Peeling cosmetics

Peeling is one of the most popular procedures both in salons and at home. Refreshes the skin, slows down the aging process, minimizes pimples and age spots. We'll tell you how to choose products with a peeling effect.

1. Features of facial peeling products
2. Types of peeling products
3. Rules for choosing peeling products
4. Precautionary measures
5. Cosmetics review

Features of facial peeling products

Translated from English, the word “peel” means “to remove the peel.” And the procedure itself is exfoliation:

dead epidermal cells (they are the main reason for the effect of dull “parchment” skin);

top layer of skin for visible rejuvenation.

Types of peeling products

by depth of penetration - superficial, middle, deep;

depending on the principle of operation - mechanical, chemical, hardware.

Only superficial mechanical and chemical peels are performed at home.

Mechanical

They contain abrasive particles of natural and synthetic origin of different sizes, shapes and hardness.

Natural: crushed fruit seed shells, ground coffee beans, crushed grape peels, microparticles of eggshells, pearls, loofahs, chitinous cover of crustaceans.

Synthetic: nylon powder, polyethylene particles, cellulose. Facial massage, carried out with the help of such abrasives, delicately cleanses only dead skin particles.

Mechanical peeling contains abrasive particles of natural and synthetic origin of different sizes, shapes and hardness. © iStock

Obviously, mechanical means include scrubs. The choice of scrub depends on the size of the particles: larger inclusions can injure dry, thin facial skin, in which case synthetic granules are preferable.

It is better to use the scrub in the evening, before bed, so that the skin more effectively absorbs the active ingredients of the night cream and can properly recover.

Chemical

These products contain:

hydroxy acids, for example, AHA (lactic, malic, glycolic, grape) and BHA (salicylic);

enzymes (papain, subtilisin) or retinol.

These substances weaken the connections between epidermal cells, promoting their exfoliation, and have a beneficial biological effect on the skin:

stimulate the work of epidermal cells;

improve skin color and texture;

increase its tone.

And now the actual types of peeling products.

Gommage. Ideal for any skin type, even sensitive. The product in the form of a cream is applied to the skin for 10–15 minutes and then washed off with water.

Film mask. It is applied to the face in a fairly thick layer, hardens and is removed along with the keratinized particles of the surface layer of the epidermis.

Exfoliating lotion. Use daily before bed after removing makeup.

Exfoliating serum. This relatively new product is intended for problematic (acne, rashes) or mature (wrinkles, loss of firmness, hyperpigmentation) skin. Contains a fairly high concentration of alpha hydroxy acids in combination with vitamins and antioxidants.

System for chemical peeling at home. Simulates peeling in a salon. As a rule, it consists of an exfoliating (acid-based) substance and a neutralizing cream.

Rules for choosing peeling products

In this matter, consider your age, skin type and the problems you want to solve.

Remember: when choosing a product with a high concentration of alpha hydroxy acids, consultation with a cosmetologist is required.

Age

After 20 years Scrubs, gommages, film masks, cleansing lotions are suitable. With regular use, they will keep your skin smooth, soft and fresh.

After 30 years slowing down the skin renewal process, signs of photoaging (in the form of hyperkeratosis and the first visible wrinkles) require formulas with a higher concentration of fruit acids. Exfoliating lotions and anti-aging serums will come in handy.

After 40 years and older, along with home remedies (anti-aging lotions, serums and masks), more intense peeling in a salon or clinic is recommended.

Today, exfoliant products increasingly combine mechanical and chemical exfoliation. © iStock

Skin type

For dry skin, lactic or citric acid is more often used, for oily skin - salicylic acid.

Problem

Acne. Regular use of exfoliating products allows you to cleanse the ducts of the sebaceous glands, reduce the number of comedones and rashes.

Hyperpigmentation. Products based on fruit acids lighten age spots and regulate the functioning of melanocytes.

Skin reactivity. For sensitive skin prone to irritation or redness, exfoliating products based on fruit acids are often not suitable.

Precautionary measures

Contraindications for chemical peeling:

inflammatory skin diseases in the acute stage;

individual intolerance to fruit acids;

hirsutism (increased hair growth);

Cosmetics review

Gel, scrub, mask “Clean skin 3-in-1”, Garnier

This product is intended for combination and oily skin. Contains eucalyptus extract, zinc and salicylic acid. It has triple effectiveness: it gently exfoliates the skin, reduces pimples and blackheads, and removes oily shine.

Blemish & Age Defense Serum, SkinCeuticals

Designed to correct imperfections and age-related changes. Contains dioic, glycolic, salicylic, citric acids. Evens out skin texture, reduces hypersecretion of sebaceous glands, and prevents post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. To be used daily: apply 4-5 drops in the evening to the face and décolleté.

Night peeling >

In this article we will look at the main varieties that are used at home, in beauty salons and medical clinics.

Classification of peelings in cosmetology by depth of impact

To understand how peelings work, let’s remember the structural features of human skin:

Human skin consists of three layers. The most superficial is the epidermis, then the dermis and the deepest is the subcutaneous fatty tissue or hypodermis. In turn, the epidermis is divided into 5 layers:

1. Horny. The outer layer includes dead anucleate cells and flat skin flakes. Contacts the skin and performs a protective function.
2. Shiny, transitional from dead to living cells.
3. Granular, consists of flat keratinocytes and branched epidermocytes.
4. Spiny, includes large keratinocytes.
5. Basal. It is adjacent to the dermis and consists of keratinocytes and melanocytes containing the pigment “melanin”.

The dermis is the main layer of the skin. The main cells of the dermis are fibroblasts. They synthesize collagen and elastin fibers, which give the skin elasticity.

The dermis consists of 2 layers:

1. Papillary. It is adjacent to the epidermis and contains a large number of blood vessels.
2. Reticulate. A deeper layer that borders the hypodermis.

Depending on the depth of exposure to physical factors or active substances, the following types of peelings are distinguished:

1. Superficial.

Works at the level of the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The procedure does not require special skills, as it is not dangerous to the patient and does not affect living cells. Superficial types of peeling do not cause pain.

First of all, the technique is used to cleanse the skin, giving the face smoothness and freshness. Superficial peelings are included in complex procedures, as they improve the penetration of active substances from cosmetics into the skin.

2. Median.

Their effect extends to the living cellular layers of the epidermis (granular, spinous, basal) and the papillary layer of the dermis.

3. Deep.

Affects the epidermis and dermis up to the middle of the mesh layer.

Medium and deep types of peeling are painful for the patient. They require more in-depth knowledge and caution from the cosmetologist, since controlled tissue damage occurs during care.

Damage triggers regeneration processes. Blood rushes to the skin, collagen and elastin fibers are actively synthesized in the dermis, and new, young layers of cells are formed. As a result, it becomes smoother and softer, unevenness, wrinkles, scars and pigmentation spots disappear from its surface.

The deeper the peeling, the longer the recovery period and the stronger the aesthetic effects of rejuvenation.

Depending on the method of exposure, the following types of peelings are distinguished:

1. Mechanical.
2. Chemical.
3. Ultrasonic.
4. Laser.

Types of mechanical peeling

1. Cosmetic.

Removal of impurities, skin flakes and dead cells is carried out using abrasive particles evenly distributed in a semi-liquid soapy base of the cosmetic product.

The following are added to cosmetics as an abrasive: crushed apricot kernels and nut shells, sea salt, coral chips, clay and algae particles.

Exfoliating cosmetics are called peels or scrubs. They are used in home care and salon treatments to cleanse the skin and stimulate cell renewal. Frequency of use: 1-3 times a week.

Most scrubs have a superficial effect. The exception is products containing coral chips. They have a superficial-medium mechanism of action and are used in a beauty salon.

Peels and scrubs of high quality for professional procedures and home care “Algologie” and “Beauty Style” can be found here.

2. Hardware.

Involves exposure of the skin to aluminum oxide microcrystals. They are applied to the surface and removed along with dead cells and impurities using a vacuum system.

Microdermabrasion also uses devices that are equipped with diamond-coated applicators.

The device has rotating attachments in the form of brushes made of natural bristles.

Under the influence of hardware peeling, the blood flow to the tissues increases, the skin and pores are cleansed, and dead cells are exfoliated. After the procedure, the face becomes smoother, softer and more elastic, and acquires a healthy and even color.

The depth of the effect is regulated by the cosmetologist: it is superficial or superficial-medium level.

Hardware peelings can be combined well with manual cleansing and cosmetic programs for oily and aging skin.

It is not recommended to carry out microdermabrasion and brossage in case of increased sensitivity, irritation and damage, inflammatory and allergic diseases.

Chemical peelings in cosmetology

The technique is based on the interaction of the skin with chemicals, most often acids. As a result of this interaction, the cells get burned. Then they gradually die and expose deeper cellular layers, smoother and fresher.

Standard Chemical Peel Protocol

1. Makeup removal and skin cleansing.
2. Applying an acid or other chemical to the face using a brush or cotton pad.
3. The composition is kept on the face for the required amount of time, different for each drug. Then the acid is neutralized with a special alkaline composition and washed off with water.
4. Soothing mask.
5. Protective cream.

Contraindications:

Inflammatory skin diseases (eczema, psoriasis, herpes), tendency to form keloid scars, abrasions and scratches, intolerance to drug components, allergic rashes.

All types of chemical peels are not recommended in the summer: solar radiation can lead to the formation of age spots on renewed skin.

The procedure is contraindicated for pregnant women.

The depth of exposure depends on pH and concentration of the composition, as well as exposure time.
To purchase professional cosmetics and chemical peeling compositions, follow the link.

Types of chemical peels

Surface

Most often, fruit alpha-hydroxy acids are used for the procedure: glycolic, lactic, citric, grape. When applied to the skin, they dissolve the cells of the stratum corneum of the epidermis.
In addition to cleansing and activating renewal, organic acids have other positive effects on the skin:

1. moisturizing;
2. anti-inflammatory;
3. normalization of the sebaceous glands.
4. pigmenting.
5. antiseptic.

Superficial chemical peeling is indicated for hyperkeratosis, acne and post-acne phenomena, oily skin, enlarged pores, early age-related changes (fine wrinkles, superficial pigmentation).

To achieve a lasting result, a course is required: 10-15 sessions once a week.

Median

It is carried out using preparations of 25-30% trichloroacetic acid and 30% salicylic acid. These substances dissolve the cell layers up to and including the papillary layer.

In response to chemical irritation, the skin turns red and swells. The recovery period lasts 1 week; During this time, dead cells are completely exfoliated.

Medium types of chemical peels are used to combat age-related skin changes: wrinkles, pigmentation spots, decreased skin turgor.

Also, chemicals have an anti-inflammatory and antiseptic effect, normalize the functioning of the sebaceous glands. Therefore, medium peels are used in the complex treatment of acne.

Another area of ​​application of the compositions is the treatment of scars and stretch marks.

Deep

For the procedure, compositions with phenol are most often used. The drug has a deep effect up to the middle of the reticular layer of the dermis and promotes pronounced skin renewal. First of all, phenol peeling is indicated for the correction of pronounced age-related changes in men and women after 40 years.

Indications for phenol peeling:

1. Wrinkles and folds: nasolabial, glabellar, creases around the lips and eyes.
2. Hyperpigmentation.
3. Flabbiness of the skin.
4. Scars and stretch marks.
5. Photoaging.

Rehabilitation after the procedure is long: peeling completely disappears after 4-6 weeks. To avoid complications, the patient must strictly follow the doctor’s recommendations regarding pre-peel preparation and post-peel care.

After rehabilitation, the face looks 10 years younger on average. The procedure is carried out once, the effect lasts for several years.

Phenol peeling should not be performed on patients with severe diseases of the cardiovascular system, liver and kidneys.

Ultrasonic peeling in a beauty salon

It is a hardware superficial cleansing procedure, during which dead cells are removed from the facial skin and the pores are cleaned.

2. Cleansing the skin.

1. Oily and combination skin.
2. Dryness and flaking.
3. Dull, “stressed” skin.
4. Photoaging.

2. Application of a special ultrasonic peeling product.

You will find professional cosmetics for ultrasonic peeling here

3. The cosmetologist places the radiator blade at an angle of 45 degrees and treats the skin of the face with it, moving it slowly, smoothly and without pressure. Lasts 10-15 minutes.

4. Mask and cream according to skin type.

1. Individual intolerance.
2. Pregnancy.
3. Fever.
4. Abrasions and scratches.
5. Inflammatory and allergic skin diseases.

Laser peeling in a beauty salon

The skin is exposed to a laser beam. The effect of the procedure depends on the type of laser radiation and the depth of its penetration.

Types of laser peeling:

Cold peeling

Contraindications to laser peeling:

1. Oncology.
2. Diseases of the heart and blood vessels.
3. General and local infectious process.
4. Pregnancy.
5. Blood clotting disorders.
6. Fillers at the site of treatment.
7. Autoimmune diseases and connective tissue diseases.

Peeling procedures help cope with various aesthetic problems.

In order for them to be as effective as possible, it is imperative to take into account the patient’s skin type and follow the technology for performing each technique.

Day after day, the skin is exposed to the negative effects of many factors that lead to a deterioration in its condition. Various cosmetics and procedures, including pharmaceutical facial peels, help to cope with the consequences of this exposure.

Pharmaceutical peeling preparations

The word peeling is translated from English as exfoliation. This procedure involves the removal of dead cells, which promotes skin renewal, enhances its oxygen supply and activates blood supply.

The peeling procedure can be carried out at home using both ready-made products offered by cosmetics manufacturers and those prepared independently.

Much of what is sold in pharmacies can be an alternative to expensive cosmetics.

Badyaga

Freshwater coelenterate sponge in the form of powder or ready-made gel helps fight swelling and redness. Thanks to its noticeable tightening effect, badiaga has acquired anti-aging status.

The powdered product must be diluted with hydrogen peroxide and applied to the face moistened with water. Keep the mask for no more than 5–10 minutes (until you feel a strong burning sensation). After applying the procedure, temporary redness is observed (up to several hours), which zinc ointment will help to cope with.

It is better to use badyaga gel by mixing it with liquid honey in a ratio of 1 to 1. Apply for 15 minutes and rinse with water at room temperature.

Calcium chloride

The peeling roll can be used in two ways. In the first case, calcium chloride is applied to a clean, dry face; after it has dried, a second layer should be applied. When both layers are dry, lather your hands with baby soap and gently roll the lumps off your face using massaging movements.

Second option involves performing the following steps:

1. Lather your hands with dye-free baby soap.
2. Dip your fingertips in calcium chloride.
3. Apply the foam to the face with massage movements.
4. After 5–7 minutes, the mask can be washed off.

The peeling effect is achieved due to the fact that calcium chloride, in the process of interaction with soap, forms a calcium salt of higher carboxylic acids, which rolls off, removing the stratum corneum of the epidermis.

Important! It is recommended to carry out the first procedure with a 5% solution and gradually switch to a 10% solution. A contraindication for the use of calcium chloride is the presence of inflammatory elements.

Boric alcohol

Boric acid, which is part of the composition, has disinfecting properties, tightens pores and has a beneficial effect on the regeneration process.

A cleansing lotion is prepared based on boric acid. Ingredients: St. John's wort decoction (200 ml), lavender oil (10 drops), boric alcohol (1 pack), camphor alcohol (100 ml), calendula alcohol tincture (100 ml). Mix the broth with oil and pour in the alcohol components, pour the mixture into a container with a screw-on lid, and store in the refrigerator for no longer than six months. You can wipe your face with this lotion in the morning and evening. The result of use is a reduction in acne and acne.

Gel Curiosin

The pharmaceutical purpose of the drug is the treatment of bedsores, trophic wounds and fistulas. But due to the presence of a large amount of hyaluronic acid, which dissolves dead cells, it deeply cleanses pores, moisturizes and evens out the skin.. Curiosin can be used as an anti-aging agent. The gel should be applied 2 times a day, after removing makeup.

Blepharogel

The use of the drug as an anti-aging peeling is justified by the presence of hyaluronic acid and aloe juice in it. The gel is applied to the face locally (mainly on the skin of the eyelids) with patting movements. The product should be used for at least one and a half months. The first signs of skin improvement should be expected no earlier than after 3 weeks.

Important! Only Blepharogel No. 1 is used for cosmetic purposes. The use of the gel by girls under 25 years of age is not advisable.

Homemade peeling recipes from pharmaceutical products

You can prepare the peeling yourself. To do this, you need to purchase the components in advance at the pharmacy. Here are the most successful options:

Pharmacy glycolic

Cleansing the epidermis with glycolic acid molecules is a common manipulation in beauty salons. Its popularity is due to the fact that it is suitable for any skin type. The effectiveness of peeling is due to its antioxidant effect, activation of elastin production, smoothing and moisturizing effects.

The procedure using glycolic acid is carried out as follows.

1. The drug is applied to clean, dry skin using a pipette and distributed over the skin, excluding the area around the mouth and eyes.
2. After 2-3 minutes (later the time can be increased to 10 minutes), the acid must be neutralized using baking soda: soak a cotton swab in a soda solution (8 mg per 100 ml of water) and wipe your face with it, starting from those areas where the strongest burning and redness.

For the first session, it is better to use glycolic acid in a minimum concentration, gradually increasing the percentage of acid in the solution. The procedure should be repeated 2 times a week for 1–2 months.

Retinoic (yellow) peeling with Dimexide

Before you begin the peeling procedure, you need to prepare your skin. To do this, dissolve 1 teaspoon of Dimexide in ¼ glass of water and wipe your face with it. After 45 minutes, neutralize the acid with a solution of baking soda (8 mg per 100 ml of water).

Now you can proceed directly to exfoliation. Retinoic ointment must be mixed with vitamin E (1/1). Apply the composition to the skin and leave for 20 minutes. After this, neutralize and rinse with water after 5–8 hours.

The result of course use (3-4 sessions) will be soft and velvety skin.

Peeling with amber and fruit acid

In addition to its general healing and cleansing effect, succinic acid has the effect of a biostimulator, which triggers regenerative processes and tones the skin.

Recipe: 2-3 tablets of succinic acid should be crushed to a powder, diluted with 2 tablespoons of boiled water or orange juice. Chopped citrus zest will help enhance the effect.

After the solution is ready, the skin needs to be degreased with tonic or lotion, steamed a little and applied the first layer of the mask. After 5 minutes you can apply the second layer. After 5–10 minutes, the product must be washed off.

Photos before and after

Solving various problems

Now let’s look at the features of using exfoliants to solve various aesthetic problems of different types of dermis:

Dry skin

Moisturizing glycerin peeling will help here. Glycerin is famous for its moisturizing properties, and its ability to attract water molecules has made it a popular cosmetic ingredient.

Based on a pharmaceutical solution of glycerin, you can prepare a moisturizing exfoliant mask. To do this, take the solution and mix it with boric acid and ammonia (2 teaspoons each), add grated baby soap in the same amount. Apply the mask to the skin until dry, then rinse with water.

Black dots

Mattifying exfoliant mask. A black scrub will help clear your skin of blackheads and get rid of toxins. You can prepare it from crushed activated carbon tablets (10 pieces), diluted with water until it becomes sour cream. Keep the mask on for no more than 10 minutes, then rinse with water.

Problem skin

Skin prone to increased sebum production requires special cleansing measures.

Aspirin mask eliminates shine in the T-zone, removes excess fat from the surface of the skin, helps narrow pores and cleanse sebaceous ducts.

Recipe: Grind an aspirin tablet and mix it with liquid honey until creamy. Apply the mask for 10 minutes, then rinse with warm water.

Sensitive skin prone to allergic reactions

Most exfoliating products are not suitable for people with sensitive skin prone to allergic reactions. The solution in this case would be peeling with lactic acid.

This is the mildest option of exfoliation, which gives the skin elasticity, tones and moisturizes.

To carry out peeling, you can use lactic acid in bottles or purchase Hilak Forte drops, which consist of 90% of this active substance.

Attention! For the first procedure, it is better to dilute lactic acid with water to obtain a 5% solution (1/32).

Soak a cotton pad in the mixture and apply to your face, starting from the forehead. When using for the first time, do not keep the product on for more than 2 minutes. With repeated manipulations, you can gradually increase the exposure time. It is better to rinse off the solution with cool water.

Ready-made cosmetic peelings

Cosmetics manufacturers can offer ready-made pharmaceutical products with exfoliant action. Most of them are based on acids in varying concentrations. These drugs will help lighten the skin, smooth out wrinkles, cope with skin rashes, smooth out small scars and scars, and improve cell regeneration.

1. With AHA 8%, manufacturer - Premium (Russia). Price - about 700 rubles. Contains fruit acids (malic, citric) in small concentrations. The gel is intended to eliminate skin flaking and seborrhea and effectively fights hyperpigmentation.

1. GLYCOLIC (for eyelids) from SKIN LABORATORY (USA). Price - about 800 rubles. An additional bonus of using the product is strengthening blood vessels and increasing skin elasticity.

1. GLYCO LIPOSOM from Biomatrix (France). Price - about 800 rubles. The plant biocomplex with liposomes, which is included in the composition, actively reduces the depth of wrinkles, not only facial wrinkles, but also senile ones, and also slows down the aging process.

Procedure protocol

General recommendations for cleaning at home and safety measures:

1. The first exfoliation procedure should be carried out with a preliminary allergy test: apply a small amount of the selected product to the elbow area, observe the skin reaction during the day. If uncharacteristic rashes appear at the application site, it is better to avoid using the product. Please note that slight redness and burning without causing severe discomfort are normal.
2. Do not use decorative cosmetics after the procedure.
3. Contraindications for cleaning are any damage to the integrity of the epithelium, herpes and other inflammations on the skin, high fever, pregnancy and breastfeeding, colds, infectious and viral diseases, and allergic rashes.
4. To reduce discomfort during peeling, you can resort to cooling your face with a hairdryer (cold stream).
5. Before applying any product, the skin must be cleansed and degreased (tonic or lotion, preferably containing alcohol).
6. After cleansing, sun rays are contraindicated for the skin, so cleansing manipulations should be carried out during the period of least solar activity: autumn, winter.

Opinion of cosmetologists

Experts do not recommend deep facial cleansing with chemicals at home. However, gentle superficial cleansing can be done independently and, according to cosmetologists, will cope with many skin problems. Here are some reviews from beauty experts on the most popular types of at-home peels.

Patient reviews

The opinions of women who have used pharmaceutical preparations for peelings are different.

Some people note the positive effect of the event.

For others, the experience of using pharmaceutical drugs has become negative.

Most people advise seeking help from professionals.

Whatever cleansing method you choose, strictly follow the recommendations, and then beautiful, well-groomed skin will become your best decoration.

Useful videos

Facial peeling at home. A drug from a pharmacy for peeling.

Acid peeling at home.