Vitamin C properties in cosmetics

Vitamin C can be called one of the main secrets of clear and glowing skin. That's why it is so often found in skincare products: anti-aging, whitening, moisturizing. With the development of technology, analogous substances appeared. We try to understand their diversity and create an ideal skin care program.

Why is vitamin C needed in cosmetics?

Our body cannot synthesize vitamin C on its own. However, this substance is an important component of human health. The skin especially needs it: its content is concentrated in the epidermis, its upper layer. There is slightly less vitamin C in the dermis, the middle layer.
But vitamin C has one feature - its extreme instability. That is why for health it is necessary to maintain the level of vitamin C in the body not only from the inside - through food, but also from the outside - through the skin.

Functions of vitamin C in cosmetic products

Vitamin C has long been used in the production of cosmetics. It is especially valuable for its complex beneficial effects on the skin. Cosmetic products with vitamin C perform a number of important functions:

— Protecting the skin from the negative effects of ultraviolet radiation.

Vitamin C maintains the skin's protective barrier, protects it from sun exposure and enhances the effect of SPF products. Therefore, it can often be seen in products for and after tanning. Ascorbic acid phosphate, a derivative of vitamin C, is capable of restoring sections of DNA damaged by solar radiation.

— Preservation of moisture in the skin.

Strengthens the epidermal barrier of the skin. Thanks to the effect of vitamin C on lipid production, the skin loses less moisture.

— Antioxidant protection and anti-aging care.

Vitamin C has long been known for its antioxidant properties. It actively fights premature skin aging and photoaging, maintains skin firmness and elasticity. Vitamin C also affects collagen synthesis, reduces wrinkles and prevents the appearance of new ones.

— Skin whitening and protection against pigmentation.

Vitamin C can slow down the production of melanin in the body, a pigment that is responsible for pigmentation. It brightens pigment spots, gives the skin radiance and an even, beautiful color.

— Calming effect and fight acne.

Thanks to its positive effect on inflammation and redness, vitamin C can quickly soothe irritated skin. It helps fight acne and also lightens its marks.

Despite the importance of vitamin C for the body, in nature it has low stability. Destructive factors can be not only ultraviolet radiation and high temperature, but also air oxygen. In natural cosmetic products, iron and copper can accelerate the destruction of vitamin C. The destruction and oxidation of vitamin C in cosmetics makes skin care less effective.

Can vitamin C harm you?

Vitamin C can only cause damage to the skin if it is present in high levels in cosmetic products. Therefore, it is better to start using natural creams, tonics and serums with a low percentage of vitamin C in the product, gradually increasing its intensity.
When exposed to ultraviolet radiation and atmospheric oxygen, vitamin C promotes the formation of free radicals in the skin. At the same time, it is quickly absorbed into the skin and remains in the body for three days, even if you wash off the product. Therefore, in summer it is better to use products with vitamin C at night, and look for its stable forms in cosmetics.

What to look for on the packaging?

Various vitamin C derivatives are actively used in the production of natural cosmetics.

1. The gold standard of vitamin C

You can often find ascorbic acid in the product - the most effective and studied derivative of vitamin C. On the packaging it can be designated as L-ascorbic acid, LAA.

Ascorbic acid is a powerful antioxidant, highly soluble in water and absorbed by the skin. It is most effective to use a product with an ascorbic acid concentration of at least 15%. Ascorbic acid protects against the negative effects of UV irradiation and the sun, is responsible for the elasticity, firmness and hydration of the skin, reduces pigmentation and post-acne.
Among the important benefits of ascorbic acid is the ability to slow down glycation. As a nice bonus, ascorbic acid evens out the complexion and even gives the skin radiance.

Ascorbic acid is extremely unstable in nature: it is destroyed by exposure to the sun, high temperatures and air. It disintegrates in just 24 hours. To increase stability, it functions at low pH, to which the skin responds with irritation.

In addition, using products with high concentrations of ascorbic acid can cause itching and redness.

2. Ascorbyl palmitate: a worthy alternative

Often cosmetic products contain complex compounds. One of them is the result of mixing two acids: ascorbic and palmitic. The substance is called ascorbyl palmitate. On the packaging it is indicated as ascorbyl palmitate, AA-PAL or ascorbic acid-6-palmitate (AA6P).

Ascorbyl palmitate is not an acid, which makes its effect more delicate. It dissolves well in water and fat and is well absorbed by the skin, moisturizing it. An important advantage of ascorbyl palmitate is its greater resistance to destruction compared to ascorbic acid. It also prevents damage caused by excessive UV irradiation, and also promotes collagen synthesis - in case of sufficient concentration in cosmetics.

Despite its beneficial properties, ascorbyl palmitate still has disadvantages. In particular, studies have not found any effect of the substance on skin pigmentation. If this is your main problem, cosmetic products containing this form of vitamin C may not be effective.
Ascorbyl palmitate also suffers from the spread of free radicals if UV radiation reaches it. It is stable only at low pH values ​​and the absence of water in the formula; it oxidizes when interacting with air, light and heat.

3. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate: a compromise solution

The development of science has made it possible to correct many of the shortcomings of vitamin C analogues. The combination of ascorbic acid and isopalmitic acid is called tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. It may be listed on the packaging as ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (VC-IP).
pros
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is an excellent antioxidant, it is both fat- and water-soluble, magically turns into vitamin C when applied to the skin, continues its abilities in collagen synthesis, and even makes pigmentation lighter. Is it worth saying that this ascorbate has a gentle effect on the skin, while thoroughly moisturizing it?
Minuses
Like other forms of vitamin C, tetrahexyldecyl causes the formation of free radicals when exposed to sunlight.

4. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate: among the favorites

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate by its nature is the sodium salt of ascorbic acid.

pros

The stability of the compound is superior to ascorbic acid and ascorbyl palmitate. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is stable at a pH of up to 7, retains moisture well in the skin, has an anti-inflammatory effect (in a concentration of 5%), fights acne-causing bacteria (in a concentration of 1%).

While sodium ascorbyl phosphate protects against the harm of UV irradiation, it is less effective than ascorbic acid. It also loses on other fronts: yes, it stimulates collagen synthesis, but magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is always ahead of it. Reduces pigmentation, but other forms achieve much more significant results in this area.

5. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate: Ideal Formula

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, along with sodium ascorbyl phosphate, is considered one of the best forms of vitamin C in cosmetics. This is a stable form of vitamin C that retains its functions even at low concentrations.

The use of a non-acidic form of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate allows you to create cosmetic products with minimal negative effects on the skin. It remains stable when exposed to sunlight and air. It has all the same beneficial functions as other forms of vitamin C, since it is converted into ascorbic acid when it comes into contact with the skin. With the right formula, the product penetrates the skin very well, does not irritate it, and is suitable for sensitive skin.
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is responsible for transepidermal water loss and, at a concentration of 5%, reduces pigmentation.

Skin protection from the sun under the influence of this particular component has not been clinically proven.

Vitamin C exhibits maximum beneficial properties when used simultaneously with vitamin E. Therefore, when choosing cosmetics, pay attention to all the ingredients of the cosmetic product.

What to look for when buying natural cosmetics?

Considering how easily vitamin C is destroyed by the external environment, pay attention to the packaging. Proper packaging for products containing vitamin C should be made of thick plastic or dark glass. The ideal option is a vacuum dispenser, which protects the product from sunlight and contact with air, increasing the stability of vitamin C.

Natural cosmetics with vitamin C for the face and body are often more expensive than other cosmetic lines. This is explained by the use of expensive, stable forms of vitamin C, which ensure the effectiveness of the product. After all, a jar of cream or lotion cannot be used in just one day. Another factor influencing the cost of the product is packaging, which ensures the safety of all components of cosmetics. High quality materials do cost more. But the cost of the shell is fully justified, maintaining the effectiveness of the contents many times longer than a cheap analogue.

And what should be an effective remedy based on it?

Text: Mur Soboleva, author of the Fierce&Cute Telegram channel

The nasty autumn weather is reflected on our beautiful faces: if in the summer (normal, not this year) the skin usually glows almost on its own, then the rest of the time I want to help it somehow. The main fighter for smooth, healthy skin is vitamin C. But, as they say, there are nuances.

3lab Perfect C Treatment Serum. Vitamin C from the cosmically expensive and congenially effective brand 3lab: the serum costs like a cast-iron bridge, but it works and is used very economically Clinique Fresh Pressed. New this year is vitamin C in powder (that is, the most stable) form, which is mixed with the emulsion right before use. Concentration 10%, used in a weekly course

Vitamin C was discovered only in 1912, but over the past hundred or so years it has been unambiguously recognized as one of the most important substances for the human body. It is synthesized from glucose and produced by most living organisms on earth, with the exception, however, of humans - we, like other primates, are unlucky in this regard. The main function of vitamin C is to fight oxidative stress, that is, cell destruction under the influence of toxic forms of oxygen. A diet rich in ascorbic acid is useful and even necessary for the body, but it has no significance for the skin: everything is excreted through the excretory system, therefore, in order to provide the skin with vitamin C, one has to use the wonders of the cosmetic industry. The skin needs vitamin C (its best known form is ascorbic acid) primarily for the same purposes as the body - as an antioxidant.

A few words about antioxidants. There are many of them, and some of them are produced by our own body, but this process, like many others, slows down over the years. Cosmetics containing antioxidants, as Dr. Mike Bell explains in an interview with British Marie Claire, not only neutralize free radicals in the upper layers of the skin, but also trigger corresponding internal processes. Ideally, at the same time, the body is supported from the inside by the antioxidants that we get from food and as dietary supplements. The main problem is the digestibility and biological activity of antioxidants, which must be maintained.

Dr. Jart+ V7 Spot Eraser. Delightful Koreans boldly combine all the active ingredients in this roll-on eye serum: niacinamide, retinol, and vitamin C in two forms of Ultraceuticals Ultra C Firming Eye Cream. The professional brand Ultraceuticals has both concentrated salon products and effective home remedies. For example, this eye cream really reduces dark circles

Vitamin C is considered in dermatology to be one of the main, if not the main, antioxidant. Medical website WebMD lists vitamin C products as "probably effective" for promoting skin healing after laser treatments and for combating photoaging. Cosmetic chemist blog The Beauty Brains highlights five main benefits of vitamin C that can affect the skin: collagen formation (vitamin C is involved in the formation of stable collagen fibers), acne and post-acne treatment, improving skin barrier function, protecting against UV rays and preventing hyperpigmentation . Vitamin C is one of the few ingredients that can influence melanogenesis, destroying the direct process of pigment spot formation. An important point: despite the fact that vitamin C protects against photoaging, it is not a means of sun protection, so you should always use creams with SPF over care containing ascorbic acid.

In cosmetics, vitamin C can come in different forms, but it is usually ascorbic acid or L-ascorbic acid, a well-studied and active form. The effectiveness of vitamin C is directly proportional to its concentration, but more than 20% is usually not added to home care products: sometimes it is 25%, but the professional journal Indian Dermatology Online Journal, citing clinical studies, states that the body simply does not absorb more than 20%. The standard concentration is 5–10%: this is enough for effective care, while minimizing the risk of irritation. However, the same Indian Dermatology Online Journal warns that nuances are important because some forms of vitamin C do not remain biologically active in the skin.

Rejudicare 2CRM+. This drip serum for mature skin contains vitamin C in two forms, vitamin E and peptides. There is also a version for young skin - called simply 2CRM and contains only the antioxidants Cosmetics 27 Complex 27 C. It combines skin-restoring centella asiatica, which Michelle Evrard, the creator of Cosmetic 27, puts in all her products, and our hero vitamin C

The main problem with vitamin C is its instability: like all antioxidants, it is extremely sensitive to light and air and breaks down very quickly. The success of the formula depends on stabilizing agents and the pH level (it should be below 3.5), but even more so on the packaging: the best products containing ascorbic acid are packaged in opaque tubes or (even better) in sealed bottles with a pump. The cream in a classic jar, unfortunately, will be effective for a very short time, even if its formula is stabilized. The ideal format for vitamin C is a powder that is mixed with an emulsion or cream immediately before use.

The burning question is the compatibility of vitamin C with other active ingredients, but here, as it turns out, everything is not bad. The most popular combination is vitamins C and E (it is also an antioxidant): they are often added to the same products to make the antioxidant effect more powerful, and together they even out skin tone well. "Cosmetic Cop" Paula Begun debunks popular myths that vitamin C cannot be used together with niacinamide and retinol: it turns out that in combination, everyone involved only becomes more effective. Combining vitamin C with acids is also possible, but pay attention to the pH of your products: if it varies greatly, it makes sense to wait until the acid product is completely absorbed before applying vitamin C cream.

Vitamin C has long been synonymous with health and one of the most popular means for oral and external intake. The presence of an ingredient such as Ascorbic Acid in the product guarantees that you have come across a product containing vitamin C.

What is vitamin C for?

The body does not produce vitamin C itself, so it is important to get enough vitamins both from edible foods and applied externally. The most interesting thing is that vitamin C lives mainly in the epidermis, the upper layer of the face, which is why products with it are considered the most effective!

What does vitamin C do?

This ingredient is absolutely magical. It helps you:

1. Synthesize collagen.
   Under the influence of vitamin C, our skin begins to produce its own collagen, strengthen and increase its elasticity. This is why cosmetics are recommended for aging skin.
2. Increase your level of sun protection.
   But this does not mean that if you apply cream with vitamin C, you don’t have to use Sunscreen. Quite the contrary. Without Sanskrin it will have the opposite effect. Therefore, we apply something with vitamin C under sun protection and enjoy excellent skin protection.
3. Give your skin a glow with Vitamin E.
   These two ingredients enhance each other, and when they are combined in one product, this means that the product is stable, has a long shelf life and is very effective.
4. Reduce pigmentation and even out skin tone.
   The remarkable ability of this vitamin to whiten spots has not gone unnoticed by cosmetics manufacturers.
5. Treat acne.
   Vitamin C relieves inflammation and skin irritation, which is undoubtedly useful for teenagers and young skin. The main thing is not to use it on open inflammations and wounds. I’ll tell you why below in the part about contraindications.
6. Retain moisture in the skin.
   When combined with hyaluronic acid or collagen, it helps to maximize skin hydration and keep it healthy and smooth.
7. Narrow pores.
   Yes, vitamin C can tighten pores and brighten them. This is an unspoken, but real effect, which has been tested by numerous bloggers and those using Korean (and not only) cosmetics.

In general, the real multi-stationary product is our vitamin C.

Who should be careful with vitamin C?

However, sensitive skin should use this vitamin with caution. Firstly, it can cause itching, irritation and will sting if there are wounds on the skin. In this regard, the use of products with it with a mesoscooter is contraindicated. All you'll get is a scary red face.

In addition, individual intolerance to this vitamin by sensitive skin can provoke more severe development of acne and inflammation. Especially if the concentration is more than 15%.

Which vitamin C product should you include in your care?

The most effective, of course, are serums with vitamin C. They penetrate the skin most deeply and nourish it best. But in this case - and this is rare - absolutely all means work: foams, peelings, creams and masks! This is such a nice bonus and “hello” from our vitamin. The concentration of products in cosmetics is from 0.3 to 20%. Higher - it works worse. The maximum effect of the vitamin is at a concentration of 10%, but even products with 0.6% work gently and have an effect.

How should you handle vitamin C?

Cosmetics with it require different storage. Let's say the famous serum with 20% is intended for course use and is unstable. It is sealed in a dark glass bottle and should be stored in the refrigerator. 3 months after opening it is no longer effective. Manufacturers have found a way to stabilize the vitamin so that it retains its beneficial qualities; for this they add either vitamin E, ferulic acid, or envelop it in special liposomes, which, like clothing, protect it from destruction.

But nevertheless, in order for vitamin C products to remain as effective as possible, they must be stored tightly closed, in a cold or cool place and without direct access to sunlight. It is very important. In general, it is better to put serums in the refrigerator, no matter whether they are stabilized or not.

What other products contain vitamin C?

Oddly enough, this Broccoli and Kale — a series with these ingredients was released by the famous company INNISFREE a couple of years ago. Tony Moly also has a mask with broccoli - Tony Moly I’m Real Mask Sheet

Kiwi - another source of vitamin C, for example, peeling from Holika Holika will be very useful for you

Citrus - of course: orange, tangerine, lemon, grapefruit and other familiar comrades

Mango — The Skin House has a soft and rich face cream: The Skin House Mango Fresh Cream

A pineapple — the Skinfood brand has a delicious face mask with pineapple

Papaya - last but not least, a source of papain, it can be found in any enzyme powder or in The Face Shop Smart Peeling Mild Papaya Peeling

Products with strawberries — they exist, but unfortunately, they are released extremely rarely (consider them almost never released)

I have compiled my own list of vitamin C products that you can take note of: read