Normally, the skin has a pH environment

Translated from Latin, pH (pondus Hydrogenii) means “the power of hydrogen.” Ever since school, everyone knows that skin pH is an indicator of acid and alkali. And, perhaps, this is where most people’s knowledge about the acid-base environment ends.

Maria Burakova, cosmetologist at the Orange beauty salon chain (St. Petersburg)

To correct this injustice, Letidor called for help from Maria Burakova, a cosmetologist at the Orange beauty salon chain (St. Petersburg).

Fact No. 1: the health of our body depends on the acid-base balance

The acid-base environment has many functions. Proper cell division, the work of enzymes, the production of hormones, energy exchange, protection from pathogenic flora, and the rate of renewal of the stratum corneum of our skin depend on it.

With severe acidification or alkalization, cells die. Therefore, it is very important to maintain acid-base balance.

Products in the photo: hydrophilic oil for removing makeup and impurities, Dermalogica; regenerating cream Regen Ceutic, Dermaceutic; Goog Cera facial mist, Holika Holika; ultra-moisturizing serum with bioactive water, TOPICREM; floral tonic spray, Kypwell; micellar water with herbs, Kiehl’s

Fact #2: The pH level of the skin can be determined by the condition of its surface.

The optimal skin pH level is considered to be 5.5 (from 3.5 to 5.9). At the same time, oily skin has a more alkaline environment - 5.7-6, and dry skin has an acidic environment - 3-5.2.

Determine the acid-base balance yourself based on certain signs: if the skin has become more sensitive, irritated, excessive peeling, dryness, tightness has appeared, then we can say that The pH has shifted to the acidic side.

But the appearance of acne, inflammatory elements, excess greasiness, oily shine, and enlarged pores on the face indicates that alkalization of the skin occurs.

There are also various tests, answering the questions of which can help you understand your acidity level.

And cosmetologists have a special device, a pH meter, which accurately determines the level of acidity.

Fact #3: Skin pH levels change constantly

The skin's pH level can change throughout the day. This depends on proper care, cleansing the skin and the use of high-quality cosmetics, on the degree of water hardness, on the diet (for example, sweet foods acidify our body, but spicy and salty foods alkalize them), on alcohol consumption, on the drinking regime, on taking medications.

Of course, the pH of the skin also changes throughout the year. It depends on solar radiation, on how well we protect our skin from ultraviolet radiation.

In the development of many dermatological diseases, a significant role is played by disruption of the chemical composition of the skin's aqueous environment. One of its main indicators is the PH level of the skin, which must be taken into account not only for treatment purposes, but also for the correct selection of skin care products. “PH” is expressed in arbitrary units from 0 to 14 and is a characteristic measure of the activity or concentration of hydrogen ions that cause an acidic environment.

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The number “7” indicates a neutral environment. Numbers below “6.5” indicate an acidic environment. The lower this indicator, the higher it is. Numbers above “7.5” characterize an alkaline environment formed by hydroxyl ions. The higher this number, the higher the degree of alkalinity.

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Skin PH properties and its indicators

The skin, being a receptor organ, prevents harmful substances and pathogenic microorganisms from entering the body, protects it from the influence of negative environmental factors, participates in immune processes, in the processes of thermoregulation and water-salt metabolism, in the removal of toxins and toxic substances from the body.

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They are constantly exposed to mechanical and chemical stress, exposure to infrared and ultraviolet rays, the influence of air temperature and microorganisms, etc. The correct ratio of acid and alkaline ions, or the acid-base balance of the skin, plays an important role in the adequate functioning of cells and the physiological course of various processes.

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The permeability of its barrier largely depends on the condition of the stratum corneum, which is the most important part of the epidermal barrier. The latter is formed by corneocytes (horny scales) and intercellular substance, consisting of various types of lipids, the main of which are:

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1. free fatty acids (10-15%) - linoleic, linolenic, oleic, palmitic and stearic; they maintain skin acidity and prevent excess transepidermal water loss;
2. ceramides (about 50%), located in the epidermal bilipid layer mainly in a gel-like state and having hydrophobic properties; the main function of ceramides is their antibacterial effect;
3. cholesterol, averaging 25% and providing ceramides with elasticity.

What should be the normal skin PH?

There is a significant difference in the hydrogen ion content between the dermal papillary and superficial layers. Average normal pH values ​​on the surface of the stratum corneum are 4.5, and in deeper layers they are equal to or less than 6.8. The normal pH range of human skin is from 3.5 to 5.9, which is associated with the composition of sweat, the level of lactic and acetic acids, free fatty acids, amino acids, and other metabolic products, as well as with the vital activity of saprophytic (resident) bacterial flora.

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Fluctuations in the acid-base balance are caused by:

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1. Endogenous factors, that is, age, gender, concomitant diseases, psychological state, etc.
2. Exogenous - seasonal and daily fluctuations, medication intake, diet, use of cosmetics, etc.

The normal acid-base state is different for different anatomical and physiological zones of the body. The pH balance of the scalp is from 4.5 to 5.5, the chest - from 5.1 to 5.5, the palmar surface of the hands - from 6.2 to 6.5. The greatest shift in balance to the alkaline side is observed in the axillary and groin areas.

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Women have higher skin acidity than men. Its different values ​​are determined even in different areas of the face. So, for example, in the area of ​​the eyelids and corners of the eyes it approaches neutral, in the frontal area - from 4.0 to 5.5, and the pH of the facial skin in the cheek area is from 4.2 to 5.9.

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Deviations from normal acidity levels can be the cause or consequence of many pathological conditions or serious disorders of barrier function. For example, a violation of the synthesis of lipids that take part in the regulation of the aquatic environment and acidity leads to irritation of the skin, its dryness, redness, disruption of the protective function and the development of pathogenic microorganisms in them.

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These changes occur with psoriatic lesions - deviation from the norm in the acidic direction, atopic dermatitis and acne - in the alkaline direction. Acne, as a rule, develops against the background of increased fat content, which is accompanied by a shift in the acid-base state from slightly acidic (normal) to the alkaline side. The pH of the skin with acne is about 6.0.

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Short-term deviations of the acid-base state to the neutral side do not cause significant changes in the integrity or function of the skin barrier. However, their repeated repetitions or a persistent increase in skin acidity become a consequence of serious violations of transepidermal regulatory mechanisms, which leads to excessive loss of water and dryness.

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How to determine acid-base balance

You can roughly determine the shift in PH balance using certain signs. If there is a shift to the more acidic side, symptoms appear:

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1. excessive dryness, feeling of tightness and itching;
2. excessive peeling;
3. tendency to irritation and redness;
4. feeling of greasy skin after cleansing and/or using moisturizers;
5. increased sensitivity when using various cosmetics.

There are also various tests with questions and suggested answers. For example, the nature of changes in the skin after cleansing, the number of facial moisturizers throughout the day, the nature of the reaction to decorative cosmetics, the frequency and regularity of redness and peeling, the time of day at which the severity of wrinkles increases, changes in fat content and the appearance of inflammatory reactions, the frequency of swelling and shine of the skin. Based on the sum of the points of the corresponding answers, one of the options for the acid-base state is determined - optimal, high or low acidity.

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In dermatology offices and beauty salons, portable non-invasive electronic testers with a colorimetric indicator or glass electrode are used to determine the acidity level in numerical terms - ph meters - to determine the pH of dry skin. An example of such a device is the “HI 98110 Skincheck” hair and skin tester.

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How to equalize skin PH

Factors that change acidity are:

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1. various diseases of internal organs, especially diabetes mellitus and other endocrine disorders;
2. taking medications, especially antibacterial, diuretic and antihypertensive drugs;
3. fungal diseases;
4. poor diet and activity patterns;
5. excessive psychological stress;
6. improper use (without taking into account acidity) of detergents and cosmetics for skin care;
7. use of hair dyes and perms;
8. increased water hardness and excessive exposure to sunlight;
9. the use of antioxidants and vitamin supplements.

Based on knowledge of the symptoms of acidity disorders and identification of individual causes, appropriate therapeutic and preventive measures are taken. Particular attention should be paid to detergents and skin care products.

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Despite the presence of PH values ​​on the packaging of most of these drugs or indications of their “balance” for this indicator, it is advisable to additionally use special test strips at home designed to determine the acidity of liquid substances. When using the cream, you can mix 1 teaspoon of it in 4 teaspoons of water. The acceptable pH for cleansers is from 5.5 to 6.5, moisturizing creams are 5.0, and moisturizing-exfoliative creams are from 3.0 to 4.0.

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The best option is to select the necessary cosmetics and detergents for skin care based on an accurate determination of the acid-base balance and in accordance with the recommendations of a cosmetologist or dermatologist.

Unfortunately, they don’t teach about skin pH in school chemistry lessons. But this information would be much more interesting to students than dry formulas divorced from life. Let's try to fill the gaps in knowledge.

1. What should the skin pH be?
2. What causes skin pH imbalance?
3. What happens if the pH is unbalanced
4. How to restore skin pH
5. Review of cosmetics with pH optimal for skin

What should the skin pH be?

This same pH is also widely known under another name - acid-base balance. The word “balance” conveys harmony, calm and order, which is what we strive for in everything, including skin care.

“Under the influence of internal and external factors, the pH of the skin can change over a fairly wide range, which has a detrimental effect on the quality of the skin.”

Neutral pH is 7.

Anything less than 7 is acidic, and the lower the pH, the higher the acidity.

Anything above 7 is alkaline.

The pH scale looks like a rainbow! Normally, our skin indicator is in the warm green zone. © Getty Images

What causes skin pH imbalance?

chlorinated pool water;

aggressive cleansers (alkaline);

incorrectly selected cosmetics (not according to skin type);

unbalanced diet (trans fats and excess sugar in the diet are manifested by skin rashes).

Even such a healthy activity as swimming disrupts the pH of the skin. Therefore, pool lovers require careful additional skin care. © Getty Images

A cosmetic product with a high pH (alkaline) also increases the pH of the skin and “alkalizes” it. A product with a low pH (acidic), in contact with the skin, lowers its pH.

What happens if the pH is unbalanced

As for human skin, with a dry type and dryness in principle, its pH can drop to 3.5, and with oily skin it can reach a neutral value of 7. The more “acidic” the hydrolipid mantle of the skin, the drier it is. It is no coincidence that almost every product for oily, problem skin contains salicylic acid.

Conversely, dry, “acidic” skin lacks lipids. Its pH is low and it needs additional nutrition and hydration.

It can be argued that any skin problem has something to do with pH imbalance. The following signs indicate violations:

feeling of skin tightness;

excessive dryness and flaking.

An unbalanced skin pH means that our protective mantle cannot cope with the onslaught of external negative factors, cannot resist infections and other adverse factors.

How to restore skin pH

After washing with tap water, and even with soap, neutralize the alkaline effect (the pH of tap water is equal to tonic or lotion. They usually have a more acidic pH (for example, 3), which helps the skin restore balance. That is why they say that after tonic, creams are more work effectively.

“The unbalanced composition of the cleanser changes the PH of the skin, and all the strength of the cream, even the most expensive one, goes to fight tissue stress.”

Use Vichy thermal water, which not only has a neutral pH (7), but also a proven ability to normalize the pH of the skin, even increasing its resistance to external aggressive influences. This occurs due to a certain set of minerals.

Use products with a neutral pH or pH appropriate for your skin type.

Follow a reasonable diet: vegetables, fruits, grains, dairy products are famous for restoring the pH of the skin.

A balanced diet helps maintain skin pH. © Getty Images

Review of cosmetics with pH optimal for skin

There are products for sensitive skin with a pH that is far from neutral.

Facial cream-gel with rose water for dry and sensitive skin, Garnier

“Cleansers based on saponified lipids from shea butter or coconut oil are suitable for all skin types: from the driest and most damaged to oily and comedon-prone.”

Soothing 2-in-1 makeup remover “Gentle care” for sensitive skin, Garnier

Cleanses the skin with oils without drying it out. Even stubborn makeup is removed immediately. Soothes thanks to vitamin B5 and lily extract in the composition. More about the product

Cleansing gel “Absolute tenderness” for dry and sensitive skin, L’Oréal Paris

Cleansing emulsion Nutri:nectar, Shu Uemura

The emulsion oil is suitable for washing dry skin, cleanses and saturates it with antioxidants and omega fatty acids from acai and magnolia berries. More about the product

Biosource Self-Foaming Cleansing Water, Biotherm

The foam not only cleanses, but also cares for sensitive skin, as it contains thermal plankton extract. More about the product

Cleansing toner “Clean Skin” against blackheads and oily shine, Garnier

Tonic “Luxury Nutrition”, L’Oréal Paris

The toner is suitable for any skin type. It contains nourishing rose and camellia (tea) oils, as well as vitamin E. More about the product

Daily gel-serum for skin exposed to aggressive external influences, Mineral 89, Vichy

Moisturizing lotion for dry and very dry skin of the face and body, CeraVe

The product with a light texture is quickly absorbed and moisturizes the skin for 24 hours. Thanks to ceramides, which are an integral part of skin lipids, the hydrolipid mantle is strengthened. More about the product

Double action youth activator concentrate Advanced Génifique Sensitive, Lancôme

As you know, pH is closely related to skin microflora. So the probiotics in the concentrate also contribute to the correct pH balance. More about the product