Rating of cosmetics by naturalness and effectiveness

There are two extreme points of view on the question of which ingredients are most preferable for use in the production of cosmetics.

First reflects a naturalistic approach, which can be briefly formulated as the following principle - "Nature has everything you need for the design and production of cosmetics.". Second includes adherents of chemicalization who adhere to the opposite principle - "Big (and small) chemistry in life! ".

According to some estimates, the first point of view is predominant among consumers of cosmetics both in Russia and abroad. This is evidenced by the results of surveys conducted by the Scientific Cosmetology Society in Russia, and the widespread dissemination of similar ideas in European countries - the so-called “green wave”.

Few adherents of the chemicalization of cosmetics, on the one hand, note the high stability of products of this kind (the possibility of long-term storage under normal conditions), and, on the other hand, justify their position by the fact that natural ingredients having sufficiently large molecular weights can cause allergic reactions.

There is also an intermediate option, according to which the advisability of using mainly natural ingredients with the simultaneous use of chemically synthesized additives is recognized. As a matter of fact, this is the option that most developers and manufacturers of cosmetics adhere to.

As arguments against the second extreme point of view, the following circumstances can be pointed out:

1. 1. Many chemically synthesized substances that are small in size (for example, formalin with a molecular weight of 30) are promoters of allergic reactions.
2. 2. Statistics show that the number of people prone to allergic manifestations is significantly increasing every year in the world. And this is in no way connected with an increase in the amount of natural products consumed. Quite the opposite.

The table below shows the rating of naturalness of products for various companies producing cosmetics and countries.

The rating is based on a comparison of the calculated values ​​of the average value of the chemicalization criterion (Kx av), determined for each company for all types of its products (at least three items). To rate the naturalness of cosmetic products by country, we limited ourselves to countries for which information was available for at least twenty types of products.

Criteria chemicalization each type of product represents the ratio of the amount of chemically synthesized ingredients, including natural ones that have nothing to do with the cellular systems of the skin (for example, mineral oils and petrochemical products), and the amount of natural ingredients present in the composition of the cosmetic product.

Table 1. — Rating of naturalness of products of cosmetic companies

About natural cosmetics

The concept "cosmetics“came to us from Greece, literally translated as “having experience in decorating.” For the first time the term "cosmetics"was used in 1867, during the international exhibition of perfumery and soap industry, which was held in Paris.

To date, cosmetics – these are products and methods for caring for skin, hair, nails, which are used to improve a person’s appearance, to give freshness and beauty to the face and body.

Now a large number of cosmetologists, in their work, use natural cosmeticswhich is made by hand. This matter, on the one hand, is quite simple, but on the other, it requires a careful approach and certain precautions.

Natural handmade cosmetics – the substance is very unstable, with a limited shelf life and certain storage conditions.

Specialists using natural cosmetics, prepare such products in small quantities, focusing exclusively on the personal client.

Most women who, for whatever reason, do not visit cosmetologists, are guided by the most advertised product when choosing cosmetics. Many people mistakenly believe that expensive cosmetics are necessarily of high quality. In this case, it should be remembered that the price of the product consists not so much of the funds spent on components and testing, but on marketing research and advertising.

Rating of naturalness of cosmetics

What cosmetics to choose? Rating of naturalness of cosmetics, produced by the most popular companies, was conducted by the independent non-profit Russian Scientific Cosmetology Society.

The rating was based on a study of at least three types of products from each brand. The tests took into account the following criteria:

1. chemicalization criterion Kx - its average value (from ∞ - completely chemical products to 0 - completely natural products),
2. generation number - reflects the presence or absence and chemical nature of preservatives:

2nd generation - chemically synthesized biocidal preservatives; 3rd generation - the presence of natural preservative systems; 4th generation - no preservatives.

First positions according to naturalness criteria occupied by the least promoted brands, Kx/generation number:

1. LN-Cosmetics, 0.00/4
2. Taiga source CJSC, 0.00/4
3. NL SIBPLANT LLC Recipes of Decina A.N., 0.00/4
4. Living Cosmetics of Siberia LLC, 0.00/4
5. Delphi, 0.00/4

Most popular brands cosmetic products and place in naturalness rating, Kx/generation number

Place in the naturalness ranking

Brand of cosmetic product

Cosmetics is the study of means and methods of improving a person’s appearance. Cosmetics are means and methods of caring for the body and oral cavity, used to improve a person’s appearance. This term was first used in 1867, during the International Exhibition in Paris, where the perfumery and soap industries exhibited their products separately from pharmaceuticals.

Each country has developed its own list of cosmetics, enshrined in the legislative framework. In Russia, this list includes essential oils. Modern cosmetics include formulations based on natural ingredients: Organic, Bio. In France, such products are called BIO, in Germany - NaTrue and BDIH, in the UK - Soil Association, in Russia - BioRus.

Brands are market leaders

The global market for cosmetics and personal care products is constantly growing. The leaders among manufacturers are transnational companies, which account for the majority of all products produced. The largest market for cosmetics is the American market, followed by Europe.

Recently, new and developing markets for cosmetics have become increasingly active. For example, the world's largest manufacturer L'Oreal already sells more than 40% of its products in the countries of the Old and New Worlds.

In 2018, the demand for natural products is actively growing. According to preliminary data, in 2019 it will account for more than $13.0 billion.

The main leading brands will include Estée Lauder, Nyx Cosmetics. According to Euromonitor International forecasts, the largest brands in 2019 will be skin care cosmetics. Asian markets, as before, will be the main driver of growth in the leather segment; by 2019, 80% of revenues in this area will come from the Asia-Pacific region and Southeast Asia.

China and Brazil are the most promising markets, with absolute growth expected to exceed $10 billion by 2019. Good results are expected in Indonesia and India, as well as the USA, Argentina, Iran, Mexico, Thailand and Turkey. According to the data, Russia accounts for 3% of the global turnover of goods from the segment under consideration.

The leaders of the Russian “branch” of the global industry continue to be famous brands represented by foreign manufacturers. The top three – Procter & Gamble, L’Oreal, Unilever Group – account for about 30% of the market. Avon remains the leader in the direct sales segment.

New brands in the segment

New brands in the segment are:

Birkenstock

The German shoe brand Birkenstock, which is over 240 years old, has developed a line of eco-cosmetics called Birkenstock Natural Care. The key component of the products is oak cork, from which the sole of the sandals is made. Cosmetic new products from Birkenstock Natural Care, in addition to suberin, known for its lifting effect, contain exotic eco-ingredients in their composition:

1. nourishing argan oil;
2. arctic moss;
3. baobab;
4. botanical hyaluronic acid;
5. elderberry extract, which helps fight free radicals.

The product collection is wide - up to 28 products that are designed to solve specific skin problems: skin, body and hair cleansing, moisturizing, anti-aging products, foot care or a men's care line.

Urban Decay

This is a famous makeup brand and the creator of Naked, as well as the Eyeshadow Primer Potion – Urban Decay. The brand produces two series: the first prepares the skin for applying makeup, and the second is intended for removing mascara and foundation.

Kanye West

Yeezy brand creator Kanye West is also launching a cosmetics line. The rapper is going to release decorative cosmetics, skin care products and fragrances under the new brand Donda. The brand is named after West's mother Donda, who died in 2007, and with whom he was close

The most popular cosmetics on the market in 2019

According to Google user searches, the most popular brand is Ulta Beauty, with BH Cosmetics and LipSense coming in second and third, respectively.

Ulta Beauty is the largest online and offline cosmetics store that has its own beauty brand. The company produces high-quality cosmetics.

Second place went to the BH Cosmetics brand, which mainly specializes in dry products: powders, shadows, correctors, bronzers, highlighters, blushes.

Third place - LipSense. This brand specializes in all kinds of lip products. The 2019 rating of the naturalness of cosmetics produced by the most famous companies was carried out by the Scientific Cosmetology Society of the Russian Federation. The study is based on at least three types of products from each brand. The tests took into account the following criteria:

1. chemicalization criterion Kx – its average value;
2. generation number - reflects the presence or absence and chemical nature of preservatives (second generation - chemically synthesized biocidal preservatives; third generation - the presence of natural preservative systems; fourth generation - absence of preservatives).

The first positions were occupied by the least promoted brands, Kx/generation number:

1. LN-Cosmetics, 0.00/4
2. Taiga source CJSC, 0.00/4
3. NL SIBPLANT LLC Recipes of Decina A.N., 0.00/4
4. Living Cosmetics of Siberia LLC, 0.00/4
5. Delphi, 0.00/4

The most popular brands of cosmetic products and place in the naturalness rating, Kx/generation number

Cosmetics rating 2019: top 5

According to surveys, the 2019 cosmetics rating includes the following 5 brands:

Natura Siberica

Its formulas are based on herbs from Siberian nature reserves. True, it is important to understand that certificates are issued not for the entire range of the brand, but for specific products. For example, it is worth paying attention to the decorative cosmetics of this brand; it is these products that have received Ecocert. And the real success of Natura Siberica is the Oblepikha Siberica Professional hair care line, based on the medicinal properties of Altai sea buckthorn.

SK Cosmetics

One of the less popular but interesting Russian brands specializing in natural ingredients is SK Cosmetics. In addition to face and body creams, the brand’s assortment includes a natural deodorant that can be stored for no more than 6 months in the refrigerator. The product contains beeswax, baking soda, starch, talc and extracts of chamomile, sage and green tea.

Botanika Life

A new Russian brand that appeared in 2001. The success story began with the production of natural essential oils. Currently, the brand is known for its full line of natural and organic shampoos, shower gels, handmade organic soaps created according to ancient recipes from the Ural Range, cane fragrances with natural essential oils and a large selection of household products.

Teana Laboratories

Combines three brands at once:

1. Teana, specializing in natural face and body care products.
2. Teana Angels, which produces organic cosmetics for babies.
3. “Natural element”, famous for its masks based on herbs and Arkhyz spring water.

Organic Shop

Own brand of the chain of stores of the same name, specializing in the sale of products from various organic brands. The product formulas are simple but effective. Organic Shop purchases most of its ingredients abroad. One of the brand's real hits is its line of body scrubs.

Tasha Beauty

The Russian brand, which uses foreign ingredients, actively cooperates with laboratories in Canada, Great Britain, France, Germany, Switzerland, Japan and Spain. The formulas are based on active natural ingredients. The face mask includes a herbal mixture for steaming, it contains green tea, lavender, calendula, nettle, and juniper berry extract.

Nikola-Lenivets

Organic cosmetics based on thyme, mint, oak bark, beeswax - everything is collected by hand in local fields and forests. The assortment is small but high quality:

1. shampoos and hair conditioners;
2. natural soap;
3. shower mousse;
4. lip balm.

Pure Love

Living cosmetics are produced in a professional laboratory using only organic certified ingredients from Russian, European and Japanese manufacturers. The shelf life of each product is no more than 6 months.

The well-known Google system conducted a survey among women and men, according to which they identified the 5 best cosmetics brands of 2019:

Ulta Beauty

Large American chain of cosmetics stores. Ulta Beauty has exclusive rights to sell the makeup line.

BH Cosmetics

The American brand BH Cosmetics is known around the world for its quality products. The best cosmetologists and luxury makeup artists work on the brand’s formulas.

LipSense

This line of lip makeup from SeneGence has gained a leading position among women. The product does not smudge or flow.

Charlotte Tilbury

Personal brand of makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury. Women appreciated high-quality lipsticks and body care products.

Milk Makeup

A young brand from New York has recently burst onto the world market. According to experts, product sales will increase significantly next year.