Aha acids in cosmetics

Exfoliation, or the more familiar word for us “exfoliation”: a daily necessity. Our skin is not able to completely get rid of the stratum corneum of dead cells on its own, and if it is not helped, they will accumulate in a layer on the surface of the skin, interfering with the beneficial effects of your skincare products and preventing oxygen from entering the epidermis.

Daily use of an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) or beta hydroxy acid (BHA) helps remove dead skin cells, even out skin tone, and make it smooth and soft.

What are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)?

Alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble substances that act as chemical, rather than physical, exfoliants. They help in the process of removing old skin cells, which are replaced by new, fresh ones. For this reason, AHAs are great ingredients for people with dry, dull or uneven complexions, or damaged or sensitive skin.

These ingredients can also help boost the effectiveness of other skin care products you use, since exfoliating the skin of dirt and makeup residue makes it easier for the products to penetrate the skin, which will help them do the most good.

What are beta hydroxy acids?

Beta hydroxy acids are lipid-soluble substances, which means they are able to penetrate the skin through the sebaceous glands. This characteristic makes BHAs suitable ingredients for people with oily skin, which is why salicylic acid, the most common skincare BHA, is often used to treat acne. Unlike AHAs, BHAs are generally more beneficial when they are present in low concentrations in skin care products. Therefore, seeing salicylic acid listed in the middle or end of the ingredients list on your acne cream is normal and even preferred.

How do acids work?

Both BHAs and AHAs have excellent exfoliating abilities (removing dead skin cells), but AHAs work by reacting with the top layer of the epidermis to weaken the binding properties of the lipids that hold dead skin cells together. This allows the outer shell to “dissolve”, revealing the underlying skin. Exfoliants begin the production of new skin cells. AHAs are also thought to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, roughness and age-related pigmentation, and may also stimulate collagen and elastin production in the skin.

In cosmetics, active AHA acids are usually mentioned in second or third place. Such products will most likely contain the recommended concentration of 5-8%. There are several different types of AHAs, most of which are fruit and lactic acids. Here is a list of the 5 most active AHA acids:

1. Glycolic acid - sugar cane;
2. Lactic acid - milk;
3. Malic acid - apples and pears;
4. Citric acid - oranges and lemons;
5. Tartaric acid - grapes.

Glycolic and lactic acids penetrate the skin a little better than others, so you'll see these AHAs in products more often.

How do BHA acids work?

Indeed, there is only one type of BHA acid widely used in the skin care industry, and that is salicylic acid. Like AHAs, BHA works well as an exfoliant, penetrating deep into pores to slough off dead skin cells to make room for new ones. After six months of daily use, BHA has been shown in clinical studies to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, skin texture and pigmentation caused by sun damage.

If AHA acids work at a higher concentration, since they are softer, then at the same time with BHA acid everything is different, it itself is very concentrated. Therefore, you should not look for it in the first three ingredients. Look for it in the middle or at the bottom of the product ingredients list. BHA in skin care products usually works best at a concentration of about 1-2%.

What to choose: BHA or AHA?

AHA acid is an ideal choice for those with sensitive and dry skin. AHA group acids are not able to penetrate deep into pores, therefore they do not cause dehydration and irritation.

BHAs are ideal for acne-prone skin because BHA acids are able to penetrate deep into pores and unclog them. BHA acids also help tighten pores and have antiseptic and skin soothing effects. BHA acids are also one of the most effective remedies in the fight against rosacea.

While both AHAs and BHAs can be beneficial in skin care, you need to decide which results you want.

For example, if you want:

1. Minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles;
2. Improve the appearance of facial tone and skin texture;
3. Get rid of dull skin.

In this case, AHA acids are your best friend.

But if you want:

1. Balance the sebum content on your skin;
2. Treat blackheads, subcutaneous skin and acne.

Then definitely choose BHA acid.

How to get the most benefit from using AHA and BHA acids?

1. Apply an AHA or BHA exfoliant after using your cleanser (foam, balm) or toner.
2. You can use it around the eye area, but not on the eyelid or directly under the eye (along the lower lash line).
3. You don't have to wait for BHA or AHA products to dry on your skin; apply any other product (serum, eye cream or sunscreen) immediately after applying the exfoliant.
4. Experiment with different AHAs and BHAs to see what concentration of the ingredient in the product gives you the best results.
5. How often you should exfoliate your skin with AHA or BHA acids depends on your skin type. Typically, those with oily skin will benefit from using an AHA or BHA exfoliant twice a day, every day. Those with dry or sensitive skin are advised to use such products once a day or every other day. Check what works best for you.

Advice: if your AHA or BHA product has a water-like texture, apply it with a cotton pad; if it is lotion or gel, apply it with your fingers.

Why don't I just use a scrub or cleansing brush to exfoliate my skin?

Most scrubs have a rough, uneven texture that can be too harsh and abrasive, causing micro-tears in the skin. Many scrubbing brushes are also a problem because they have stiff bristles and have the same negative impact on the vulnerable surface of the skin.

The exception is gentle exfoliants and gentle cleansing brushes, but even these are best used as an additional cleansing step and are not a replacement for what a properly formulated AHA or BHA exfoliant can do. Scrubs simply don't work as deeply or effectively as AHA and BHA exfoliants!

Does using BHA or AHA increase your sensitivity to UV radiation?

Whenever you exfoliate your skin with scrubs, brushes, AHAs or BHAs, you are removing layers of dead skin. Dead skin provides you with little UV protection on its own, so in some ways it does become more vulnerable. However, this problem can be solved by simply using sunscreen every day, which will not only protect it from photoaging, but also moisturize it.

AHA and BHA... For some, this is a simple set of letters, but for beautyholics and cosmetologists - a small exfoliative universe that helps renew and put the skin in order. But what is their fundamental difference from each other? Why are they even needed? How to use these acids correctly? What tools should you pay special attention to? We answer these and other questions.

AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHA (beta hydroxy acids)

We start with the first letter of the alphabet, including Greek. Alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble substances that cannot penetrate deep into pores. They act very gently on the surface and do not damage the deep layers of the epidermis, so they are suitable for those with dry, thin and sensitive skin. AHA acids are based on plant products (fruits mainly) or milk, which gently exfoliate dead skin cells, minimize the appearance of fine lines, improve complexion and skin texture, and also fight the appearance of age-related pigmentation. In addition, these acids are able to retain moisture in the skin, which makes it healthy, fresh and hydrated.

Beta hydroxy acids are concentrated fat-soluble acids that, unlike their alpha counterparts, work in the deep layers of the epidermis, penetrating the sebaceous glands and solving more serious problems. Cosmetics with BHA acids will be an ideal beauty aid for those with oily and problem skin. Salicylic acid has antiseptic and soothing effects, and also normalizes sebum production. Like AHAs, BHAs work well as an exfoliant, exfoliating dead skin cells and stimulating the appearance of new ones and skin renewal. Regular use of beta-hydroxy acids significantly reduces the severity of wrinkles, tightens facial contours, lightens pigmentation, improves relief, eliminates acne, comedones, acne, post-acne, scars and scars, and also minimizes rosacea.

Useful tips

1. For best results, it is recommended to use AHA or BHA acids after you have thoroughly cleansed your skin with your usual cleanser.
2. Acids can be used in the area around the eyes, while avoiding contact of products containing them on the eyelid itself and directly along the growth line of the lower eyelashes.
3. After applying AHA or BHA acids, it is not necessary to wait for them to absorb or dry; you can immediately apply the care product.
4. Don't be afraid to experiment! Only by trial and error can you figure out the ideal product for your skin that will bring real benefits.
5. Those with oily and problem skin can use acid-containing cosmetics twice a day (morning and evening), while girls with thin, dry and sensitive skin can use it every other day.
6. Retinoid-containing products should be applied separately from acids so as not to cause skin irritation.
7. When using cosmetics containing AHA or BHA acids, it is necessary to apply sunscreen with a minimum sunscreen filter SPF 15. The fact is that after using products with acids, skin sensitivity increases slightly, and the absence of sunscreen can cause burns or hyperpigmentation.

TOP 7 products with AHA or BHA acids

Gel Cleansing Basic, AHA

A soft gel containing AHA acids and intended for normal to combination skin. It quickly, effectively and very delicately solves several problems at once: removes makeup, cleanses and tightens pores, has an excellent exfoliating effect, eliminates oily shine and normalizes the functioning of the sebaceous glands, evens out skin color and texture, and enhances collagen production. Daily use of the gel significantly improves the quality of the skin, making it velvety, clean, elastic and matte, and can easily replace professional cosmetic procedures. The composition includes lactic acid, grapefruit and camellia extracts, vitamin E. To avoid irritation, it is recommended to first test the product on the wrist, and only then apply to the face.

Micellar facial gel Gel Cleansing Basic, AHA (RUB 1,640)

Even Skintone Serum, Ultraceuticals

Serum from an Australian brand of medicinal cosmetics. It appropriately combines two types of acids – AHA and BHA, so the product solves almost all existing beauty problems. Even Skintone Serum has several varieties: Serum - for normal skin, Complex - for oily, dense and porous skin, Sensitive - for sensitive skin. For each skin type there is a product that is suitable for it.

The serum has a very strong, professional effect, so you need to use it at home carefully. The smell is quite pungent, but you quickly get used to it, the product is absorbed instantly and does not leave any unpleasant sensations behind. The price is a little steep, but the product is quite economical in use, and also has an amazing effect: dissolves sebaceous plugs and blackheads, evens out color and texture, eliminates pigmentation and post-acne, minimizes inflammation, moisturizes, softens and tightens the skin. The only thing you need to pay attention to is that after using the serum, your skin may become slightly more sensitive, so do not forget to apply sunscreen.

Even Skintone Serum, Ultraceuticals (RUB 8,100)

Clarifying Lotion 4, Clinique

Exfoliating lotion with salicylic acid (belongs to BHA acids) delicately removes dead cells, normalizes sebum production, whitens the skin, tightens pores, restores water-lipid balance, improves blood circulation and reduces acne. The product does not sting or tighten the skin; on the contrary, it gives a feeling of cleanliness, freshness and moisture. The lotion formula is aimed at improving the health of the epidermis; it also perfectly prepares the skin for further care, enhancing the penetrating capabilities of other cosmetics. As a result of regular use of beauty products, the skin becomes smooth, silky, radiant and healthy, inflammation and other imperfections disappear.

Exfoliating lotion Clarifying Lotion 4, Clinique (RUB 1,600)

Bio Peel Gauze Peeling Wine, Neogen Dermalogy

These are 2 in 1 discs, which are 30 of the softest cotton double-sided napkins, soaked in acid tonic and antioxidants. They are incredibly easy to use and have a simply unimaginable effect (and the discs are universal and suitable for any skin type). The result is noticeable after the first use! Pores are cleansed, sebaceous plugs and blackheads are dissolved, the number of rashes is reduced, peeling is removed, scars are reduced to nothing, the functioning of the sebaceous glands is normalized, pigment spots are lightened - you can continue endlessly, you just have to try.

In addition to the tartaric, lactic, and glycolic acids contained in the discs, they contain resveratrol, an ingredient that fights premature aging, raspberry extract, which has the ability to smooth out expression lines and improve skin vitality, and grape seed oil, which moisturizes and nourishes the epidermis.

Peeling discs Bio Peel Gauze Peeling Wine, Neogen Dermalogy (RUB 2,700)

Glycolic Peel Mask, Caudalie

A soft peeling mask with glycolic acid is an ideal assistant for creating “photoshopped” skin. The consistency of the product is quite thick, but very delicate, similar to thick whipped cream. The mask acts purposefully: it seems to know exactly what is required of it at the moment, so it solves this problem. First-class cleanses the skin, fights imperfections and dull complexion, regulates sebum production, cleanses pores efficiently, dries out inflammation and gives the skin a real glow, restores tone. The epidermis does not injure, does not clog pores, acts non-aggressively and in just 10 minutes! You are guaranteed an even and beautiful complexion.

Peeling mask Glycolic Peel Mask, Caudalie (RUB 1,299)

Smoothie Peeling Cream Sunshine Golden Kiwi, Holika Holika

This peeling cream based on fruit acids gently cleanses the skin of dead cells, enriches the cells with oxygen, improves the relief and complexion, evens out the tone, cleanses the pores of all kinds of impurities, and accelerates the regeneration process. Crushed apricot kernels and almonds act as exfoliating particles; AHA acids include extracts of kiwi, blueberry, grape seed, lemon, orange, sugar cane and rice. The only negative is that the peeling is somewhat aggressive, so it should be used with extreme caution by those with sensitive and thin skin.

Exfoliating cream Smoothie Peeling Cream Sunshine Golden Kiwi, Holika Holika (850 RUR)

Sleep and Peel, Filorga

The product contains six acids such as AHA and BHA, including glycolic, lactic, salicylic, azelaic, pyruvic and malic. All together they have an amazing effect: stimulate cellular renewal, eliminate expression wrinkles, tighten the oval of the face, lighten pigmentation, even out the relief, improve color and tone, cleanse and narrow pores. In just one night, the cream erases signs of fatigue from the face, reduces age-related changes, making the skin healthy, firm, dense, elastic, smooth and radiant. No oiliness or clogged pores – nothing but benefits!

Night smoothing cream Sleep and Peel, Filorga (RUB 4,800)

While looking for another jar in a cosmetic store, you probably noticed these abbreviations: AHA and BHA. And they wondered - who is this and what do they eat with?

If you've never used acids on your face, but want to get started and finally understand AHAs and BHAs, this post is for you. In it we will talk about the most popular acids in cosmetics, their types, properties and features. We will also explain which type of acids - AHA or BHA - to choose depending on your skin type and pressing problems.

Hydroxy acids

AHA and BHA acids belong to a large and friendly family hydroxy acids (hydroxy acids).

AHA fruit acids

Fruit acids are called alpha hydroxy acids (alpha hydroxy acids). Abbreviated as AHA (AHA) acid.

The fruit nickname AHA acids was given because many of them live in fruits. Read more about the habitats of alpha hydroxy acids here.

Types of fruit acids

IN cosmetic worldwide, AHA acids include:

BHA acids

Brothers of AHA acids are BHA acids - beta hydroxy acids (beta hydroxy acids).

IN cosmetic worldWhen talking about BHA acids, we mean one acid - salicylic acid.

Word to the chemists

IN chemical world - from the point of view of the structure of the molecule - hydroxy acids have a different classification.

Chemically, AHA acids include:

Chemically, BHA acids include:

However, malic and citric acids are also also have the properties of AHA acids. Therefore, in cosmetics they are classified as fruit acids (AHA).

Where is salicylic acid, you ask? Salicylic acid is classified as a BHA, but this is chemically incorrect. Salicylic acid and its derivatives (salicylates) do not belong to BHA in their chemical structure and sit on a separate shelf.

There are many more hydroxy acids than we have listed. In this post we will analyze only the most popular ones. We are not chemists, and we will not delve into the structure of molecules. We'll talk about acids from a cosmetics perspective.

1. About AHA acids - glycolic, lactic, mandelic, tartaric, citric, malic.
2. About BHA acid - salicylic acid.

Fruit acids - glycolic, lactic and salicylic acids - are the most popular and often used in cosmetology. Their effectiveness has been confirmed by multiple clinical studies.

AHA: the effect of fruit acids on the skin

Why use fruit acids for your face? See for yourself. AHA acids:

1. exfoliate;
2. stimulate regeneration;
3. stimulate the synthesis of collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid and ceramides;
4. moisturize;
5. increase firmness and elasticity;
6. have an anti-age effect;
7. lighten;
8. provide antioxidant protection.

Acids, such as citric acid, are also used in cosmetics as a pH regulator.

BHA: the effect of salicylic acid on the skin

VNA has no less cool properties. Salicyl:

1. deeply cleanses pores, dissolving fat from the inside;
2. normalize the activity of the sebaceous glands;
3. reduces skin oiliness;
4. relieves inflammation;
5. fights germs;
6. prevents acne.

Read more about the mechanism of action of acids on the skin here.

From a cosmetological point of view, the main difference between AHA and BHA acids is solubility.

1. AHA - water soluble. They act on the surface of the skin, in the epidermis and in high concentrations in the dermis. Does not penetrate pores.
2. BHA (salicylic acid) is fat soluble. It acts inside the pores, on the surface of the skin, in the epidermis and, in high concentrations, in the dermis.

The agony of choice

So, what to choose among the variety of acids? Let's figure it out.

When to choose AHA acids

1. for aging skin;
2. to combat photoaging;
3. to smooth out wrinkles;
4. for pigment spots and post-acne;
5. to moisturize the skin;
6. for dry skin;
7. for normal skin;
8. with young skin no problem.

Keep in mind: fruit AHA acids are not the best help for problem skin. Better take a closer look at salicylic acid.

When to choose BHA acids

1. for oily skin;
2. for problem skin and acne-prone skin;
3. to fight acne;
4. to combat blackheads;
5. to cleanse forgotten pores (closed comedones);
6. with enlarged pores;
7. with milia;
8. for rosacea (there are suggestions that salicylic acid fights microbes on the surface of the skin that provoke rosacea, and it also relieves inflammation and redness).

Important! Salicylic acid should not be used if you are allergic to aspirin.

If your skin is aging with wrinkles, but also oily, choose salicylic acid. Better yet, combine AHA and BHA acids in your care.

Read this post about the properties of each specific acid.

Summarize

AHA and BHA belong to the hydroxy acid family.

In the cosmetic world, AHA acids include glycolic, lactic, mandelic, tartaric, malic and citric acids. The only BHA is salicylic acid.

The main difference between AHAs and BHAs: AHAs are water soluble and do not penetrate pores; BHA (salicylic acid) is fat-soluble and penetrates pores well.

For hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, photoaging, aged, dry and normal skin, choose AHA acids.

For oily, problem skin and acne, choose BHA (salicylic acid).

Do you use products with acids? Share in the comments.

In the next post we’ll talk more about cosmetics with acids - creams, lotions, masks. About the working concentration of acids, and how to use them correctly.

Improve your cosmetic literacy, stay with us and be beautiful.

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