Cosmetics with acids from the company

According to vague memories of a school chemistry course, acid is something caustic and destructive. But in the beauty industry there are substances with much more gentle properties. Details are in our article.

1. What acids are used in cosmetics and why?
2. Precautionary measures
3. Review of creams with acids

What acids are used in cosmetics and why?

Let's go back to school chemistry class for a moment to remember: an acid is a substance in which hydrogen atoms are combined with a group of elements, usually including oxygen. Acids are very different and not necessarily acidic. By the way, our DNA is also an acid.

Hyaluronic

A true genius of hydration and the main keeper of moisture in our skin (as well as joints). Hyaluronic acid molecules attract water, convert it into a gel and hold it, releasing it as needed so that the skin does not feel thirsty.

Amino acids are the basis of any proteins. © iStock

Fruit (alpha hydroxy, AHA)

These include acids that are usually included in peels:

These substances are truly acidic and relatively caustic. They destroy the connections between keratinized cells and promote their separation from the epidermis.

Because AHAs also remove surface pigmentation by exfoliation, they are often used in whitening products, as well as:

in formulas for problem and aging skin, which is characterized by hyperkeratosis;

in cleansers and exfoliators;

in serums and concentrates against hyperpigmentation.

Acid peels are undesirable for those with thin, dry, dehydrated skin.

Salicylic (beta-hydroxy-, BHA)

A proven ingredient in products for oily and problematic acne-prone skin. Salicylic acid, like fruit acid, has an exfoliating effect, which is also combined with an anti-inflammatory effect (it is no coincidence that this substance is the basis of aspirin).

Fruit acids provide an exfoliating effect. © iStock

Salicylic acid also affects the production of sebum, visually narrowing the pores. It is quite widespread in nature and is contained, for example, in chamomile extract.

Jasmonovaya

This natural component is very popular in modern cosmetics. Jasmonic acid produced by plants controls their growth and repairs damage. It slows down seed germination, inhibits the process of withering and falling leaves.

It is not surprising that jasmonic acid has a place in anti-aging cosmetics.

Amino acids

They are the basis of any proteins, and life in the biological sense is nothing more than the interaction of proteins. The human body is also built from them. For example, collagen is a combination of certain amino acids. Amino acids are used as cosmetic ingredients:

All of them stimulate skin regeneration and are part of intensely moisturizing and anti-aging products.

Fat

These are simply fats, lipids - their softness has become the main secret to the success of cosmetic oils and nutrients. For example, the mega-popular Omega-3, -6, -9 are fatty acids that are found in many vegetable oils widely used in the beauty industry.

Elena Eliseeva, Vichy expert, explains: “Fatty acids are a necessary building material of cell membranes and intercellular substance. Creams are recommended for external use, and products with Omega-3, -6 and -9 for diet.”

Vitamins

Ascorbic, lipoic, nicotinic - some of these “vitamin acids” have an antioxidant effect. Lipoic acid also prevents the process of glycation - the gluing of collagen fibers. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) stimulates its production.

Hyaluronic acid molecules provide water storage. © iStock

Precautionary measures

The vast majority of the acids listed above are very gentle and gentle on the skin. Perhaps only two species require special attention.

AHA acids

BHA acids

Salicylic acid, seemingly indispensable for oily skin, can dry it out. It is important to choose a product that combines this important ingredient with softening and moisturizing components.

Review of creams with acids

Hyaluronic acid

Night anti-aging care Revitalift Filler (ha), L’Oréal Paris

The highlight of the cream is highly concentrated hyaluronic acid. It’s not for nothing that the product is called a “volume restorer”: wrinkles are filled, the skin is smoothed, filled with moisture, and becomes noticeably more youthful and elastic.

Facial fluid “Genius of Hydration”, L’Oréal Paris

A new product with a light texture is an alternative to the usual moisturizer. The main component is hyaluronic acid. The fluid is used as a basic care product twice a day and retains moisture for up to 72 hours.

Night SPA care Aqualia Thermal, Vichy

The carefully crafted moisturizing formula is based on mineral-rich thermal water, and the main ingredient is hyaluronic acid. The patented aquabioryl molecule helps maintain the effect for 48 hours.

Lipohydroxy acids

Night care Normaderm Detox, Vichy

Includes the most effective acids to combat imperfections and problems of oily skin: salicylic and lipohydroxy. They cleanse the skin, exfoliate dead cells and visibly tighten pores.

A product that corrects and evens out skin texture, Micro-Blur Skin Perfector, Kiehl’s

In addition to lipohydroxy acid, the cream also contains salicylic acid, which determines the corrective effect, that is, the elimination of imperfections in problem skin.

Corrective cream-gel for problem skin Effaclar Duo (+), La Roche-Posay

Active ingredients: LHA, salicylic acid - help reduce imperfections and prevent the appearance of acne. To improve the quality of sebum, linoleic acid - vitamin F - was added to the composition.

Jasmonic acid

Super Multi-Corrective Cream, Kiehl’s

In combination with sodium hyaluronate, jasmonic acid provides an anti-aging effect. The number of fine wrinkles is reduced, the skin becomes more elastic and looks toned.

Multi-active face cream Visionnaire Crème, Lancôme

The special signaling molecule LR 2412 is based on jasmonic acid. Its renewal energy is harmoniously combined with the action of hyaluronic acid, which provides a noticeable rejuvenating effect.

Fatty acid

Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2, SkinCeuticals

It contains three main types of lipids: ceramides, cholesterol, Omega-3 and -6 fatty acids. The cream reduces visible signs of aging, makes the skin more elastic, and supports self-healing processes.

Face cream “Luxury Nutrition. The lightness of silk”, L’Oréal Paris

The formula is enriched with flower and fruit oils, that is, fatty acids, therefore it provides an excellent nutritional effect and restores natural lipid protection.

Over the past few months, the online store Hollyshop.ru has added many products with acids to its assortment. Foam washes, tonics, cleansing sponges, peeling pads, emulsions, serums, creams and even cotton swabs soaked in a concentrated solution with AHA and BHA acids... The variety of products, on the one hand, is pleasantly surprising, but, on the other hand, it can and puzzle.

In this article, we will clearly talk about cosmetics with AHA and BHA acids: we will answer frequently asked questions to eliminate difficulties in choosing the right product.

Three types of exfoliant acids

What do acids do? Acids literally dissolve keratinized, dead cells of the upper layer of skin and exfoliate them. Thanks to this, the skin, firstly, is cleansed, secondly, it is renewed and, thirdly, the active components of other products penetrate deeper into the epidermis.

Three subclasses of exfoliant acids are actively used in cosmetology: AHA (alpha-hydroxy-), BHA (beta-hydroxy-) and PHA (polyhydroxy acids).

1. AHA acids are produced from plants (hence the other name - fruit acids), milk (lactic acid), and are also artificially synthesized in the laboratory.
2. They are water soluble.
3. At a concentration of up to 4% they work to retain moisture in the skin. At a concentration of 5% or more, they act as an exfoliant.
4. AHA acids act on the surface of the skin, actively renewing it. Cosrx aha 7 whitehead power liquid anti-acne essence is especially popular.

Choose an AHA if you are concerned about:

— age spots, including post-acne;

- loss of firmness and elasticity;

- dull complexion.

The most “popular” AHA acids: glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, tartaric acid.

1. The most popular BHA acid is salicylic acid.
2. It is fat soluble.
3. It has the ability to penetrate directly into pores, dissolving sebaceous plugs and cleansing them of impurities.
4. Salicylic acid is characterized by pronounced disinfecting and anti-inflammatory properties, in addition, it is an exfoliant and fights photoaging.

Choose a BHA if you are concerned about:

- excess production of sebum;

In the composition, BHA acid is designated as: salicylic acid, сapryloyl salicylic acid, salycylate, betaine salicylate.

PHA acids are a “new word” in acids. Rescue for those with sensitive skin. Compared to AHA acids, polyhydroxy acids have larger molecules that penetrate the skin more slowly. That is why PHA acids act softer, more gentle and do not cause irritation.

Recent studies have proven the rejuvenating potential of these acids. That is, products with PHA acids act comprehensively:

— increases its barrier functions;

— stimulates the production of elastin;

In the composition, PHA acid is most often designated as: gluconolactone (gluconolactone).

What else do you need to know about acids?

Important! When using products with acids, it is important to follow the following rules:

1. Be sure to protect your skin with sunscreens with a protection factor higher than 30. Acids increase skin sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation. Even if you use an acid-containing product at night, do not forget to apply SPF cream in the morning.
2. In order not to provoke excessive skin irritation, it is recommended to start using products with a high concentration of acids once a week. Gradually increase the amount of use to 2-3 times a week. Please note that slight temporary skin irritation after first use is normal.
3. Do not use acidic products with other exfoliants that contain high concentrations of vitamin C or A, or other products with AHA/BHA acids. Or use them on different days.
4. When using products with a high acid content, avoid “mechanical” peeling - the use of scrubs and wash brushes.

The main thing is to listen to your feelings. This is the only way to understand whether the product is right for you or not. Is it necessary to adjust the frequency of use or is this not necessary?

If instead of a smooth, soft and even complexion you get dryness, tightness, burning, irritation, rosacea, rashes, then this is a sure sign that you overdid it with acids and the skin has become dehydrated and sensitive.

Among cosmetic products, cream with acids for the face has gained considerable popularity among both women and men. The reason is ease of use and versatility. The product can be used at any age against many defects and imperfections of the skin. Some drugs are in particular demand and have received many flattering reviews on the vast pages of the Internet. Let's try to determine the best compositions and understand their advantages and disadvantages.

Which skin are suitable for acids?

Not so long ago, face cream with fruit acids was used only by cosmetologists - it was believed that they were unsafe and could cause harm if used incorrectly. Now the product can be found in any pharmacy; you do not need a recommendation from a specialist or physician to purchase it. Despite its availability, you should not go shopping without first consulting a specialist.

You can use the products on all types of skin if problems arise:

1. acne, blackheads;
2. acne;
3. unhealthy dull complexion;
4. disorders in the skin texture;
5. active work of the sebaceous glands, causing excessive oiliness;
6. too dry dermis;
7. lack of moisture in the epidermal tissues;
8. wrinkles, furrows, folds;
9. sagging, sagging skin.

Carry out skin care with products based on fruit acid constantly - only this will allow you to achieve the necessary results and get rid of unwanted defects. We should not forget that some components of the products are able to penetrate deep into the tissues of the epidermis, causing irreversible processes. A careful study of the list of prohibitions and application features will help prevent complications.

How to choose a face cream with acids?

When choosing a drug that can cope with problems on the face, be sure to determine which defects its effect will be directed against. Only after this can you go to the pharmacy and purchase the product. Be sure to study the composition - it is the components that determine how effective the procedures will be.

Acid-based products may contain the following acids:

1. hyaluronic (polysaccharides);
2. glycolic (AHA);
3. salicylic acid (VCA);
4. dairy (ANA);
5. azelaic (a group of antiseptics).

You can learn more about acids in the video:

The ANA group is used in the absence of serious problems. It is most often recommended for the following defects:

1. post-acne;
2. age-related changes (wrinkles, sagging, sagging);
3. photoaging;
4. dry skin prone to peeling;
5. normal dermis without pronounced defects.

The VHA group is recommended for complications and problems that require immediate intervention with powerful substances. Typically, drugs are used if there are skin flaws:

1. profuse rashes;
2. inflammatory processes;
3. acne;
4. clogged or enlarged pores.

Polysaccharides are used in cosmetics in the following cases:

1. changes in facial relief;
2. deep folds;
3. dehydrated dermis;
4. advanced age-related changes.

Helpful advice! If you have any doubts about which product to entrust for facial care, be sure to ask a cosmetologist for advice. The wrong remedy will cause harm, complications or side effects.

The best cosmetics

When choosing good face creams, you should take into account the characteristics of the skin - often the drug is contraindicated. Another rule that you need to use when purchasing a product is that sensitive skin may experience an allergic reaction under the influence of some components.

There is one way to prevent side effects - carefully study the composition, find out if there are any prohibited ingredients. If the body reacts unpredictably to at least one of them - rashes, extensive redness or itching appear, it is better to purchase a facial composition from a different brand. You should not focus on cost - cheap drugs often have an excellent effect on the skin.

AHA fruit acids

AHA acid is a substance obtained from milk or plant materials (fruits, sugar cane). In the production of aha cream, a natural product is usually used, but it happens that it is replaced by an identical element produced in the laboratory. The effects of the natural substance and the analogue are almost the same. The drugs are suitable for all skin types and rarely cause side effects.

A cream with aha must contain lactic or glycolic acid. The peculiarity of the substances is that beneficial elements are able to penetrate deep into the tissues of the dermis and affect skin defects from the inside. Another advantage of an AHA-based cream is the activation of the natural processes of collagen production. This immediately affects the condition of the face - the dermis becomes elastic, folds and furrows disappear, and the pores narrow.

Glycolic acid

Glycolic acid is recommended for people with active sebaceous glands. Oily shine, dull complexion, unhealthy skin - these defects will disappear with regular use of the cream. With long-term use, you can get rid of pigment stains and blackheads. Enlarged pores are another flaw that will certainly disappear after daily manipulation.

Sebium Serum Bioderma

The drug is recommended for use after 35 years - it copes well with age-related changes and has a positive effect on loose, sagging skin. The cream can be used against wrinkles and furrows. Active components penetrate into the deep layers of the dermis, saturate the tissues with moisture, and prevent its loss.

Recommended for use before bedtime. Can be used on dry or age-sensitive skin. The concentration of the active substance is low, information about this is contained on the packaging. After application, a pleasant discomfort in the form of tingling is possible. This is normal - beneficial ingredients penetrate into the deep layers of the dermis. It is better to start with 2-3 applications per week.

10% Glycolic Ac >The peculiarity of the cream is that it is available in two forms with different concentrations of glycolic acid. Cosmetologists advise starting with gentle preparations and only switching to a more powerful cream if there are no adverse skin reactions. Use only in the evening. The first applications may cause a strong tingling sensation, but this will subside over time.

Salicylic acid

For rashes and large pigment spots, a cream is used in which the active ingredient is salicylic acid. You can use it to cleanse the skin - the drug has an antibacterial effect. Destroying bacteria, smoothing the face, drying the skin, returning a healthy tone - the product can cope with all defects.

Pure skin active (from Garnier)

The cream is recommended for profuse rashes, inflammatory processes occurring on the face, hyperpigmentation, and acne marks. Can be used in the evening or throughout the day. Used at a young or old age - the product has no restrictions and is harmless to the epidermis.

It is used for enlarged pores, actively destroys bacteria on the skin, and prevents the spread of the inflammatory process. Can be used to heal pores and maintain a healthy skin tone. It is recommended to apply to the face during the day, but can be used before bed - this will not affect the effectiveness.

Normaderm Total Mat

The cream actively affects enlarged pores and keeps the face matte for a long time. The texture is light, pleasant, perfect for a base for decorative makeup. Recommended for use on oily or combination skin. Due to the low concentration of salicylic acid, it can be applied daily.

Lactic acid

If epidermal cells rapidly lose moisture, it is recommended to use cosmetics with milk-based acid. The substance quickly restores the natural elasticity of the skin, normalizes the water-alkaline balance of dermal tissues, and deeply and intensively moisturizes the epidermis.

Can be used for pronounced pigmentation and abundant acne. The drug acts as a gentle peeling, cleansing the skin of dead particles of the dermis, dust, and dirt. Can be used at any age. The cream will be useful in the presence of fine wrinkles and premature aging.

The drug from the budget series will quickly get rid of pimples, blackheads, and acne. Can be used as a peeling - it does not cause skin irritation and gently cleanses of dirt, fat, and dead particles of the dermis. Recommended for dehydration of epidermal tissues - the cream will saturate them with moisture and retain it inside.

The cream moisturizes, cleanses, eliminates rashes and acne, and can be used for blackheads. A composition based on lactic acid will cleanse the skin and normalize the functioning of the sebaceous glands, which abundantly secrete oil. Can be used for pigmentation or red spots remaining after inflammatory processes.

Azelaic acid

Excessive rashes are a problem that women at any age often face. When caring for problematic skin, you need to use special products with active ingredients. When studying the components that make up the cream, you should definitely look for azelaic acid - a substance that can get rid of pimples, acne, and comedones. Another advantage of the product is the elimination of oily shine and cleansing of the dermis.

The drug is used in the presence of a profuse rash. In addition to eliminating rashes, the cream normalizes the functioning of the sebaceous glands, eliminates unhealthy complexions, and restores freshness. You can use it only 2-4 times a week, but for serious problems it is better to switch to daily use.

Used on dull skin with pronounced signs of aging. Normalizes oil secretion and completely eliminates dull shine. Can be used in the treatment of seborrhea, but only with the permission of a doctor. Hyperpigmentation is another problem that the cream can cope with.

Hyaluronic acid

Most creams for older ladies contain hyaluronic acid, which can restore youth and eliminate age-related problems. The substance penetrates the layers of the dermis and activates the process of collagen production, which is responsible for the condition of the skin.

The cream is usually used on very dry skin. Active elements penetrate into the deep layers of the dermis, saturate the tissues with moisture, and normalize collagen production. Regular use will help you get rid of wrinkles, sagging, correct the facial contour, and eliminate sagging.

The cream will help retain moisture in the epidermal cells, saturate the cells with everything they need, and keep the skin smooth and elastic. The drug prevents aging and can be used for preventive purposes. The general condition of the dermis will improve after the first applications.

Using an acid-based cream, you can expect excellent results, but you should not forget that everything should be in moderation. Abuse of the drug can cause unpleasant consequences, so it is better to strictly follow the care instructions and adhere to the manufacturer's requirements.