Does collagen penetrate the skin?

When it comes to anti-aging cosmetics, it is easy to succumb to information manipulation and thoughtlessly waste money on useless jars. Labels are full of pseudoscientific information about the miraculous effect of anti-aging ingredients. We'll figure out what works and what doesn't. Let's start with collagen.

What is collagen?

Collagen, like any animal protein, consists of chains of amino acids (more than a thousand). The basis is proline and hydroxyproline.

Collagen synthesis is a complex process, but simplified it looks like this:

1. three amino acid chains are twisted into a rope (tropollagen); a network (fibrils) is formed from the rope, which maintains its shape.

As the body ages, the mesh wears out, stretches, ropes break, volumes are lost, as a result the face “creeps” and wrinkles appear.

The beauty industry has done a great job convincing consumers of the anti-aging benefits of collagen. But not everyone understands exactly how it works and whether it works in principle.

There are more than 29 types of collagen in the body. In one form or another, it is part of muscles, bones, cartilage and, naturally, skin.

The following types are important for the skin.

1. Collagen I: The main form of collagen in the human body. Collagen III: Found in rapidly growing tissue, especially in the early stages of wound healing. Over time, it transforms into the first type. Collagen V and VI: Similar in structure to type I. Collagen VII: Critical to skin integrity, even though it is present in very small quantities. Acts as an anchor between the layers of the dermal-epidermal junction (about 0.001% of total collagens).

Forms

Is it good for the skin?

The benefits of collagen as an anti-aging agent directly depend on the route of entry into the body:

1. external use (ointments, creams, etc.), per os or by mouth with food or supplements, by injection.

Answers to three questions will help you analyze the effectiveness of each of these methods:

1. mechanism of action, the ability to penetrate the dermis, bypassing the upper layer of the epidermis, the presence of reliable clinical trials.

Natural

Collagen is known to actually improve the condition of the skin, making it firm, hydrated and youthful.

But here’s the catch - the collagen contained in the cream cannot penetrate into the deep layers of the dermis.

At the end of the last century, with the help of a scientific experiment, they tried to find out whether diffusion was possible. The experiment was carried out on mice. They never received a clear answer, but scientists suggested that the molecule does not penetrate inside the cell due to its large size.

In addition, the likelihood of integration of internal collagen with that introduced by rubbing is negligible.

There are no scientifically based studies on this matter. Yes, collagen-based creams do create a feeling of fullness, but the phenomenon is temporary.

Despite the uselessness of such jars, collagen-based products can still be found on store shelves.

Injectable

This form has been well studied. Made from beef leather.

Recently, human collagen has been used to produce an injectable form - it is considered hypoallergenic.

Both types are used to fill wrinkles.

Collagen is injected directly into the dermal layer, hence penetration is present.

Everything is known here too. The results are immediate and last from three to six months. After time, collagen dissolves and the face returns to its original state. The downside is that it’s expensive and doesn’t last forever.

Food

Sold as supplements. According to the manufacturer, the full course helps improve skin condition. The attitude is skeptical, but we will still answer our three questions.

It turns out that there are experiments in this direction with positive dynamics. The experiment was carried out on humans and in vitro.

In the first case, the test group took the supplements orally for a certain period of time. Analyzes showed the presence of di- and tripeptides (tiny parts of collagen broken down in the stomach) in the blood serum after consuming the tablets.

An in vitro (test tube) study has proven that the peptides stimulate fibroblasts to multiply and help increase the synthesis of hyaluronic acid.

Yes, it penetrates, since the blood carries fragments of digested collagen throughout the body.

Available. Experiments were carried out more than once

Thus, 26 women participated in one of the experiments. For six weeks, they took one gram of hydrolyzed collagen daily, in addition to which the dietary supplement also contained hyaluronic acid and hodroitin sulfate.

After time, the result was assessed using the following indicators:

1. dryness and flaking of the skin, severity of wrinkles.

All participants showed improvement in their skin.

The experiment can hardly be called pure, since collagen was taken in combination with other ingredients.

Another study involved 69 people:

1. part received 2.5 g of destroyed collagen, the second - 5 g, and the third group took a pacifier orally.

At the end of the experiment, the condition of the skin was taken into account, namely:

1. elasticity, moisture, roughness.

The results are encouraging - women in the first two groups experienced significant changes in their skin for the better.

It is unlikely that these studies prove that eating collagen is beneficial for the skin, but the positive dynamics cannot be ignored.

Collagen is currently one of the most popular ingredients found in many cosmetic products. Everyone knows that this skin protein is directly responsible for its elasticity, smoothness and youthful, toned appearance. Patients are convinced that using a miracle cream with collagen will help smooth out wrinkles, tighten the skin and produce a pronounced anti-age effect after just a few applications, but is this really so? Experts must know the answer to this question, and therefore estet-portal.com has prepared reliable information about the functions of collagen in cosmetics.

How does collagen work in cosmetics?

In human skin, collagen is continuously synthesized by fibroblasts, the activity of which decreases significantly with age. This is due to the hormonal background of the body, because fibroblasts are estrogen-dependent cells, and a decrease in estrogen in the body leads to a corresponding decrease in collagen production.

The fewer collagen fibers in the skin, the more its correct structure is disrupted, its layers droop, and facial wrinkles appear.

For patients who have this information, products containing collagen seem to be a magic potion that will instantly correct all skin imperfections. But collagen in cosmetics does not work exactly according to this principle.

Collagen in cosmetics:

1. is collagen in cosmetics capable of penetrating into the layers of the skin;
2. what forms of collagen can be used in cosmetics;
3. Why is collagen added to cosmetics?

Is collagen in cosmetics able to penetrate the layers of the skin?

The most important question on which the effectiveness of cosmetic products with collagen depends is whether it is able to penetrate the skin? In order for collagen molecules to penetrate the dermis when applied externally, they need to overcome the epidermal barrier, consisting of insoluble keratin scales glued together by a fatty layer. Only a fat-soluble substance with a small molecule can pass through the barrier. Water-soluble substances can penetrate the epidermal barrier in small quantities and under certain conditions. Collagen does not dissolve in fats or water, and has a large molecule, so collagen in cosmetics lies as a film on the surface of the skin and cannot penetrate inside it.

What forms of collagen can be used in cosmetics?

Since the collagen molecule cannot penetrate into the deep layers of the skin on its own, it is necessary to ensure its effective transportation. This can be done in two ways: changing the collagen or the method of delivering the molecule. Two other forms of collagen in cosmetics can penetrate the skin:

1. Soluble collagen is collagen whose fiber formation process has been interrupted before it is completely finished. Such collagen can penetrate the skin and is able to retain moisture very well, but it is not full-fledged collagen and does not perform all its functions;
2. hydrolyzed collagen is collagen broken down into individual amino acids and peptides, which penetrates well into the skin, but also does not have the properties of native (adult) collagen, and does not stimulate fibroblasts to synthesize natural collagen fibers.

The most effective use of collagen in cosmetics is its introduction into the dermis by injection in fillers, due to which wrinkles are filled with collagen from the inside.

The use of collagen in the form of fillers can really have a good anti-age effect.

Why is collagen added to cosmetics?

But despite the fact that, in most cases, collagen in cosmetics is not able to penetrate the dermis, its use in cosmetics is absolutely justified, since collagen has many beneficial effects:

1. moisturizing – collagen is able to attract large amounts of water, and due to the film it forms on the surface of the skin, moisture is retained in its layers;
2. lifting – when dry, the collagen film on the surface of the skin contracts, providing a skin tightening effect;
3. regeneration – collagen promotes effective and rapid healing of wounds;
4. prolongation of the effect of other substances – collagen prolongs the effect of oils and extracts, allowing you to use less of them;
5. hair care – collagen is able to glue hair scales together, create an airtight film on its surface and add shine to hair.

Thus, the use of collagen in cosmetics is an effective method of skin care, despite the fact that the collagen molecule itself is not capable of penetrating into the deep layers of the skin.

Collagen is one of the most widely used ingredients in our beauty jars. It is especially popular in anti-age cosmetics.

Many are convinced that if you use a cream with collagen, wrinkles will miraculously smooth out, the skin will become elastic and youthful, and in general, aging no longer seems to be a threat. But before we “believe everything they say,” let’s dig a little deeper and figure out how collagen actually works in cosmetics, what it can and can’t do.

In this post we will talk about what collagen is, what it is like and how it changes with age, why it is added to cosmetics, and how it affects the skin.

What is collagen

In a series of posts about the structure of the skin, we described in detail that its middle layer (dermis) is similar to a water-spring mattress, the “springs” of which are protein fibers collagen and elastin. Moreover, 80% of the dermis consists of collagen fibers.

In addition to the dermis, collagen is found in muscles, organs, blood vessels, cartilage, tendons, ligaments, bones, hair and nails.

Functions

Provides skin strength.

Structure

The collagen molecule consists of 19 amino acids. Amino acids, like beads, are connected into chains. These chains are closely interconnected and form 3 threads. And the threads, twisting like twine, form a spiral, similar to a spring.

It is this structure that gives collagen fibers special strength and tensile strength.

The fiber is only 1 mm thick and can withstand a load of up to 10 kg.

Collagen fibers in the skin form a “mesh”. Unlike elastin, the collagen mesh does not stretch, but can bend.

Collagen family

Which of the 19 amino acids “took hold of the hands” and how they formed the chain determines what type of collagen the collagen will be. There are 28 types in total. Types I and III are mainly present in the skin.

1. Type I The most important one makes up 85% of all collagen in the skin. The most durable and elastic when stretched.

1 g of type I collagen is stronger than 1 g of steel.

1. III type. Most of all in young and children's skin. It is also thanks to this collagen that young skin is so tender and soft. There is a lot of it in healing wounds in the first stages, and is gradually replaced by type I. If you do not allow the wound to heal normally, for example, by squeezing acne (our favorite pastime) and thereby maintaining the inflammatory process, the synthesis of type III collagen will continue longer than expected and can lead to noticeable scars that will remain even after the skin has completely healed.

Collagen and age

Collagen in the skin is continuously synthesized by fibroblast cells. With age, their activity decreases significantly, which means the amount of collagen in the skin becomes less.

Fibroblast cells are captive and dependent on hormones. The older we get, the less estrogen is produced in the body. Less estrogen means less collagen production.

When collagen fibers become smaller, they are no longer sufficient to maintain the correct structure of the skin.

The work of fibroblasts gradually slows down - by about 1% every year from the age of 20. And after 40 this process accelerates.

In addition, as we age, collagen fibers lose their elasticity and become thicker and coarser. They clump, “holes” form, and an even, strong “mesh” does not work out. The “mesh” becomes distorted, the skin “breaks” and - hello, wrinkles. ☹

To top it off (as if we didn’t already have enough), in addition to synthesis, the skin is always in the process of collagen destruction. This way the skin is constantly renewed. However, with age, the destruction process gains momentum. Collagen is destroyed under the influence of certain enzymes (collagenases). Enzymes break down collagen fibers into small fragments, disrupting their structure. The skin bends, sags and - the result is still the same - wrinkles appear. ☹

What else destroys collagen?

In addition to age, collagen fibers have other enemies.

UV radiation enhances the action of enzymes and accelerates the process of destruction of collagen fibers, causes premature aging and reduces the skin's ability to regenerate itself. In skin that is severely damaged by the sun, collagen fibers are thick and “dismembered” into pieces. These collagen “stubs” themselves interfere with the synthesis of new collagen. This is why it is so important not to neglect creams with SPF (regardless of age).

Tobacco contains chemicals that destroy collagen and elastin. Nicotine constricts blood vessels and impairs microcirculation.

Sugar enhances the process of glycation (gluing collagen fibers with glucose) and makes collagen fibers dry, weak and brittle.

They damage fibers at the molecular level, destroying and altering DNA.

Collagen in cosmetics

We figured out what collagen does in our skin. Now let's figure out what it does in our cosmetics.

Collagen in our cosmetic friends can come in a variety of “shapes and colors.”

1. Animal. The most accessible and cheapest. It is obtained from the skin of animals (cows, sheep, piglets). It has a very large molecule.
2. Nautical. Expensive. Obtained from the skin and swim bladder of fish. Very capricious in production, transportation and storage. Less stable than animal (breaks down at lower temperatures). Very allergic. Closest to human collagen. The molecule is smaller than that of an animal.

Unfortunately, the label and composition of the product often does not indicate which collagen is used - animal or marine.

Important! Often in the description of the product you can find such a thing as “plant collagen”. Collagen is a protein of animal origin and only animal protein. Plants do not have protein, so “plant collagen” does not exist in nature and cannot exist. What is called “plant collagen in cosmetics” is just individual amino acids (for example, hydrolyzed wheat protein). They moisturize well, but do not have the properties of collagen.

By the way, “synthetic collagen” does not exist either.

Collagen can be included in creams, gels, cream-gels and masks. Or maybe in the form of dried layers (sheets) and patches (“bobbins”) under the eyes. The sheets and beans are typically 100% collagen and contain no additives.

Does collagen penetrate the skin?

The most important question that worries everyone is whether collagen from cosmetic products can penetrate the dermis and strengthen our “spring mattress”? Let's figure it out.

To penetrate the skin, collagen needs to overcome the epidermal barrier. It consists of insoluble keratin scales of the stratum corneum, held together by a fatty layer.

Only a fat-soluble substance with a tiny molecule can break through this strong barrier. A water-soluble substance can overcome the barrier only in small quantities and under certain conditions.

And collagen is not only insoluble in fats or water, and also has a huge molecule. Depending on the species (animal, marine), the dimensions may vary, but the molecule is still too large to squeeze through anywhere.

Conclusion - collagen in cosmetic products (creams, serums, masks) lies as a film on the surface of the skin and does not penetrate inside.

Collagen injections

Since cosmetic collagen cannot penetrate into the skin on its own, the only way out is to deliver it artificially using fillers. They are introduced into the dermis through injections and, as it were, fill wrinkles from the inside.

But injections are not a “magic pill”; in order for the results to last, they must be done constantly, about once every six months. The option is expensive and not suitable for everyone.

In fillers, as a rule, animal collagen is used as it is less allergic; however, allergy tests must be carried out for a month before the course. There are also fillers that use human collagen, grown in a laboratory and does not cause allergic reactions (CosmoDerm ® and CosmoPlast ®).

Hydrolyzed, soluble and native collagen

What about hydrolyzed collagen, you ask? And there is also a soluble one - it definitely penetrates the skin! What about native? What kind of animal is this? Let's sort it out in order.

Native collagen

The process of formation (maturation) of collagen fiber is long and complex. Fully formed and structured “adult” collagen is called native. That is, this is exactly the collagen that we simply call collagen. He complete, identical to skin collagen, but nevertheless does not penetrate inside.

Soluble collagen

Soluble collagen is collagen that has not been allowed to “grow.” That is, the process of collagen fiber formation was interrupted before it was fully formed and became native. As a rule, it is obtained from the skin of younger animals.

Soluble collagen, unlike native collagen, can penetrate the skin. It retains water very well, so it moisturizes even more effectively than native collagen. However this not full-fledged collagen, but its “stubs” and the functions of full-fledged collagen it does not perform.

Hydrolyzed collagen

Under normal conditions, collagen is a very strong and stable protein. It does not dissolve in water or fat. Collagen dissolves as a result of hydrolysis (boiling with water, salts, alkalis) and treatment with reactive oxygen species and enzymes. As a result, collagen breaks down into individual amino acids. Today, enzymes are usually used to obtain collagen hydrolysate.

That is hydrolyzed collagen is individual amino acids and their chains (peptides). Yes, they really are capable of penetrating the skin. However, it is important to understand that these individual amino acids are:

1. are not full-fledged collagen;
2. do not possess its properties;
3. do not stimulate fibroblasts to synthesize their own collagen.

Gelatin is also hydrolyzed collagen. Gelatin is obtained through the process of partial hydrolysis, and if the process is continued, we will obtain the same “hydrolysates” that are used in cosmetics. To obtain gelatin, long-term treatment with alkalis is required, for hydrolysates - with enzymes. Gelatin hardens quickly to form a jelly. Hydrolysates form gels and gel solutions.

Does cosmetic collagen replace natural skin collagen?

Firstly, cosmetic collagen cannot integrate into the natural “collagen network”. Collagen from external products will not penetrate the skin at all. Fillers - yes - will get into the dermis, fill the gaps in the “collagen network” and the skin will look smoother, fresher and younger. But nothing more. Moreover, the skin will be smoothed due to intense hydration from the inside, and not because cosmetic collagen will “weave” into natural collagen fibers and begin to “repair” the damaged mesh. He cannot do this. To date, there is not a single scientific study confirming the opposite.

Secondly, cosmetic collagen cannot stimulate the synthesis of natural collagen. We “hope and believe” that collagen from cosmetic products can influence fibroblasts - the cells that synthesize the skin's own collagen. With cosmetic collagen we want to imitate natural processes and stimulate them. However, sadly, this is impossible.

Collagen from the outside cannot in any way affect the natural processes in the skin, stimulate the work of fibroblasts and the synthesis of new collagen.

Our body can only use the collagen that is produced by our cells inside the body - this is “living collagen”, which provides strength and structure to the skin and can actually somehow influence the formation of wrinkles. Any other collagen obtained from animal or human sources is completely useless in this regard.

Conclusion - cosmetic collagen does not replace the natural collagen of the skin.

Unfortunately, cosmetics manufacturers (unlike drug manufacturers) are not legally required to conduct scientific research to confirm the declared effectiveness of their products.

Why is collagen added to cosmetics?

Why then add collagen to cosmetics at all if it doesn’t penetrate anywhere, you ask? Yes, the collagen from your jar of cream cannot get into the dermis and “turn back the clock” for your skin. However, it has many other extremely pleasant properties that should not be neglected.

Collagen is extremely hygroscopic. That is, it can attract and hold huge amounts of water (up to 30 times its own weight). The collagen molecule is large. More molecule means more water. In addition, collagen creates a thin breathable film on the surface of the skin. Therefore, it moisturizes well and prevents moisture loss. It also softens, gives smoothness and shine and does not leave any stickiness on the skin.

The film formed by collagen on the surface of the skin gradually dries and contracts, providing a lifting effect.

Promotes wound healing. This property of collagen is used in regenerating gels and creams, for example, in our beloved Emalan.

1. Prolongation of action of other components.

Prolongs the effect of extracts and oils when used together with collagen. Allows you to use less active substances and maintain the desired result.

Protects hair by creating a breathable film on its surface. Glues hair scales together. Gives shine.

Collagen and anti-age products

Collagen in anti-aging products is a good and healthy component. But not a panacea.

If you want to improve skin texture and fight wrinkles, the best option is to first remove old damaged collagen fibers (for example, with medium peels), and then stimulate the synthesis of new collagen.

This can be done with the help of long-wave laser therapy and proper nutrition, which contains nutrients necessary for collagen synthesis. Please pay attention to the following products:

1. cheese, eggs, fish, milk, poultry - good sources of protein, contain amino acids necessary for collagen synthesis;
2. blackberries, blueberries, cherries, raspberries — contain anthocyanidins;
3. citruses, strawberries, peppers, broccoli - contain a lot of vitamin C;
4. nuts, seafood, buckwheat, oatmeal - contain copper.

Plus use external cosmetics that will provide intense hydration and lifting (including those containing collagen).

Summarize

Collagen is the basis of our skin. It provides its strength and structure.

The skin undergoes a continuous process of synthesis and destruction of collagen fibers. This way the skin is constantly renewed. With age, collagen is destroyed faster and restored more slowly. In addition, collagen fibers are damaged by excessive UV radiation, smoking and sugar abuse.

Animal, marine and human collagen are used in cosmetics. Each of them can be native, hydrolyzed and soluble.

Regular (native) collagen cannot penetrate the skin and only works on the surface. Hydrolyzed and soluble - they can, but they are not full-fledged collagen. These are just individual amino acids and their chains (peptides). They do not have the properties of collagen.

To answer the question of whether collagen works in cosmetics, we need to understand what exactly we expect from it. Collagen from a jar will provide us with hydration, lifting, and regeneration. But, alas, he will not be able to turn back time.

Despite the fact that collagen is one of the main components of anti-wrinkle products, it is not a youthful apple. Collagen provides good hydration and lifting, so fine wrinkles smooth out and become less noticeable. But cosmetic collagen (even as part of fillers that penetrate the dermis) cannot in any way affect the synthesis of the skin’s own collagen. The body can only fully use the collagen that is synthesized internally by its own cells.

To effectively combat the signs of aging, you must first remove old, damaged collagen fibers. Then stimulate the synthesis of new collagen. And be sure to use competent anti-age care, including products containing collagen.

Still have questions? Ask in the comments.

Improve your cosmetic literacy and be beautiful.