Cosmetics with retinol

Published Dec 22, 2013

Autumn and winter are the best time to try or repeat a course of retinol-based anti-aging care. I want to share my experience of using it, perhaps it will help someone avoid mistakes and unwanted effects, and I will also tell you about fairly effective and inexpensive pharmaceutical cosmetics containing retinol.

Having demonstrated its high effectiveness in combating all signs of skin aging (loss of elasticity, wrinkles, pigmentation), retinol rightfully tops the list of the most effective anti-aging ingredients in cosmetic products.

As you know, retinol, or vitamin A, is a fat-soluble vitamin that we need for vision, healthy skin and hair, normal functioning of the immune system and bone growth. It is also a natural antioxidant and humectant. Split ends, brittle nails and the appearance of cracks in the skin and corners of the lips often indicate a lack of this vitamin. It is found in the highest concentrations in liver, fish oil, egg yolk, as well as in plant foods - green and yellow vegetables and fruits, and some legumes.

It is difficult to stabilize retinol in its pure form, so its synthetic analogues, retinoids, are used for cosmetic purposes. The most common form in creams is Retinyl palmitate, it is a more stable chemical compound and is not as irritating to the skin. Many products also use a form of retinol such as Retinaldehyde, which allows them to be used even on sensitive skin without the side effects of redness and peeling.

What are the improvements in skin condition after using retinol?

1. Visible smoothingwrinkles both subtle and more defined;
2. Lightening pigment spots and overall evening out skin tone, thanks to the ability of retinol to regulate melanocyte activity;
3. Smoothing and evening out skin texture, pores become less noticeable, skin smoother due to the renewing properties of this component (stimulates the proliferation of epidermal keratinocytes).
4. Skin elasticity increases, retinol is the only active ingredient that affects collagen in 3 directions: it restores damaged fibers, stimulates the production of new ones and protects by inhibiting collagenase.

What do you need to know before you start using retinol?

Retinol increases skin sensitivity and photosensitivity, Therefore, it is recommended for night care, while during the day a cream with a high degree of protection will be needed. It is recommended to start using products with retinol in the fall, when solar activity decreases, and then take a break in the spring-summer. With proper consistent use of retinol in combination with other care products (containing peptides, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid), the result will immediately appear after 2 months of use. During pregnancy and lactation, it is better to avoid products with retinol.

How to properly use retinol-containing products to achieve maximum effectiveness?

The latest generation of cosmetic products usually contain microencapsulated pure retinol, which is released upon contact with the skin and consistently delivers optimal doses of vitamin A to the deep layers of the epidermis.

Most European dermatologists and dermopharmacists recommend starting rejuvenation course with retinol from its small concentrations (0.50% - 0.1%) or from products containing the precursor of retinoic acid - retinoldehyde, which is well tolerated even by sensitive skin prone to allergic reactions. Since we are talking about rejuvenation, as a rule, there is no need to use products with retinol until the age of 35–40, although this does not mean that after 35 it is already necessary to use it. It all depends on the condition of the skin, its needs and the products used previously.

Creams with retinol are best used for night care. 3 times a week. However, it is also possible to use retinol daily as intensive therapy - in small concentrations for 2 months, and then for maintenance care - 2-3 times a week.

The product is applied to thoroughly cleansed, dry skin; upon first use, a slight tingling may occur until the skin gradually gets used to it.

If you need to use an additional care product after a product with retinol, you should wait at least 30 minutes before applying the next product (this can be moisturizing, tightening serums or creams). However, as a rule, night creams with retinol also contain other active caring ingredients, which makes them comprehensive, complete care.

What products can you combine retinol with for the effect of renewed, smooth skin?

It is very important to remember that retinol is hydroscopic, i.e. can dehydrate the skin, therefore, it is necessary to combine its use with moisture-retaining products rich in hyaluronic acid or gluconolactone. Their use should be included in your daily morning care routine, and a deeply moisturizing mask should be applied at least once a week.

Thanks to its renewing ability, retinol is ideal as a transcursor for the absorption of the active ingredients of products combined with it. The best results were seen when combined with vitamin C, that is, retinol at night, vitamin C in the morning. As a night remedy on days when retinol cream is not applied, many cosmetologists advise using products with glycolic acid, which itself itself is one of the strongest anti-aging agents. Thus, the superficial layers of the epidermis (glycolic acid) and deeper layers (retinol) are gently exfoliated and renewed. I talked about my experience using products with glycolic acid here, and about the top 5 best pharmacy creams containing it here.

Psample model of anti-aging skin care routine with a course of retinol it will look like this:

Morning: cleansing + antioxidant moisturizer with vitamin C + SPF (remember to reapply every two hours if you are outdoors).

Evening: cleansing + product with retinol (2 – 3 times a week) + if necessary, additional care product, wait 30 minutes. On the remaining days of the week, instead of retinol, a product with glycolic acid is applied. It is necessary to supplement this treatment with a deeply moisturizing mask 1-2 times a week.

Personal experience using retinol

I bought my first cream with retinol after 35 years, it was Retinol 0,3% from SkinCeuticals. I wanted to smooth out already noticeable wrinkles between the eyebrows and on the forehead, narrow pores and make the surface of the skin smoother, even out its tone, and also lighten post-acne spots. By that time, I was already using creams containing 15% glycolic acid, which my skin responded to with a bang. My dermopharmacist advised me to add retinol to my skincare regimen in the fall to work more deeply on facial wrinkles between the eyebrows and, in general, on uneven skin texture.

I must say that I adhered to the above-mentioned care regimen and in the morning I used liposomal antioxidant serum C-Vit from Sesderma, and a protective screen from SkinCeuticals Ultra Facial Defense SPF50. In night care I alternated Retinol 0,3% (3 times a week) with NeoStrata High Potency Gel with 15% glycolic acid. I combined both of these products with active moisturizing and tightening ampoules Endocare Tensage.

After just two weeks of such care, the skin tone noticeably evened out, it tightened and became more radiant, smoothed, and the pores became cleaner. At the same time, I began to feel a slight tightness and dehydration, and sometimes the skin on my nose peeled off. These troubles quickly disappeared with the introduction of a moisturizing serum with a high content of hyaluronic acid Hydrating B5 from SkinCeuticals into my morning routine (the dermatologist recommended applying it over the C-vit serum) and using a moisturizing mask-cream from Caudalie twice a week.

As for the expression wrinkles on the forehead and between the eyebrows, after a 2-month course they definitely softened, but still cannot be said to have “disappeared”.

Top 5 pharmacy creams with retinol

1. Retinol 0,3%, SkinCeuticals is my favorite and an absolute must have for nighttime anti-aging care during the fall-winter period. Ultra-light texture, quickly absorbed without leaving a greasy film. Average price 90 euros. Capacity 30 ml. It is used very sparingly: it was enough for a full course of 5-6 months and the contents still remained.

2. Redermic R, La Roche-Posay - this cream, in the year of its appearance, 2012, became the winner in the category “Best innovative product among anti-aging products” according to the results of the annual vote of dermopharmacists in Spain. High efficiency without skin irritation, pleasant light texture. Average price 38 euros.

3. Eluage, Avéne - a whole range of products for the care of the face, eye contour and body. An ideal product for sensitive skin based on retinoldehyde, it improves skin elasticity. For the face it is available in the form of an emulsion - for normal, oily or combination skin, and in the form of a cream for dry skin. Average price 30 euros.

4. LipoCeutical Retises Nano, the Spanish pharmaceutical concern Sesderma, - the advantage of this product is that retinol is contained in nanosomes, which promotes its transport to the deeper layers of the epidermis. Available in concentrations of 0.15%, 0.25% and 0.50%. Price from 45 to 50 euros depending on concentration.

5. Kinetinol, Martiderm. Its texture is more suitable for normal and dry skin; it also has a restorative and nourishing effect. Here, retinol acts in synergy with such an active component as kinetin; in addition, it contains macadamia oil, shea butter, jojoba oil, vitamin E and a regenerating complex. Average price 32 euros.

Have you already used products with retinol? Which product containing it was effective for you?

Content:

What is retinol acetate used for?

1. Acne. Someone learns about such a diagnosis during puberty, when key life processes are restructured, preparing the teenage body for conceiving and bearing future children.
   However, it also happens differently - a person has long passed the active phase of maturation, however, problematic skin continues to bother. In such cases, the lack of retinol is to blame, which is needed for:

1. reducing the size of the sebaceous glands and secretion production;
2. reducing the effect of microbes settling on the skin;
3. eliminating inflammation of the hair follicles;
4. preventing the formation of dandruff.

Lack of retinol in the body

You can determine the lack of a useful element yourself by carefully looking at the external signs:

1. peeling of the skin;
2. pain in the eyes;
3. early wrinkles;
4. “goose bumps” on the thighs, buttocks and elbow area.

Excess Vitamin A

Excess Vitamin A is also possible, since retinol, like any other element, tends to be deposited in fatty tissues. Oversaturation of the body with retinol leads to intoxication, which is expressed by:

1. headaches,
2. swelling,
3. cracks in the corners of the lips,
4. severe itching.

If the manifestation of the above symptoms becomes noticeable, you should stop taking the vitamin. However, it is better to first consult a specialist.

Vitamin A in cosmetology

1. The number of cosmetic products containing vitamin complexes is regularly growing. An important function of retinol is its antioxidant effect. It helps destroy harmful oxygen molecules produced by exposure to sunlight. So-called free radicals damage elastic tissue, creating conditions for the formation of wrinkles. Vitamin A prevents these processes, maintaining the natural freshness of the skin.
   
2. The cell regeneration process takes about 27-28 days. Retinolic acid and other derivatives of Vitamin A have a protective and healing effect, thereby improving blood circulation and natural rejuvenation. In addition to its positive effect on the skin, this vitamin protects nails from splitting and gives natural shine, elasticity and silkiness to hair.

Cosmetic products containing Vitamin A are not cheap. However, it is worth trying creams and lotions at least once to ensure their effectiveness. The maximum benefit comes from products that contain Vitamin C in addition to retinol. In the natural environment, these elements cannot act simultaneously, since Vitamin C is soluble only in water, and retinolic acid is only soluble in oil. But cosmetologists managed to combine the incompatible, using unique formulas. If you can’t afford a two-in-one product, don’t despair.

Cream containing Vitamin C should be applied in the morning, and cosmetics with retinol should be applied in the evening. It is important not to change the sequence, since ultraviolet rays, when interacting with Vitamin A, have a detrimental effect on the skin, while penetrating deep into the skin and destroying DNA at the cellular level. To avoid disastrous consequences, you should adhere to the above recommendations.

Before you start actively using cosmetics with retinolic acid, you need to take care of basic safety, that is, conduct an allergy test. It is enough to apply a small amount, for example, at the elbow. If the appearance of the area remains unchanged the next day, you can proceed to use the product. But it is worth remembering that the skin on the face is more susceptible to various drugs. The appearance of peeling, red spots or irritation indicates rejection of the composition. It is best to stop using the product.

It is also important to note that most retinol products do not provide immediate results. Sometimes minimal results can only be seen after using the product for a few weeks. If you do not see any positive results after many weeks of use, look for another cream.

Forms of vitamin A in creams

In order to choose the right inexpensive cream with retinol, you need to understand in more detail the forms of this substance and understand why some products are more expensive, while others, having a higher concentration of retinol, are still cheaper.
It is important to note that vitamin A itself is weaker than retinol, since after applying it to the skin, our body must make some effort to convert it into retinoic acid in order for its maximum absorption and subsequent benefits to the skin.
Today, several forms of vitamin A are used in cosmetology:

Retinol is pure vitamin A.
Many cosmetic companies prefer to use pure retinol. Conversion to retinoic acid is a two-step process that inhibits effectiveness, but despite this, retinol still contains enough punch and works great. At first there may be some mild irritation, which usually goes away as the skin gets used to it. This is an excellent alternative to tertinic acid for long-term use.

Retinol palmitate in cosmetics.
It is a combination of retinol and palmitic acid, which although it converts into retinoic acid, the process takes too long, causing it to lose its ability to distinguish between cell DNA. Therefore, for such retinol to bring at least some benefit, it will need a high concentration.

Inexpensive cream with retinol

1. Perhaps the cheapest cream based on vitamin A will be a penny face ointment from the Aevit pharmacy, which contains vitamin A and vitamin E. An excellent penny remedy that not everyone knows about.

Another place where you should look for an inexpensive cream with retinol is the world-famous AliExpress store, where they sell a wide variety of cosmetics, including Korean and high-quality Chinese ones. By spending just one evening reading reviews, you can pick up a very inexpensive, excellent cosmetic product for a very reasonable price.

NEUTROGENA WRINKLE REPAIR NIGHT MOISTURIZER (approximately $19) — Relatively inexpensive and highly lauded, this retinol-infused moisturizer does a great job of keeping skin hydrated and nourished.

ROC RETINOL CORREXION SENSITIVE NIGHT CREAM (approximate cost $20) is another good cream with retinol, designed for sensitive skin, as it does not cause irritation. Fights the appearance of wrinkles, evens out tone and moisturizes well.

In addition to treatment with cosmetics, you need to diversify your diet with foods such as fish, cod liver, asparagus, carrots, tomatoes, and fruits. You can drink freshly squeezed juices before meals, and you should also give up monotonous diets.

Well-known cosmetic companies are constantly improving their technologies aimed at combating skin aging and offering the latest developments in this area. Retinol face cream is one of the innovative cosmetic products that has a wonderful rejuvenating effect. Retinol is a fat-soluble vitamin A that has a strong antioxidant effect and prevents skin aging. Therefore, many scientists call it the “vitamin of youth.”

Properties of vitamin A

Pure retinol could not be used in the manufacture of cosmetics for quite a long time. It reacted with other components and oxidized, making it unusable. But more recently, chemist scientists have made a breakthrough in this area by creating a stable form of the substance - a retinoid. It is the retinoid or its varieties (adapalene, trans-retinoic acid, retinyl palmitate) that are used as components of creams.

Composition of products containing retinols

The composition of the products also includes other useful substances. They vary depending on the effect and purpose of the product. Most often, retinol is combined with the following components:

1. Vitamin E perfectly complements retinol, enhancing the anti-aging effect;
2. vitamin C promotes a slower breakdown of retinoids and acts as a strong anti-inflammatory substance;
3. panthenol stimulates regeneration and heals wounds and damage;
4. hyaluronic acid and sea thermal water perfectly moisturize the epidermis;
5. oils and plant extracts nourish the skin and help vitamin A to be quickly absorbed;
6. marine collagen provides the epidermis with additional building material;
7. glycolic acid enhances anti-aging effect;
8. fruit acids cleanse the skin, making it smooth and even.

Operating principle

The main positive effects of retinoids:

1. Pronounced effect of regeneration and restoration. They have a beneficial effect on the condition of the epidermis, eliminate pigmentation, smooth out scars, and improve complexion.
2. Actively moisturize and normalize the water balance of dry skin.
3. They reduce the fat content of the epidermis, reduce the formation of sebaceous secretions, and relieve inflammation.
4. They increase the formation of collagen and elastin, thereby restoring the skin and becoming elastic.
5. They improve blood circulation, strengthen capillaries, and saturate the epidermis with nutrients and vitamins.
6. They have an antioxidant effect and prevent the effects of harmful environmental factors.
7. Helps reduce wrinkles, increase elasticity and smooth the surface of the epidermis.

Particularly effective retinoid products on aging skin that shows signs of aging.

Contraindications for use

When purchasing a cream or ointment with retinol, you must first familiarize yourself with the contraindications. Such products are strictly prohibited from being used in the following conditions:

1. pregnancy and breastfeeding;
2. individual intolerance to components;
3. oncology;
4. severe course of any disease;
5. inflammation of the skin at the intended site of exposure;
6. herpes;
7. use of vitamins and certain medications.

Before using the cream, you should perform a preliminary allergy test. To do this, you need to apply the product to the delicate part of the skin, which is located on the bend of the elbow. And monitor the appearance of a possible reaction throughout the day. This check is especially relevant for people having sensitive, dry or thin skin.

Rules for using the cream

Retinol cream should not be applied in a thick layer, as this can lead to skin irritation. The cream is used in courses of 1-2 months, after which a break is definitely needed. Immediately after applying the product, you should avoid contact with direct sunlight, as under the influence of retinol the skin becomes sensitive to ultraviolet rays. Similar cosmetics are not recommended for use during treatment with certain medications, so before you start using the cream, you should consult your doctor.

Rules for using retinol cream:

1. It is not recommended to use before 35-40 years of age, since the main effect is rejuvenation of mature skin.
2. It is better to start using such products in the fall, when sun activity decreases. This is due to the fact that retinol makes the skin sensitive to ultraviolet radiation. During the day, it is necessary to use creams and foundations with high protection from solar radiation.
3. Cosmetologists and dermatologists recommend starting a rejuvenating course by using a cream with a low concentration of retinol (0.5−0.1%), so that the skin gradually gets used to it and there is no intolerance reaction.
4. After the first application to the skin, redness often occurs, but this is an adequate reaction that will go away later. It is recommended to apply the cream twice a week before bedtime. The amount of application can be increased depending on skin reactions.
5. The cream is applied to dry and cleansed skin. At the beginning of use, a tingling and burning sensation may occur, but the skin will gradually get used to the retinol and these phenomena will disappear.
6. The positive effect of the cream can be enhanced by combining it with masks and cosmetics with vitamin C.

Such creams can be day or night. Night ones contain a higher concentration retinol. The day cream contains less of it and contains substances that protect the skin from exposure to ultraviolet radiation.

Types of creams

The safest and most effective are pharmacy creams. They are distinguished by high quality and a strong therapeutic effect, which is often compared to salon rejuvenating procedures.

There are a lot of similar cosmetics - both domestic and imported manufacturers, different price categories, with various additional components, so it will not be difficult to choose the most suitable retinol creams for you.

The list of the most effective means is very wide. It is better to buy retinol face cream at the pharmacy. As a rule, their price is much higher, but the results from their use are worth it.

1. Retinol 0.3% (SkinCeuticals). An excellent night care cream in autumn or winter. The texture is light, so the product is absorbed very well into the skin and does not leave an unpleasant film on the face. The cream is very economical to use.
2. Redermic R (La Roche-Posay). The product was created in 2012 and in the same year won the category “Best Innovative Anti-Aging Product” in Spain. High efficiency is achieved without discomfort or skin irritation.
3. Eluage (Avene). The product line includes a whole range of eye, face and body care products. A retinoldehyde-based product is ideal for sensitive skin, increasing its elasticity. It is available in the form of a cream for dry skin, and in the form of an emulsion for oily, sensitive and combination skin.
4. LipoCeutical Retises Nano (Sesderma). A Spanish product, the main advantage of which is that retinol is contained in nanosomes and this allows the active component to penetrate into the deep layers of the skin. Available in concentrations of 0.50%, 0.25% and 0.15%.
5. Kinetinol (Martiderm). The ointment is best suited for dry and normal skin. Has a nourishing and regenerating effect. In addition to retinol, the composition contains kinetin, shea butter, jojoba, macadamia, vitamin E and regenerating components.

Domestic market presented with more budget options. The most popular face creams with Russian-made retinol are from the cosmetic companies Black Pearl and Natura Siberika, all of whose products are much cheaper than imported ones.

Which product to choose is up to everyone to decide for themselves. But you can find a high-quality and truly effective product in any price category.