A little about perfumery

In 2003, at the international symposium on aromacology, organized by the American Perfume Foundation, the main ways of development of this area were identified, and the fundamental differences from aromatherapy were named. It is noted that aromacology, which studies the impact of smell on human mood and behavior, should become a priority direction in perfumery (derived from the Latinperfum - “through smoke”). In this way, scientists are trying to direct the rapid and unsystematic development of perfumery into the mainstream of serious scientific research, and not by chance.

Since the middle of the last century, the chemical industry has made it possible to produce large quantities of cheap aromatic compounds identical to natural ones, which are actively used in the production of food, perfumes, cosmetics, household chemicals, etc. The phrase “flavor identical to natural” warns the consumer that To flavor the product, instead of natural expensive substances, cheap synthetic components are used, which are far from harmless to health.

Synthetic compositions cannot be used for therapeutic purposes. In addition, they can cause a severe allergic reaction. With frequent consumption of food products with artificial flavors, the substances included in their composition are poorly excreted from the body and, accumulating, provoke various undesirable processes that destabilize its normal functioning. Perfumes and household chemicals with synthetic fragrances can cause headaches, dizziness, nausea, itching, depression, fatigue, allergies, irritability and other undesirable consequences.

The use of natural flavors, of course, increases the cost of the final product, but provides high quality and does not harm human health. Creating perfume compositions is a special art that requires extensive knowledge, a keen sense of smell and a sense of harmony. In the hands of a perfumer, scents turn into a tool with the help of which this or that idea is embodied. A well-composed aromatic composition has its beginning (top note, melody), development, culmination (heart, harmonic content) and completion (bottom note, timbre). The smell in it develops gradually, harmoniously. There must be a characteristic note, a center of symmetry of the aroma and a smooth, without jumps, transition between tone and semitone.

The top note is citrus, coriander, tarragon, thyme, lavender; middle - rose, geranium, jasmine, verbena; bottom - sandalwood, oak moss, vetiver. The scents have a minor (vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood) and major (vanillin, jasmine, rose), dark and light tones. Not only the harmony of evaporation is important, but also the duration of the fragrance on human skin under the influence of heat, natural acidity and a specific individual smell. For “compatibility” with humans, perfume compositions, in addition to plant ingredients, include substances of animal origin, which also give “strength” to aromas: musk, amber, civet, beaver stream.

Odors can act as an exalter, a synergist (increasing aroma) or a deodorizer (weakening the aroma). Interestingly, the same substance, depending on the combination, can fix or destroy odor. Thus, the smell of musk is used as an exalter of floral aromas, but it completely disappears if black mustard essential oil or odorless quinine is added to it.

For example, to create the smell of cyclamen(Cyclamenpersicum), from which essential oil is not obtained, it is necessary to “understand” its aroma. It is transparent, a bit reminiscent of lily of the valley, and has a pronounced spicy undertone with a slight earthy note of freshness. As the scent develops, a secondary note with a floral character gradually appears, to which a resinous aroma is added at the end.

R. A. Friedman, a famous Russian perfumer of the first half of the 20th century, composed the smell of cyclamen as follows:

Top note:

1. Hydroxycitronellal - 220 g
2. Artificial rose 50 g
3. Rose oil 10 g
4. Jasmine absolute 10 g
5. Linalool 14 g
6. Amixalicylate - 25 g

Middle note:

1. Cistus resinoid - 12 g
2. Amber musk - 3 g
3. Methylionone - 60 g
4. Iris concrete - 3 g
5. Ylang-ylang oil - 34 g

Bottom note:

1. Styrol acetate - 10 g

Synergist:

1. Musk infusion - 30 g
2. Civet infusion - 40 g

Of course, exquisite perfume compositions are the priority of specialists. At home, you can make a simple mixture of essential oils, knowing their viscosity, volatility and compatibility.

The table below will help you choose the right combinations.