Retinoids for facial skin

They write all sorts of things about retinol and its derivatives on the Internet. However, it is obvious that when used in cosmetics, these substances benefit both those who suffer from acne and those who are concerned about age-related skin changes.

1. What are retinoids
2. Creams with retinoids: effect on the skin
3. Are cosmetics with retinoids dangerous?
4. Cosmetics review

What are retinoids

Retinoids are derivatives of retinol, that is, vitamin A, which, in turn, belongs to the group of fat-soluble substances. Synthetic retinoids are medicinal substances that are prohibited for use in cosmetics. Beauty formulas most often include some precursor forms that are absolutely safe.

Retinol esters: retinol acetate, retinol palmitate.

The concentration of retinol in homemade anti-aging creams is usually no more than 0.1%. In more serious medicinal drugs - from 0.4% to 1%.

Retinoids have proven themselves in anti-wrinkle and acne treatment products. © iStock

Creams with retinoids: effect on the skin

Retinoids normalize the renewal process of the epidermis and slow down the functioning of the sebaceous glands, preventing the proliferation of P. acnes bacteria, which cause acne. Cosmetic products and medications with retinoids are considered one of the most effective against acne because they:

stabilize sebum secretion;

accelerate the exfoliation process;

lighten acne marks.

Retinoids have also proven effective as an anti-aging component. By stimulating cell renewal, they reduce the area and number of wrinkles, and also trigger the synthesis of collagen and elastin, the production of which slows down with age.

Retinol creams are recommended for use at night. © iStock

Are cosmetics with retinoids dangerous?

When choosing a cream with retinoids, pay attention to some nuances.

Unpleasant sensations

Side effects of retinoids include dryness, burning, and flaking. Don't be alarmed, this is a normal skin reaction to accelerating renewal processes. The hydrolipid mantle of the skin is destroyed and needs to be restored. In this case, thick nourishing creams with oils will help.

The exception is oily skin, which is recommended to use moisturizers with nourishing ingredients that do not clog pores.

Increased photosensitivity

If you use cosmetics with retinoids, be sure to apply sunscreen before going outside. The rule applies not only to walking on the beach (in the summer, by the way, it is better not to use such means), but also to moving around the city. And failure to comply can result in the appearance of pigment spots.

Retinoids also have contraindications: skin hypersensitivity, pregnancy and breastfeeding, damaged lipid barrier or open wounds.

Cosmetics review

Night intensive lifting care Revitalift, L’Oréal Paris

The formula with proretinol and fibroelastyl stimulates the synthesis of elastin fibers, increasing skin elasticity. Vitamin A is responsible for cellular renewal, thereby lightening pigmentation (both age-related and post-acne) and smoothes wrinkles.

Concentrated anti-aging care with retinol Redermic R, La Roche-Posay

The composition contains two forms of retinol, so the product is twice as effective. The fluid is recommended for aging skin: it stimulates the synthesis of building proteins, lightens pigmentation, and corrects both facial and age-related deep wrinkles.

Reviews

Lina: “I ordered it for my mother, she was very pleased, we have already ordered a second tube. Considering that my mother is 65 years old, the effect is very noticeable - the skin has become fresher, looks more elastic, fine wrinkles actually become smaller.”

Anna Barkunova: “This is the best I've tried! This cream has a melting texture and is absorbed instantly. Good under makeup, doesn't stick. The eye cream from this series is also good, absorbed completely. Rating: 5.”

Ksenia: “Very pleased with the cream. I bought it for the first time and did not regret it. The cream is quite gentle and does not cause irritation if you use it moderately and listen to the skin's reaction. Although it is believed that retinol-containing preparations should be used for at least three months, I see results after just a month of use. The skin is smooth, facial wrinkles are noticeably smoothed out.”

Highly effective night care cream with retinol Retinol 0.3, SkinCeuticals

Contains the highest concentration of retinol presented in the selection - 0.3%. In addition, the composition includes extracts of alfalfa and chamomile, and soybean oil. The product is recommended for the treatment of inflammation, lightening age spots and correcting signs of aging at different stages. It should be applied before bed. During the first week - once every 3 days, then every other day.

Review

Natalya: “After going through a long process of acne treatment, I ended up with scarred skin, uneven complexion, dryness and the same hated pimples. After a week of using this cream, I realized that all the painful inflammation on my face had disappeared, only small pimples and old scars remained. Everything turns out to be so simple. It’s just a shame that the idea of ​​using this cream didn’t come to me earlier.”

Is it possible to minimize the unpleasant side effects that always accompany severe acne treatment, especially with drugs such as retinoids? Four real people under our supervision went to a dermatologist to treat long-standing skin problems - and we follow their successes.
Let me remind you of the essence of the project: four people with acne problems (three girls and a boy) became patients of dermatologist Olga Vladimirovna Sidorova to undergo a course of treatment with retinoids (Roaccutane, Acnecutane, etc.). To accompany this therapy at home and to relieve side effects, they use the new Ducray cream - Keracnyl PP.

The main “side effect” of taking retinoids in high dosages is extreme dryness of the skin and mucous membranes: the skin of the face and hands can peel off greatly, sometimes crack, lips and nose can even bleed. By the way, the scalp also suffers - it also becomes much drier. Gradually, all this returns to normal, but it can be difficult for patients to survive the first 6-8 weeks with such manifestations.

The new Ducray not only soothes the skin and improves its protective properties, removing dryness and dehydration for an average of 6 hours, it also contains myrtacin (fights P.Acne) and sabal extract (removes oily shine). Thus, the effectiveness of treatment increases.

Today we are talking about the successes of two more of our heroes (you can read about the first two here).

Rimma, 35 years old

November 2014: before treatment

Rimma, before falling into the hands of Olga Sidorova, had been treated by various other dermatologists several times. “But in general, it’s not systematic - sometimes Skinoren for a couple of weeks, then something else,” Olga said. — When Rimma came to me, even before this project, we started with plasma therapy - this is when blood is taken from a vein, plasma is released from it, and then the face is pierced with this plasma. During treatment, the improvement was significant, but as soon as we stopped the procedures, acne immediately worsened. This suggests that Rimma has a resistant form of acne, which is an indication for taking systemic retinoids.” Rimma started taking Roaccutane at the end of November.

December 2014: 1 month of treatment

By December, improvements were already noticeable, but for a significant difference in the condition of the skin it was necessary to gain a cumulative dose of the drug in the body, which is achieved on average in 3 months.

Like all participants in our project, Rimma used the Ducray Keracnyl line at home, including the new Keracnyl PP cream, which relieves dry skin.

“Rimma is a classic atopic, her skin is sensitive even without taking medications,” noted Olga Sidorova. “For her, quality home care during treatment was especially important to ensure her skin felt good.”

According to studies, Ducray Keracnyl PP is significantly more effective than other emollients in removing side effects from medications used in the treatment of acne - 94% of patients noted an improvement in skin condition. Rimma is among them.

February 2015: 3 months of treatment

“Now even if something jumps up, it goes away overnight,” Rimma rejoiced. — Dryness of the skin remained slight, more so in the evening. There are reddish peelings. I use Keracnyl PP cream in the morning and evening, and at night I also apply it additionally to these peelings - it helps a lot. By the way, makeup on top fits fine on it - I used foundation or concealer to cover up the problems. In general, it makes your skin feel so pleasant to the touch!”

The doctor plans to keep Rimma on low doses of the drug for a few more weeks, then reduce them further and then stop them completely. But first, Rimma’s nausea should go away - this side effect appeared a week ago, which means that she needs to get tested and adjust her treatment accordingly. “But by summer you’ll be a star, I promise!” - Olga laughs.

Yulia, 26 years old

November 2014: before treatment

Julia is the most difficult case of all. Yulia has been suffering from acne since she was 20, with moments of exacerbation and improvement, but it only became so severe last summer. At the same time, the girl had already given up by the time she got to the doctor. And she started treatment with Olga by accident - she came to her for a completely different, unrelated reason. But when Olga asked her about her face, she almost cried.

“There are no options here,” comments Olga Sidorova. “I didn’t even send her to basic therapy first. Yulia has a hereditary form of acne (her brother has the same form, only it also affects the back and chest). These are spherical acne, huge cysts. The so-called conglobate form is when cysts are actually cavities inside that are corroded by bacteria, there is pus and decay products. And imagine how much it all hurts! But the girl is so beautiful, but this is a disabling form that leaves behind hypotrophic scars. Therefore, retinoids so as not to waste time.”

December 2014: 1 month of treatment

The situation is improving slowly, but it is clear that the drug is starting to work. As expected, Yulia’s skin is dry and flaky. “I bled from the nose a couple of times, but I knew from the description that this was a possible side effect,” she said at the reception. “The mucous membrane becomes thinner, and the lips are easily injured, and there may be bleeding.”

“Patients tolerate retinoids worst of all during the winter period,” comments Olga Sidorova. — In summer, everything usually goes easier, the humidity is different, the air in the rooms is not so dry. In any case, adequate care at home is important.”

“I use the prescribed Ducray Keracnyl PP cream at home. All good. Moisturizes exactly as promised - for six hours. I apply it at 8 in the morning, and around three in the afternoon I start to experience dryness,” shared Yulia. — I save myself with thermal water until the evening, and at home I apply the cream again. Now there is almost no peeling.”

Keracnyl PP contains 0.2% myrtacin (a botanical antibacterial derived from myrtle) and 4% vitamin PP (helps soothe skin) - a proven dosage that helps prevent retinoid dermatitis in patients with mild to moderate acne. In Italy, an independent clinical study was conducted on patients using topical retinoids - this particular dosage showed to be much better than any moisturizer.

Keracnyl PP allows you to eliminate irritation, dryness, itching, increasing the tolerability of the entire treatment.

February 2015: 3 months of treatment

Yulia’s result after three months pleases Olga Sidorova: “There are only a few cysts left, the right side of the face has become much better. There are much fewer comedones. In December, every pore was still filled with comedones and sebaceous plugs. As for inflammatory elements, the situation has also become clearly better than before.”

The problem, of course, remains Yulia’s cysts. “They are very deep, centimeter-long, and are now gradually being brought to the surface. But the element on the right cheek has not gone away for more than two weeks, so today we will treat them locally. I’ll give Yulia antibiotics for quick wound healing - it will heal faster,” says the doctor.

Unlike other participants in this story, Yulia will have to take Roaccutane for at least four more months. “Some doctors treat patients on low doses and the course can take from 8 months to a year,” says Olga. — I prefer the maximum possible dosage, which shortens the period. In the case of Yulia, this is also necessary because her form of acne is very severe, treatment will take a lot of time, and with a low dosage she would have received the same side effects, but less results.”

In just a month, Yulia’s results will be much more noticeable, the doctor believes, and in three, that is, by summer, the situation will improve. “After retinoids, the dermis becomes so thin that no peelings or laser resurfacing can be done,” Olga reminds. - Even a cleanser with acids should not be used. It is important to exclude any irritants. But in a year, Yulia will be able to get a laser, since, unfortunately, she will still have post-inflammatory pigmentation - it will help smooth it out, the skin will be completely different.”

Katya, Valera and Rimma will complete their treatment without our supervision. But we decided to keep an eye on Yulia - we really hope that her struggle will be successful and we will be able to show you a photo of her with clear skin at the end of the Roaccutane course!

If you want to get an appointment with Olga Vladimirovna Sidorova, she can be seen at the clinic of the Ministry of Agriculture and at the First Doctor clinic.

Retinoids are preparations that contain ingredients that have the activity of vitamin A. Natural sources of this vitamin can be: eggs, dairy products, liver. There is also a lot of it in carrots, tomatoes, apricots, chicory roots, and rose hips. But there is no plant retinol a priori. It can be either a synthesized substance or of animal origin. Plants contain the vitamin carotene, which is provitamin A.

Retinols participate in metabolic processes and normalize the structure of the epidermis. Maintain normal skin condition by rejuvenating dermal cells. Nowadays, synthesized preparations containing retinol are widely used in dermatology. Doctors recommend them to get rid of acne and pigmentation (freckles and age-related). And also for rejuvenating the skin and reducing wrinkles. Retinoids can have an anti-inflammatory effect, anti-comedogenic, and also keratomodelling.

But it is worth remembering that uncontrolled use of such drugs can lead to skin irritation. In the article we will consider in which cases it is advisable to use one or another drug in order to avoid local skin irritation and at the same time achieve the desired results.

Principle of action on the skin

Thanks to the effects of retinoids on the skin, you can get rid of many problems because:

1. They act as a natural exfoliant, removing dead epidermal cells and clearing clogged pores, after which cell renewal begins. Small scars, wrinkles, pimples are eliminated during the action of the substance. You can choose a cream for scars and scars in this material. Additionally, clogged follicles can lead to keratoses. And the use of retinoids successfully solves this problem;
2. Under the influence of retinol, the resulting collagen smoothes out fine wrinkles and removes age spots;
3. Retinaldehyde, which is a cosmetic retinoid, has a good effect on acne and the skin regains its smooth structure and matte appearance.

Classification

There are three generations of retinoids that are used to combat skin rashes, acne, wrinkles, and pigmentation. The features of these groups will be discussed below.

First generation

This group includes the most effective anti-acne drugs: Retinol, as well as Tretinoin (vitamin A in the form of carboxylic acid), Isotretinoin (Roaccutane, Acnecutane). Tretinoin was the first topical retinoid to be used against acne, but the substance breaks down very quickly when exposed to sunlight. You can find acne cream here. Also, in some cases, it can cause skin irritation. Usually used in local therapy in the form of ointments or gel.

Second generation

The second generation represents Etretinate and its derivative Acitretin. These are synthetic derivatives of Retinoic acid. The drugs are close to Retinol, but they are not included in ointments or gels. They are taken orally in the form of tablets and capsules. Effective for psoriasis, lupus erythematosus, ichthyosis.

Third generation

After further structural changes in first-generation drugs, chemists obtained carotenoids (Tazarotene, Bexarotene). They do not contain retinoic acid, but retain the activity of retinoids. They are more often used to treat cancer, such as cutaneous lymphoma.

Features of the use of retinoids

Retinoids are used in combination with antibiotics for moderate acne. You can learn more about how acne is treated in teenagers here. That is, if several pimples appear on your face, you should not resort to medicinal products of this group, especially tablets and capsules. They have many side effects, including severe damage to the liver.

Ointments and gels dry out the skin and it begins to peel. Therefore, people with dry skin are contraindicated to use external products.

According to the method of application, retinoids are divided into systemic (tablets, capsules) and topical, that is, local. This group includes creams and gels.

Prescription of topical (local) retinoids

Local retinoid therapy is safer than systemic therapy. Drugs of this group are prescribed for the treatment of rosacea, acne, and photoaging of the skin. In case of illness, retinoids are combined with antibiotics to relieve inflammation.

Topical retinoids are divided into 2 types:

Natural

Retinol, retinaldehyde and others enter the body with food. There they rearrange their molecular chain into isomers of retinoic acid or retinol, which inherit the characteristics of vitamin A. And thanks to this, they effectively affect the skin, triggering various biological reactions. And this has a positive effect on the condition of the skin. In annotations for cosmetic products, you can often see that the preparations contain retinoids of natural origin, such as: tretinoin, retinyl palmitate, retinaldehydum.

They are included in the following drugs:

It is strictly forbidden for pregnant women to use the drugs, since even with a single use they can lead to severe pathologies of the fetus.

Synthetic

Synthetic retinoids are created artificially. And although their action does not differ from their natural analogues, the chemical formula is completely different.

The main difference is that synthetic substances can activate only some receptors in the skin. Such selectivity makes it possible to reduce the aggressiveness of the effect on the skin, as well as significantly reduce the likelihood of allergic reactions.

Synthetic retinols such as:

If the skin is sensitive, then doctors try to prescribe synthetic preparations, but for oily skin prone to rashes, preparations containing natural retinoids are better suited.

Prescription of systemic (oral) retinoids

If there is no improvement in the condition of the skin after treatment with local drugs of this group, then systemic drugs are prescribed. This usually occurs when skin diseases cover a large area. If monotherapy with retinoids is carried out, positive changes can be observed after 2-3 months. Systemic drugs include:

Indications for use

When no other drugs help, dermatologists prescribe retinoids in the following cases:

1. Acne, pimples. Moderate or severe form;
2. Prevention of photoaging of the skin;
3. Treatment of scaly lichen (psoriasis);
4. Blockage of the sebaceous glands and the formation of ulcers;
5. Alzheimer's disease;
6. Oncological diseases of the skin.

Retioids for acne

Acne, due to various subjective and objective reasons, can appear not only in teenagers, but also in older people. If the damage to the skin is moderate or severe, then Retinol, which has a gentler effect on the lesions than Retinoic acid, will help get rid of the pathology. Penetrating into the skin, it restores protein elastin and affects the skin’s production of its own collagen. Cleanses pores, relieves inflammation and regulates sebum production by glands. Acne products for teenagers in the pharmacy that contain Retinol.

Among the most proven drugs:

Retinoids for wrinkles

Retinoids, after regular use, reduce fine wrinkles by influencing the skin's production of its own collagen. You can find out what the most effective cream with collagen is by following the link. Thereby increasing its elasticity. In addition, by influencing the production of melanin, they prevent the appearance of various age spots and whiten those that have already appeared.

Among the effective drugs, the most popular among women are:

Tretinoin more effectively prevents the breakdown of collagen in the dermis, and retinaldehyde has a milder effect on the skin.

Retinoids against psoriasis

Psoriasis is a chronic, relapsing skin disease in which the dermis produces an excess number of cells, causing the formation of plaques covered with grayish-white scales that easily flake off the skin. Therefore, the task of treating pathology is to stop cell growth. This is exactly what retinoids can do, as they significantly reduce the rate of division and at the same time relieve inflammation of the skin in the affected area.

The most effective drug against psoriasis is Tarazotene.

In some cases, the use of the drug leads to dry skin, which is extremely undesirable for this disease.

Retinoids against warts

New growths in the form of warts are easily removed with various special creams, but when this cannot be done, dermatologists prescribe retinoids. External agents regulate keratinization, disrupt the growth of wart cells, and prevent their new appearance. If you start using drugs against warts, then you need to avoid exposure to direct sunlight, and cover the treated areas from their influence. Not all medications can treat flat warts. One of the most effective is considered to be Tazorac.

Anti-aging retinoids

When using a drug with retinoids, you can see results within a short period of time. The skin is evened out, becomes soft, smooth, bright. Retinol products can be purchased without a prescription, but it will take longer to see the expected results. If the composition of the drug indicates the presence of 0.1% Retinol for the skin and after using it for several months no results are visible, then you need to look for a product with a higher concentration of this element.

The most commonly recommended retinoids prescribed by dermatologists for skin rejuvenation are:

Retinoids for acne

Dermatologists provide monotherapy for acne, but most often in combination, using retinoids and antibacterial drugs. Usually these are ointments and gels. And this is preferable to systemic drugs with more pronounced side effects. You can choose a gel for acne on the face in the article.

Results of using products with retinoids:

1. Reducing sebum produced by sebum cells;
2. Normalization of the condition of the follicles;
3. Suppression of inflammatory processes;
4. Skin smoothing;

The drugs are used to treat moderate acne.

The following drugs have proven effective against pathology:

Contraindications to the use of retinoids (use during pregnancy)

It seems that drugs with the properties of vitamin A do not cause any harm to the body. But they have a number of serious contraindications:

1. Kidney and liver diseases;
2. Skin sensitivity;
3. Pregnancy and lactation. The use of retinols during this period is strictly unacceptable, as they will not only cause various fetal defects, but also negatively affect the growth and development of an already born baby.

You cannot self-prescribe drugs from this group, both locally and systemically. You should definitely consult a dermatologist for advice.

Side effects

Retinoid medications are quite effective against some skin diseases and aging. But at the same time, they can cause side effects. Such as:

1. Dryness and flaking of the skin, swelling, blistering when used externally;
2. Hypersensitivity to direct sunlight;
3. Shortness of breath, slight increase in temperature;
4. Hypertension;
5. Itching and burning of the skin;
6. Gastrointestinal tract. Vomiting, diarrhea;
7. Central nervous and cardiovascular system. Dizziness, arrhythmia, chest pain, weakness.

How to Increase the Effectiveness of Retinoids

To get the desired result, it is necessary not to forget about these simple rules during the use of drugs with retinoids:

1. Before using ointments, you need to cleanse the skin very thoroughly;
2. Do not be in direct sunlight;
3. You need to balance your diet. Avoid sweets, fatty foods, spicy foods, and starchy foods. The daily menu must include vegetables, fruits, fish, meat, chicken egg yolk, and liver. And also nuts, carrots, sprouted grains, spinach, red peppers, apricots. The daily human need for carotene is 5 mg per day, vitamin A from 1 to 2.5 mg.
4. Stay outdoors as often as possible. Preferably in the green zone of the city.
5. Avoid stressful situations

During the treatment period, it is necessary to use special gels for washing against inflammation and acne.

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Conclusion

Retinoids are chemical elements that are effective against skin diseases such as psoriasis and acne. They resist the appearance of wrinkles and eliminate existing ones. They successfully fight warts and phytoaging. But before you start treatment with retinoids you need to:

1. Plan the course in advance, and it will take at least 3 months. The use of drugs should be regular.
2. It is better not to start treatment in the summer. Retinoids dry out the skin, and the sun's rays can cause burns.
3. A pea-sized amount of cream is enough to treat the affected area. If after a few minutes the skin remains sticky, then the amount of product needs to be reduced.
4. Makeup products should not contain alcohol.
5. Be sure to use sunscreen before going outside in the summer.
6. It is better to use creams with retinols not in the morning, but in the evening.
7. You cannot prescribe such remedies for yourself. It is strictly forbidden to use them during pregnancy and lactation.