Remember the rule: the better you take care of your scalp, the thicker and more beautiful your hair will be. We give advice on proper care and recommend effective products.
- Why do you need scalp care?
- Proper care of the scalp and hair
- 5 rules for hair and scalp care
- Advice from a scalp care specialist
- Tools Overview
Why do you need scalp care?
The skin on the head is no less delicate and sensitive than on the face. And it needs no less care. Its absence will sooner or later affect the quality of the hair. What other factors affect the health of your scalp and hair?
Hair health depends on the condition of the scalp © IStock
Stress
“Stress, tension, emotional instability - all this not only injures our nervous system, but also disrupts tissue trophism, causing fibrosis around the hair follicles and hair loss,” explains Elena Eliseeva, medical expert at Vichy. “In addition, stressful situations provoke changes in the processes of sebum synthesis. All this does not have the best effect on the health of the scalp and hair.”
Unbalanced diet
Strict diets, unbalanced nutrition, poor drinking habits, as well as smoking and alcohol are not good for the scalp.
Deficiency of vitamins and microelements
Substances obtained by the body from food, as well as dietary supplements and vitamin complexes, reach the skin and hair last. Just be aware of this if you decide to neglect care, reassuring yourself with the phrase “well, I’m taking vitamins.”
Styling products
On the one hand, styling products are protection against the drying effects of thermal styling devices and the negative influence of the environment. On the other hand, they accumulate on the scalp and, mixing with particles of dirt and sebum, create problems for healthy hair growth. Regular exfoliation will help.
Weather
Cold winds and low temperatures in winter overcool the scalp, which leads to spasm of the surface capillaries, and therefore deprives the hair follicles of nutrition. This leads to a lack of vitamins and, as a result, problems such as:
In summer, the hair and scalp are exposed to ultraviolet radiation. It loosens the hair cuticle and the hair shaft becomes dry.
The scalp is sensitive to weather conditions © iStock
Diseases
“Hair is a marker of the body’s condition,” says Elena Eliseeva. — If they fall out, become dry and brittle for no apparent reason, visit a therapist. Malfunctions in the body’s functioning lead to deterioration of the hair structure, the sebaceous glands cease to perform their functions in full.” Possible reasons for this condition may be:
high fever for several days;
diseases of internal organs, often helminthiases or long-term inflammatory processes;
taking certain medications - immunomodulators disrupt the functioning of hair follicles, and powerful hormonal drugs sometimes provoke hair loss.
Proper care of the scalp and hair
The basic rules of care are regularity and properly selected cosmetics.
Wash your hair as your hair gets dirty. There are no rules like “wash every day” or, conversely, “every three days.”
Do not use water that is too hot or cold. The best option is 37–38°C.
Choose shampoo based on the condition of your hair, type of scalp, existing problems.
Use balm it covers the hair scales and makes combing easier.
Make a mask for hair 2-3 times a week.
Apply to ends leave-in products based on oils and silicones.
Choose shampoo according to your indications © iStock
Each of the listed products has its own mission.
Shampoo and peeling agent serve for gentle and deep cleansing.
Conditioner makes hair smooth.
The balm and mask are aimed at improving the health of hair and scalp.
Leave-in products enhance the effect of other care products, remove static electricity, and protect ends from the thermal effects of hair dryers, straighteners and curling irons.
5 rules for hair and scalp care
If the scalp is healthy, it does not require special care. It is enough to monitor your overall health:
adhere to healthy eating rules;
observe the drinking regime (drink clean still water at the rate of 30 ml per 1 kg of weight per day);
Avoid prolonged exposure to the sun or frost.
But for women living in a metropolis, such a case is very rare. Therefore, we recommend that you take our advice into account.
1. Hydration
One of the most common problems of the inhabitants of the concrete jungle is too dry scalp due to violations of the skin barrier functions.
Your actions: After cleansing your skin and hair, use leave-in lotions with a moisturizing effect - they will help restore pH balance. Look for amino acids, oils, and wheat proteins.
2. Exfoliation
Exfoliation is an extremely important and necessary procedure for those who cannot imagine their life without styling products. It is almost impossible to wash off their remains from the scalp, so it is recommended to exfoliate once or twice a month.
Your actions: use cleansing masks, shampoos, special deep cleansing products based on AHA acids. Apply the product to the skin, distribute with massaging movements. Massage will help improve blood circulation and have a beneficial effect on the condition of the hair follicles.
3. Night care
While we are resting, the scalp restores damaged cells and establishes all their life support systems.
Your actions: Before going to bed, apply a mask, special night care or oil to your hair and scalp.
4. Massage
Pleasant sensations are a bonus effect from scalp massage, the main objectives of which are:
help improve blood circulation;
improve nutrition of hair follicles.
Your actions: massage with your fingertips or a massage comb. Session time is 10–15 minutes.
5. Hair oil
Oils strengthen, moisturize, restore, and smooth hair. By creating an invisible film on the hair, they protect it from aggressive environmental influences. But the main thing is not to overdo it with this product - apply it in small quantities.
Apply oil to damp hair © iStock
Your actions: The oil is applied along the entire length of the hair without touching the scalp. If the hair is damp, the oil will nourish it and make it softer; if it is dry, it will add shine. Rub a couple of drops of oil in your palms and distribute along the length of your hair.
Advice from a scalp care specialist
Take care of your scalp regularly.
Cleanse your hair and scalp as they become dirty.
Wear a hat in winter and a hat or Panama hat in summer.
Exfoliate your scalp 1-2 times a month.
After washing your hair, use care products - masks, balms, conditioners.
Tools Overview
Soothing shampoo-care for dry hair Dercos, Vichy protects sensitive scalp from exposure to aggressive factors. The panthenol included in the composition moisturizes the hair and strengthens its structure, promotes better adhesion of the scales. Apply the product to damp hair, massage the scalp, and rinse with warm water.
Soft physiological shampoo-gel Kerium, La Roche-Posay Gently cleanses the scalp and restores its hydrolipid balance (subject to regular use). Suitable for frequent use.
Scrub for intensive cleansing of the scalp Deep Micro-Exfoliating Scalp Treatment, Kiehl’s apply before using shampoo. The product contains pure thermal plankton extract, rosemary oil and menthol. Apricot kernels and argan seed shells act as exfoliants.
Updated: April 29, 2019
At the beginning of the 21st century, scientists suggested that the demand for natural cosmetics would only grow. And now several years have passed, and their predictions turned out to be correct. Almost every family prefers to use natural cosmetics, as they are more beneficial for the skin and have the desired effect.
What are the best natural cosmetics?
Along with fashion came the trend of using natural skin care cosmetics. Such products are generally considered safe, since they do not lead to the development of diseases. They are also called eco or bio-cosmetics. The products that form the basis of such products are of natural origin, and no chemical or other additives are used in their processing.
On store shelves, such cosmetics stand separately from other products, and you can verify the naturalness of the composition by reading the information on the label. There is currently no specific definition biocosmetics. In different countries, such products have different meanings.
For example, in Germany, in natural personal care products cannot contain animal products. Also, they cannot contain substances that are obtained from genetically modified plants. To make the product last longer, use natural additives such as salicylic, ascorbic or benzoic acids.
In France, cosmetics must contain 95% ecological products. They also put forward a special requirement for the containers in which the products are sold.
In the USA they try to use 100% high-quality and proven ingredients. And if their percentage is less than 70, then they are not allowed to sell.
Benefits of products made from natural ingredients
People who use natural cosmetics are confident that they cannot be compared with synthetic drugs for a number of the following reasons:
- Comfort of use. The consumption when using natural products is not so high, since they are all highly concentrated.
- A significant advantage lies in the composition. The absence of animal ingredients, petroleum products and artificial colors indicates no impact on human health.
- It is easier to achieve better results with natural cosmetics.
- Application is safe for any skin, as it contains natural ingredients.
Types of natural cosmetics
Natural cosmetics contain only biologically pure components. It can be divided into the following types:
- Phyto-remedies. They consist entirely of natural ingredients. Currently, many of them also contain plant ingredients that are especially gentle on the skin. You can purchase separate tubes for caring for your face, hands, and hair. They are also divided by age categories. The only disadvantage of cosmetics is that they are not suitable for everyone, and many may experience a special reaction to essential oils and other elements in the composition.
- Animal-based or cellular cosmetics. The embryonic cells of humans and animals, which are part of such products, make cosmetics especially useful. With constant use, you can see positive changes in your appearance.
Manufacturers of harmless skin care products
The most popular brands include the following:
- Organic Pharmacy. This brand is dedicated to beauty and health. It contains only organic components. The British Pharmaceutical Society is responsible for its quality.
- Ren. The pure ingredients in these products help keep your skin healthy and glowing. All of them are clinically approved because they do not contain synthetic, harmful additives.
- Nude. It does not contain chemicals, sulfates, parabens and propylene glycol. Organic ingredients will help maintain health and provide your skin with a beautiful appearance.
- Bare Escentuals. A mineral cosmetics brand that aims to improve the skin and make it perfect. The products do not cause irritation.
- Juice Beauty. This brand has gained success all over the world. The masks and creams she produces preserve the structure of hair and skin.
- Stella McCartneu CARE. The fashion designer keeps up with the times, so she presents high-quality cosmetics that care for skin and hair. The creator worked to ensure that not a single woman misses the opportunity to become more beautiful without makeup and styling.
- Dr. Hauschka. A popular German manufacturer that creates cosmetics based on medicinal herbs. Everything that a modern person might need is produced here - from shampoo to cuticle product.
- Korres. Greek-made products have spread throughout the world. People who cannot cope with unruly hair will certainly appreciate such natural remedies.
- Light Organic. This American brand uses vitamin E, jojoba, rosemary and carrots, and all creams are created by hand.
- Patyka. This brand creates especially high-quality eco-products. In particular, it is worth noting the perfume, which contains organic wheat alcohol and only natural essences, the aroma of which is revealed throughout the day.
- Organic Apoteke. This brand created the first perfume without fragrances and alcohol.
- Ojon. The company produces personal care products. They care about the beauty and health of skin and hair. The main element is walnut oil, which was used by the Indians. Shampoos, conditioners, masks, sprays and creams are made from it.
- Jamu. The cosmetics contain exotic ingredients. The emphasis here is on fruity and herbal notes and the smell of spices. Products of this brand are suitable for SPA procedures.
- H.I.P. Organic cosmetics are famous for the fact that they can be used internally. This company is obsessed with the concept of global beauty, so it sells hair and body care products based on essential oils, plant extracts and vitamins.
5 best cosmetic brands
The ranking of the best cosmetic brands can be presented as follows:
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To care for hair and scalp, there are cleansing products, cosmetic preparations for hair care after washing, hair fixation products, photoprotective products, etc.
Shampoos are most often used to cleanse the scalp; soaps are less commonly used for this purpose. In most cases, they are used to achieve a therapeutic effect. Thus, some soaps are prescribed for skin and hair care for seborrhea, seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, and ichthyosis. The existing forms of powder (powder), cream, aerosol and oil for cleansing hair have not gained wide popularity.
The shampoo contains water, detergent (surfactant, surfactant) and various fattening additives. Soaps of various origins, as well as synthetic compounds, are used as detergents. The detergent composition of the shampoo creates a certain environment on the surface of the skin. Anionic detergents create an alkaline environment (pH 8-12), nonionic detergents create a slightly acidic environment (pH 5.5-6). They also produce pH-neutral shampoos (pH 7), the acidity of which is due simultaneously to two types of detergents included in their composition (soap and si). It has been shown that cationic detergents have the greatest irritating effect; anionic ones have this effect to a lesser extent. Non-ionic detergents are characterized by minimal irritating effects.
Most modern shampoos contain conditioners (two-in-one formula). Some cosmetic companies use various components of different effects in the manufacture of shampoos. Thus, recently shampoos have become widespread, containing dyes of natural origin (chamomile, henna, basma, etc.) to give the hair a certain shade. Shampoos containing ceramides, tyrosine derivatives that inhibit the appearance of gray hair, as well as azulene derivatives to eliminate the yellowness of gray hair have appeared on the market.
For therapeutic purposes, various drugs may be included: antifungals (ketoconazole, zinc pyrithioneate, tar, sulfur, selenium disulfide and disulfate), pediculocides (pyrethrin, piperonyl, phenothrin, tetramethrin, etc.), salicylic acid and lipohydroxy acid, drugs that enhance blood supply to hair follicles (minoxidil 2.5-5%, aminexil 1.5%). In addition, some vegetable oils are used (coconut, cypress, rosemary, tea and cajuput trees, etc.).
Cosmetic preparations for hair care after washing are used to restore shine to hair, facilitate combing and styling, strengthen thin, weak hair and increase its elasticity, remove static electricity, etc. According to the classification proposed by the French Federation of the Cosmetic Industry, cosmetic preparations for hair care hair after washing are divided into washable (rinse aids) and indelible.
Rinse-off hair care products after washing are represented by all types of rinses or conditioners, starting with liquid milk, rinsing balms, hair combing creams of various consistencies, ending with liquid gels. The listed forms usually include a base (fats, alcohols, ethers, waxes), a thickener (necessary to stabilize the emulsion form, a hydrophilic colloid is often used), and preservatives. Cationic detergents and silicones are used as conditioning additives. Various medicinal and sun protection agents may also be included. Leave-in products are represented by various solutions (lotion, and so-called serums), foams, conditioning creams.
The selection of shampoo, as well as cosmetic preparations for caring for the hair itself after washing, is based on determining the type of hair (dry, oily, etc. For dry hair, the composition of these forms includes: organic acids (acetic, lactic, malic), fats and fat-like substances ( lanolin, beeswax, spermaceti, jojoba oil, etc.), fatty acids (oleic, stearic, linoleic, linolenic, ricinolenic, etc.) and their derivatives (natural triglycerides - almond, castor, peanut, olive, oat oil, avocado oil , fatty alcohols - lauryl, myristyl, oleyl, cetyl and stearyl alcohols, fatty esters, etc.), various vitamins (A, group B, E), protein derivatives (protein hydrolysis, a mixture of peptides, amino acids), phospholipids, cationic detergents, cationic polymers. It should be emphasized that cationic derivatives are surfactants with a hydrophilic cationic group having one or two lipophilic hydrocarbon fatty chains. When a cationic detergent hits the surface of damaged hair, which carries an anionic valency, an electrochemical bond occurs between the negatively charged hair and the cationic substance , which promotes the formation of a thin monomolecular film on the surface of the hair. In addition, when the hair is exposed to the specified detergent, an antistatic effect occurs due to a decrease in the potential difference. It is known that cationic detergents (surfactants) are ideal for normalizing the surface of damaged hair and protecting it. However, they have no effect on improving the structure of damaged hair. Moreover, the use of these components is not always convenient due to the irritating effect and incompatibility with a number of anionic detergents included in shampoos. That is why new compounds compatible with anionic detergents have been developed - cationic polymers, which are capable of creating a special protective film on the surface of the hair, restoring its structure and strength. The first cationic polymer to hit the market in 1972 was Polymer JR (Poly quaternium 10). It was added to one of the shampoos as a conditioning ingredient. Subsequently, many new varieties of cationic polymers were released and patented. Currently, three main types are used: cationic celluloses and starches, cationic silicones, and protein hydrolysates.
The main components of cosmetic preparations for the care of oily hair are sulfur and its derivatives (disulfite, selenium disulfate, etc.), amino acids containing sulfur (cysteine, methionine), thioesters, tars, some substances that delay the entry of sebum into the hair, as well as fat adsorbents. To reduce the entry and spread of sebum on the surface of the hair, in recent years they have begun to use special lipophobic films covering the hair. They are added in small concentrations to shampoos for oily hair. The most popular are various acrylic derivatives and phosphorylated fatty acids, which have both lipophobic and hydrophobic effects. To achieve an adsorbing effect, gelatin or casein, as well as finely dispersed starches and silicones, are usually used. They not only absorb sebum, but also make it thicker, which reduces the visible manifestations of liquid seborrhea. The negative quality of these drugs is that after using them, the hair looks dull.
Currently, in addition to traditional shampoos, various solutions and gels are offered that are applied directly to the hair roots. They are used for excessive greasiness of hair. These include alcohol solutions (40-50%) for daily use, lotions (solutions) used after washing with a low alcohol content, hydrogels containing alcohols, emulsions for treating hair after washing. These agents may include hydrocolloids, clays, plant extracts, proteins, and nonionic polymers that act as adsorbents. Typically, a small amount of detergent (surfactant) is added to their composition as an emulsifier and to facilitate rinsing with water.
In order to fix hair in a hairstyle, aerosol, foam, gel, and solutions are used. Previously, the means for fixing hair were various gels of natural origin containing tragacanth and other ingredients, as well as various oils.
Currently, various synthetic polymers (for example, polyvinylpyrrolidone) are added to give shape to the hairstyle without polluting the hair, as well as ingredients that have a conditioning, antistatic effect (for example, cationic detergents). Various hair styling foams are considered the least aggressive; sprays are the most aggressive. In addition, sprays are becoming less popular nowadays due to the danger of damaging the ozone layer of the atmosphere.
Permanent wave was invented more than 70 years ago in order to change the shape of hair (make it wavy), which will remain after washing. The technology and means used for this type of perm are constantly being modified. Regardless of the technique, the process usually involves three steps.
- Softening of hair under the influence of physical or chemical factors. The so-called “steam” perm is historically the oldest. The essence of the process is the destruction of hydrogen bonds between polypeptides in hair keratin molecules, which creates a temporary effect of changing shape, achieved by using curlers. Also outdated is the method in which an ammonia solution and sodium bisulfite or triethanolamine were used in combination with exposure to high temperature (the so-called “hot” perm). Previously, curling methods were also popular, the essence of which was reduced to an isoteric chemical reaction. These methods are now practically not used, since they significantly damage the hair and require special preparation. Since 1945, “cold” perm began to be widely used. The process of softening hair during cold curling is ensured by thioglycolates, which are capable of destroying disulfide bonds in the keratin molecule. Currently, solutions containing thioglycolic acid and ammonium or monoethanolamine are used. In recent years, curling based on glyceryl monothioglycolate has gained popularity, which has proven to be gentler and can be recommended for people with dry and bleached hair. It should be emphasized that thioglycolates are quite strong sensitizers. They are the most common cause of allergic dermatitis in both hairdressers and clients.
- Giving hair a new shape. Achieved using curlers of various diameters. Subsequently, the hair is treated with a neutralizing solution, which fixes the new shape.
- Fixing the shape of the hair is usually done with the help of hydrogen peroxide, which also has an aggressive effect on the hair.
Perm kits for home use usually include milder neutralizing solutions of the following salts: sodium tetraborate, sodium tetracarbonate, sodium bromate, potassium bromate, etc.
People of the Negroid race often use various means and methods to straighten their hair. Their essence is basically similar to perm. Men with short hair also use viscous fat bases (pomade) to mechanically straighten their hair and glue it together.
Currently, new forms for cosmetic hair care are being created. One of them is a moisturizing cream for dry and brittle hair, applied to the entire length of the hair. Such creams often contain silicones, which envelop the hair, promote the adhesion of scales to it and thereby restore shine. To protect hair from ultraviolet rays, both UVB and UVA protectors are used. To protect hair from the effects of cold water in a pool containing chlorine, special oils are used. The oils contain silicone, which envelops the hair. Some companies produce such drugs in aerosol form.
[1], [2], [3], [4]