml toner contains glycolic acid to hydrate and salicylic acid to combat breakouts. It acts very gently and does not dry out the skin, so you can safely use the product several times a day.

Emulsions and lotions

Emulsions and lotions are characterized by a liquid and slightly viscous texture; they often leave a not very pleasant sticky feeling on the face for a long time. This is exactly why it is most comfortable to use such products at night, or in the morning, if you have enough time for the lotion to be completely absorbed. Like tonics, lotions and emulsions are applied to clean skin, and your usual care is applied on top. Acids can be used with almost any creams, oils and serums, except those that contain vitamin C. “Acids neutralize vitamin C, and it loses its antioxidant properties,” explains cosmetologist Sali Kardava.

Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liqu >A key product from Paula Begun's own brand, recommended for all skin types and conditions as a daily exfoliant. Products for problem skin often tend to dry it out, but this lotion, on the contrary, retains water in the epidermis. It also cleanses pores, reduces acne marks, evens out skin tone and texture. The product does not contain alcohol, which is not so often found in salicylic lotions. Paula herself recommends using it every day or even twice a day.

Clinique Mild Clarifying Lotion

The lotion contains only salicylic acid in an almost imperceptible concentration and acts very gently but effectively. Unlike all other Clinique toners, it does not contain alcohol and is perfect for those with problematic but sensitive skin. With constant use, it reduces the number of blackheads, minor inflammations and makes the skin smoother. It is not as sticky as other lotions and is therefore good for use in the morning.

Noreva Exfoliac AHA BHA Lotion

The Exfoliac acid line from the French pharmacy brand Noreva is designed specifically for acne-prone skin. This lotion contains salicylic and glycolic acids at a concentration of 12%. It can also be used by people with problem-free skin who periodically need powerful exfoliation - the main thing is to act carefully, listen to the body's reaction and, if there is the slightest concern, put the product aside. It is recommended to use this lotion no more than once or twice a week, as it is really powerful and easy to overdo.

Holy Land Alpha Complex
Face Lotion

The Israeli brand Holy Land specializes in cosmetics for problem skin, and this is far from the only acidic product that it has in its range. The lotion is recommended for dry skin with uneven tone and texture. The product perfectly exfoliates, refreshes and moisturizes, and also allows other care to work more effectively.

Alpha-H Liquid Gold

This powerful exfoliant with glycolic acid caused a sensation in the West at one time, and for good reason: the lotion is effective in the fight against wrinkles and pigmentation. It is especially recommended for owners of mature skin - to increase firmness and elasticity. The manufacturer strictly warns: you can use the lotion only at night and no more than three times a week, otherwise there is a high risk of increased skin sensitivity, peeling and inflammation.

Creams

Most day creams contain low concentrations of acids, which do not exfoliate, but help retain water in the skin. For exfoliating acid creams, you should first turn to pharmacy brands, each of which has an acid line for problem skin. We will repeat again - you can use them even if you have absolutely clean skin that just needs a good peeling. Most of these creams have a difficult-to-apply texture and a strong color or scent, which makes it best to apply them at night.

Reviva Labs
10% Glycolic Ac >One of the most popular and inexpensive glycolic acid creams is available in concentrations of 5 and 10%. It is recommended to use it at night; the manufacturer himself advises starting with a concentration of 5% so as not to overdo it with exfoliation. At first, the skin may sting quite strongly, but with constant use the cream removes post-acne.

Avène Cleanance K Cream-Gel

A light gel-cream that contains glycolic, lactic and salicylic acids and copes well with skin unevenness, blackheads, and also has a sebum-regulating effect. The product leaves a strong sticky feeling, so it is best to leave it for use before bed. The cream may dry out the skin a little, so we advise you to pay special attention to moisturizing care.

Derma E Overnight Peel

This peeling cream is recommended to be applied at night to clean skin. It contains only AHA acids, which means it is perfect for those with dry and mature skin. It may sting a little, but this is absolutely normal for acidic products. The concentration of acids is quite low - 5%, pH - 3.5, which is responsibly reported by the manufacturer directly on the packaging. Even beginners can use this cream, but it’s better to start with one or two times a week, gradually increasing the frequency as necessary.

Filorga Sleep and Peel

A night exfoliating cream for all skin types, which the manufacturer recommends applying to a clean face and not using any skin care products with it. The product evens out skin tone and texture, removes fine wrinkles and age spots - the result is noticeable literally after a couple of uses. In addition to exfoliation, the cream provides good hydration, which is sometimes sorely lacking in peelings.

Vichy Normaderm Total Mat

Mattifying cream that visually reduces pore size. This is one of the few acid creams that have a light texture and can serve as an excellent makeup base for oily and combination skin. Keeps the skin matte for a long time and at the same time heals the pores. Contains salicylic acid in a concentration of 0.5%, which is quite suitable for daily use.

Masks

Exfoliating masks are an easy way to get instant results, as well as get to know the acids and understand which one is right for you and how often you need to use it. Many masks with acids are gentle and can be used every day, but we still strongly recommend following the manufacturer’s recommendations at first, and also using restorative ones after acid masks in order to soothe the skin and provide it with deep hydration and nutrition.

Natura Siberica Face Peeling

It is still very difficult to find products with acids in the mass market, but the Natura Siberica brand went a little further than other manufacturers and released several products with glycolic and salicylic acids. This mask contains both AHA and BHA acids, and while gentle and soft, it is very effective - and gives an effect almost immediately. The skin becomes soft, smooth and moisturized. Due to its dense texture, the mask is difficult to wash off, but its low price and high effectiveness justify this minor inconvenience.

Avène Cleanance Mask

A soft clay mask with glycolic and salicylic acids is especially recommended for those with oily and problematic skin. Instantly evens out tone and brightens blackheads, and with continued use helps keep skin smooth and radiant. The composition also contains abrasive particles, which should provide additional exfoliation, but in reality they are practically useless, since the mask itself provides a very good peeling effect.

“Bark” cream mask
with fruit acids

One of the most popular acid masks on the Russian market from a domestic manufacturer of pharmaceutical cosmetics, which turned out to be so successful at its low price that it is still difficult (but possible) to find on sale. Due to the high concentration of acids in the product, the face may sting strongly, and you should not be surprised by redness. We recommend using the mask no more than once or twice a week, and those with sensitive skin should avoid it altogether.

Caudalie Glycolic Peel Mask

This very soft mask has a delicate whipped consistency, does not sting at all, does not tighten the skin and moisturizes well. The renewal effect will not be as obvious as from other masks, but for sensitive and thin skin this is even more of a plus.

REN Glycol Lactic
Radiance Renewal Mask

The organic brand REN is worth loving at least for their packaging: airtight and functional. The peeling itself is bright orange in color with an orange scent and has a pleasant texture. This renewing mask contains glycolic and lactic acids, with constant use it smooths out wrinkles and makes the face radiant.

Photos: Clarins, Mecca, eBay, Meadow Aesthetics, SkinCeuticals, Paula's Choice, Parapharmacie Prado Mermoz, Holy Land, Parfümerie Douglas, Beautyloops, Derma E, Urodama, Kutiz Cosméticos, Natura Siberica, KOPA, Sephora

How to use “acids” every day without skin irritation

AHA acids really work wonders - by including them in your care, you can very soon see how your reflection in the mirror has changed towards youth. Creams and lotions with acids exfoliate the top dead cells of the epidermis and also moisturize the skin due to their ability to bind water. Cleansers with acids lower the pH of the skin, restoring the functioning of enzymes and regulating pathogenic microflora. And serums tighten the skin and smooth out wrinkles - here the acids work at the level of the lower layers of the epidermis and stimulate cell activity.

However, many women who are hooked on an “acid” routine complain that their skin has become more sensitive, and erythema, itching, burning and other troubles often occur. Indeed, when using acids, the skin becomes thinner. After all, acids are exfoliators; they reduce the protective function of the skin, which means it becomes more sensitive. But all this happens gradually, unnoticed by you. This is why a drug that initially “worked great” brings nothing but disappointment after a month.

Does this mean that acids can only be used for a short time? Not at all. You just need to follow some rules.

The right acid

When people talk about fruit acids, for some reason glycolic acid is always the first one that comes to mind, however, there are a lot of acids, and you can always choose the one that’s right for you. For example, mandelic acid is much better suited for sensitive skin, since it does not irritate the skin; for dry, thin skin, lactic acid is much better, since its moisturizing properties are stronger than those of glycolic acid.

By the way, using serum with lactic acid and the amino acid arginine (L-arginine) on dry skin for a month will not be inferior in moisturizing effect to the biorevitalization procedure.

Correct concentration

As a rule, the concentration of acids in home care products is 5–15%, in professional ones – up to 70%. However, what is stated on the label does not always reflect the real state of affairs. Why is this happening? Let's look at the example of glycolic acid.

There is a pH value after which the concentration of free acid in the products is reduced by half. For example, for glycolic acid it is pH 3.83, for lactic acid it is 3.86, etc. (acid dissociation tables can be found on the Internet). That is, if your jar of cream indicates 10% glycolic acid, and its pH is stated as 3.5, then only 6.81% of the “working” acid will remain there. If the pH is 4.0, then the acid content will be 4.03%. Roughly speaking, the higher the pH, the less “acids”.

Please note that at a concentration of 4% (real and not declared), the acids mainly have only a moisturizing effect. However, you should not chase low pH and high concentration, especially if you are just starting to use acids. Otherwise, you are likely to get tightness and irritation instead of glowing skin. For care, choose products with a concentration on the label of up to 10–12% and a pH of 3.0–3.5. For sensitive skin it is better to start with 5%. After a month, you will be able to increase the concentration and lower the pH without side effects as the skin will adapt.

The right combination

In the previous article, we talked about the incompatibility of retinol and AHA acids. But retinol is not the only bad pairing with acids. Niacinamide, a water-soluble form of vitamin B, also goes very poorly with them.₃, which is sometimes called vitamin PP.

Niacinamide stimulates collagen synthesis, enhances cell metabolism, normalizes microcirculation, strengthens the barrier function of sensitive skin, fights acne inflammation, and effectively removes pigmentation in high percentages. It is almost universal, so it can be found in many products.

Niacinamide is very stable... unless exposed to acidic conditions. In this case, it breaks down into ammonia (this is accompanied by a terrible smell) and niacin - nicotinic acid, which, as a rule, causes redness of the face. Therefore, applying a product with vitamin B₃ and by combining it with “sour” products, you risk at least developing erythema.

So it is better to use a product with niacinamide half an hour before applying weak acids (concentration no more than 4% “real”). If you have more serious acids, then it is better to leave them overnight, and vitamin B₃ transfer to day care. And, of course, if you use AHA acids, be sure to use sunscreen: make-up with SPF or sunscreen - decide for yourself, but you should have SPF 30-40 protection even in winter.

Following these simple tips will help you avoid irritation and flaking of the skin and will allow you to “make friends” with acids for a long time.

Brand: ANNA LOTAN (Israel)

Line: Alodem - for sensitive skin with rosacea

I am 33 years old. The skin is normal, sometimes irritation appears. I really love Israeli cosmetics! I have been using this cream for several months, 2-3 times a week at night. The smell is pleasant, light consistency, there were no unpleasant sensations after application. Kako. Read more

The drug contains lactic acid and pineapple extract, rich in enzymes, and is designed to exfoliate dead epidermal cells and activate skin renewal processes. Action: Gradually strengthens thin skin and restores its elasticity. Hyaluronic acid, which is part of the drug, simultaneously actively moisturizes the skin and relieves the possible tingling sensation that is typical when...

The drug contains lactic acid and pineapple extract, rich in enzymes, and is designed to exfoliate dead epidermal cells and activate skin renewal processes.

Action:Gradually strengthens thin skin and restores its elasticity. Hyaluronic acid, which is part of the drug, simultaneously actively moisturizes the skin and relieves the possible tingling sensation that is typical when using AHA acids. Cream-gel is an ideal renewing night product for the skin.

Active Ingredients:Lactic acid, pineapple extract, hyaluronic acid.